fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

[matt thompson]

I ordered my 3015lf from gooddeals18.com on Monday and it arrived today (NY to SC.) It cost me $145.

How did your drivers come boxed? Mine simply came in a factory box with no packing material. Just the box and the speaker...

 

[Sundogue]

I ordered my 3015lf from gooddeals18.com on Monday and it arrived today (NY to SC.) It cost me $145.

How did your drivers come boxed? Mine simply came in a factory box with no packing material. Just the box and the speaker...

Mine came in just the factory box, but it was inside another box because I ordered a bunch of other hardware with it.

Great price. There are still some places to get some good deals on the 3012LF or 3015LF even if they are higher than before.

Have you built your fEARful yet?

 

[Passinwind]

He's just wiring up a switch to the input hotness jumper -- so I can change it with a switch from .9vrms to 2vrms without having to pop a jumper.

It'll probably be in just a tough aluminum box with all TRS jacks to make it smaller.

We're talking about wiring it to be true bypass (so I can shut it off and have it still pass signal) so I can fool around with using it as a low pass for synthing or some crap if I want.

I think I might see if I can figure out how to write an android app to control it with my phone Haven't done any android programming yet but my java-fu is pretty solid.

Read the threads at DIY Audio and MiniDSP, quite a few people have inquired about hacking their own programs.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

I ordered my 3015lf from gooddeals18.com on Monday and it arrived today (NY to SC.) It cost me $145.

How did your drivers come boxed? Mine simply came in a factory box with no packing material. Just the box and the speaker...

I ordered two a while back, but the two factory boxes were snug tight inside one larger box, but no padding, etc., in the individual driver boxes. I think that's just how they do it.

 

[matt thompson]

Have you built your fEARful yet?

I'm still in the process of building it (I've put a few pics of it up) but its coming together. I've got everything except the hardware so its just a matter of free weekend time. Now I'm just starting to think about additional bracing...

Anyone cutting some add. bracing?

 

[Coolhandjjl]

How are people cutting the 1/2 x .75 notch in the braces? Nibble away at it on a table saw? Seems like these have to be right-on for the braces to lock together properly.

 

[Sundogue]

I'm still in the process of building it (I've put a few pics of it up) but its coming together. I've got everything except the hardware so its just a matter of free weekend time. Now I'm just starting to think about additional bracing...

Anyone cutting some add. bracing?

I added all the additional bracing suggested by greenboy. I didn't want to leave any vibration to chance and have to add later.

 

[Sundogue]

How are people cutting the 1/2 x .75 notch in the braces? Nibble away at it on a table saw? Seems like these have to be right-on for the braces to lock together properly.

I marked it and used my jig saw...and then lots of PL.

 

[greenboy]

How are people cutting the 1/2 x .75 notch in the braces? Nibble away at it on a table saw? Seems like these have to be right-on for the braces to lock together properly.

They don't need to "lock". PL Premium will easily fill it so it can be comfortably roomy. The notches are locational assembly aids to make things come together quicker and assure they placed right. There would be absolutely no strength or quality advantage to them being super tight.

Do make sure the PL Premium is used in sufficient abundance in each notch though.

 

[greenboy]

I added all the additional bracing suggested by greenboy. I didn't want to leave any vibration to chance and have to add later.

Which is an aid once the big wattage gets brought on, but will probably never be noticed in more moderate power circumstances : } ...but as it weighs only a few ounces here or there to do it, I figure why not at least share some additions that make sense.

 

[Sundogue]

Which is an aid once the big wattage gets brought on, but will probably never be noticed in more moderate power circumstances : } ...but as it weighs only a few ounces here or there to do it, I figure why not at least share some additions that make sense.

At first I didn't put much power into it (new speaker and all, plus not really knowing the capabilities of it). Once I did pump a lot into it (Carvin BX1200 bridged for 800 watts), it handled it with ease.

The only thing vibrating were the wheels on my cart, things hanging on walls or lying on desks, etc. On our gig last week the guitarist close to me had his mic (on a little stand) jumping all over the stage like those little plastic football players on that old vibrating electronic football game! Had to tape that sucker down to the stage!

Not sure if the cab would have vibrated without additional bracing or not. All I know is, it didn't with it.

 

[BurningSkies]

At first I didn't put much power into it (new speaker and all, plus not really knowing the capabilities of it). Once I did pump a lot into it (Carvin BX1200 bridged for 800 watts), it handled it with ease.

The only thing vibrating were the wheels on my cart, things hanging on walls or lying on desks, etc. On our gig last week the guitarist close to me had his mic (on a little stand) jumping all over the stage like those little plastic football players on that old vibrating electronic football game! Had to tape that sucker down to the stage!

Not sure if the cab would have vibrated without additional bracing or not. All I know is, it didn't with it.

On Monday I found that I was rattling the SKB rack. Or the Kern. Or the Peavey. I can't figure out which, but I'm also going to guess that by the time the rack starts rattling (its resting on the heavy rubber 'feet' of the 15/6 upside down), The cab is loud enough to mask the sound from 10 feet out.

 

[kringle77]

If you stack a pair of identical 12/6 cabs on top of each other the mids would be roughly 15-20 inches apart vertically but aligned horizontally. This should mess up the vertical dispersion more than having the mids right on top of each other right? The horizontal dispersion should not be effected right?

 

[rpsands]

On Monday I found that I was rattling the SKB rack. Or the Kern. Or the Peavey. I can't figure out which, but I'm also going to guess that by the time the rack starts rattling (its resting on the heavy rubber 'feet' of the 15/6 upside down), The cab is loud enough to mask the sound from 10 feet out.

The top of power amps is like #1 culprit for buzzing/rattling in my experience. Masking tape on the top panel can fix it.

 

[Foz]

also... stick a Popsicle stick or somesuch between the top edge of the opening in the face of the SKB and the top edge of the gear and see if the rattle goes away. I had to add bit of foam in this location on my SKB / fEarful rack.

 

[Sundogue]

On Monday I found that I was rattling the SKB rack. Or the Kern. Or the Peavey. I can't figure out which, but I'm also going to guess that by the time the rack starts rattling (its resting on the heavy rubber 'feet' of the 15/6 upside down), The cab is loud enough to mask the sound from 10 feet out.

Rattles can be hard to locate. At first I found a rattle in my hand cart (that I left the cab on). After the cart was removed, I found that the ball bearings in my dolly wheels were rattling at high volume! I don't notice it on a gig...only at home.

I had a hard time finding a very annoying rattle once when I had it cranked at home...only to find that it was a lamp on my desk...across the room!

These cabs can put out a ton of low end and that can cause vibrations in all kinds of things, including stages. But, like the annoying sounds in my old pickup truck, it can be solved just by turning up louder than the offending rattle.

 

[BurningSkies]

The top of power amps is like #1 culprit for buzzing/rattling in my experience. Masking tape on the top panel can fix it.

also... stick a Popsicle stick or somesuch between the top edge of the opening in the face of the SKB and the top edge of the gear and see if the rattle goes away. I had to add bit of foam in this location on my SKB / fEarful rack.

Rattles can be hard to locate. At first I found a rattle in my hand cart (that I left the cab on). After the cart was removed, I found that the ball bearings in my dolly wheels were rattling at high volume! I don't notice it on a gig...only at home.

I had a hard time finding a very annoying rattle once when I had it cranked at home...only to find that it was a lamp on my desk...across the room!

These cabs can put out a ton of low end and that can cause vibrations in all kinds of things, including stages. But, like the annoying sounds in my old pickup truck, it can be solved just by turning up louder than the offending rattle.

Yeah, I've used these tricks too. I'll get a chance at some point to turn up and play alone instead of in a band setting and figure out what's doing it... I know all the room rattles since I've been playing this rig for a while now (coming up on about a year and a half with the 15/6 and a year on the 15/sub).

It may take a bit because the rack is all new gear, so it could be pre amp, power amp or rack, or it could be pre-against case or pre-against-amp or amp against case.

The setup should be a blast this Friday when we play a benefit for a Sudanese charity in a gymnasium. Last year it was just my 15/6 and it still was enough. This year will be something else.

 

[John D Harris]

If you stack a pair of identical 12/6 cabs on top of each other the mids would be roughly 15-20 inches apart vertically but aligned horizontally. This should mess up the vertical dispersion more than having the mids right on top of each other right? The horizontal dispersion should not be effected right?

You do a mirror-image baffle for the top cab so that the mids (& HF driver if used) are vertically lined-up and a few inches apart.

 

[rpsands]

Read the threads at DIY Audio and MiniDSP, quite a few people have inquired about hacking their own programs.

Didn't know the community was that big, had a chance to glance a little. Looks neat.

How are you using your minidsp?

 

[kringle77]

You do a mirror-image baffle for the top cab so that the mids (& HF driver if used) are vertically lined-up and a few inches apart.

Yeah, I know thats the right way to do it but, if you already had a pair of them, how would your dispersion be effected? Im thinking that just the vertical would be worse.