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fEARful part 13: the bad luck's done, son

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#501
BurningSkies said:
I should like a fEARful stack in high gloss big-flake sparkle chartreuse and magenta. :)

But then, I tend to like stuff that's understated anyway.
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I've always admired how that RastaDingwall just blends in. ;)

I'm going to look into chartreuse and magenta just for you. Maybe a chartreuse background with a huge yellow/magenta yin-yang symbol?

What is a good source for good-quality sparkle paint? And is "big-flake" an actual term when selecting a paint type?
 
#502
smeet said:
I've always admired how that RastaDingwall just blends in. ;)

I'm going to look into chartreuse and magenta just for you. Maybe a chartreuse background with a huge yellow/magenta yin-yang symbol?

What is a good source for good-quality sparkle paint? And is "big-flake" an actual term when selecting a paint type?
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Thanks. I like how my bass doesn't call attention to itself.

There are different types of flake and sizes, depending upon the look you want, 'sparkle' finishes tend to be smaller metal particles, and you can get it in bigger chunks as well. I haven't done any of my own...and its a specialized finish job. Of course, depending on the spray gear, it could jam your gun. I know that sometimes it's applied dry to the finish and then epoxied or poly-ed over.
 
#504
smeet said:
I've always admired how that RastaDingwall just blends in. ;)

I'm going to look into chartreuse and magenta just for you. Maybe a chartreuse background with a huge yellow/magenta yin-yang symbol?

What is a good source for good-quality sparkle paint? And is "big-flake" an actual term when selecting a paint type?
Click to expand...

I'm just going to throw this out there in the hopes you or somebody else will run with it - how about UV reactive paint? If that stuff is too expensive, what about adapting LE88's decoupage idea using black light posters? It wouldn't even have to be cheesy, and you could toggle the [DEL]obnoxiousness[/DEL] subtlety on / off.
 
#505
JdoubleH said:
I'm just going to throw this out there in the hopes you or somebody else will run with it - how about UV reactive paint? If that stuff is too expensive, what about adapting LE88's decoupage idea using black light posters? It wouldn't even have to be cheesy, and you could toggle the [DEL]obnoxiousness[/DEL] subtlety on / off.
Click to expand...

I can't remember where I'd seen it, but I'd seen paint that was clear/muted in "normal" light, but was neon in black light (uv). You could paint your cab and/or baffle with it, and install a UV LED inside behind your grill (or in the port holes) and have your cabinet glow (or throb with the beat).

Someday :) (but it would take a showman to pull it off onstage, without being too tacky)
 
#507
What are you guys doing to isolate and eliminate vibration points in your racks? I am finding that the massive thud from my new rig is shaking things in entirely new ways that I've never had to deal with before! :cool: I'm wondering if I should plan to put the rack to the side for live work simply to reduce shakes and rattles. Curious to hear your thoughts...

Lonnybass
 
#508
Lonnybass said:
What are you guys doing to isolate and eliminate vibration points in your racks? I am finding that the massive thud from my new rig is shaking things in entirely new ways that I've never had to deal with before! :cool: I'm wondering if I should plan to put the rack to the side for live work simply to reduce shakes and rattles.
Click to expand...

That's what I do when using my 15/15/6/1 rigs. The Quicklok WS-540 stand works great for rack gear BTW.
 
#510
No, the racks and power amps can't deal with the acoustic vibration. They resonate with the noise.

Many, many PA power amps have lids that rattle and buzz at certain frequencies. Putting something on top of them in the rack can help. I used to use a squished roll of duct tape in between the top of the rack and the power amp lid :P
 
#512
Dekker said:
I can't remember where I'd seen it, but I'd seen paint that was clear/muted in "normal" light, but was neon in black light (uv). You could paint your cab and/or baffle with it, and install a UV LED inside behind your grill (or in the port holes) and have your cabinet glow (or throb with the beat).

Someday :) (but it would take a showman to pull it off onstage, without being too tacky)
Click to expand...

Just because you could doesn't mean you should(n't)!
 
#513
JdoubleH said:
I'm just going to throw this out there in the hopes you or somebody else will run with it - how about UV reactive paint? If that stuff is too expensive, what about adapting LE88's decoupage idea using black light?
Click to expand...

I used Krylon fluorescent green spray paint over a white base coat on my baffle:

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It is not at all expensive. I bought a can at my local Lowes. It is bright green under normal lighting and BRIGHT GREEN when there's a black light present.
 
#516
How could I use something like this on the outside of the cabinet and make it durable? Should I start with white duratex? Cover it with a transparent protective coat? Hopefully something non-glossy.


scottbass said:
I used Krylon fluorescent green spray paint over a white base coat on my baffle:
I
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It is not at all expensive. I bought a can at my local Lowes. It is bright green under normal lighting and BRIGHT GREEN when there's a black light present.
Click to expand...
 
#517
I recently got two of the big, surface mount Penn-Elcom butterfly latches to connect my two 15/6s as I think they were buzzing between each-other slightly before.

I long ago gave up on keeping either of my amps on top of the fearful stack. Lifting 65+ pounds 6 feet up isn't fun.
 
#518
Nightlyraider said:
I recently got two of the big, surface mount Penn-Elcom butterfly latches to connect my two 15/6s as I think they were buzzing between each-other slightly before.

I long ago gave up on keeping either of my amps on top of the fearful stack. Lifting 65+ pounds 6 feet up isn't fun.
Click to expand...

You could always run them on their sides like Scogman is demonstrating.
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#519
smeet said:
How could I use something like this on the outside of the cabinet and make it durable? Should I start with white duratex? Cover it with a transparent protective coat? Hopefully something non-glossy.
Click to expand...

You could look into custom-tint Duratex, like Bardley used. Seems I've also read of people tinting Duratex at their local paint store. Either way, doubt it'd be fluorescent.

If you used a spray can, you'd probably want to go over it with a clear finish for durability; polyurethane or acrylic, depending on compatibility with the paint. If you wanted texture, you'd probably want to apply that first, and it would have to be compatible with the spray paint.
 
#520
1n3 said:
If you used a spray can, you'd probably want to go over it with a clear finish for durability; polyurethane or acrylic, depending on compatibility with the paint. If you wanted texture, you'd probably want to apply that first, and it would have to be compatible with the spray paint.
Click to expand...

Just make sure your clear coat does NOT have a UV inhibitor in it! If it did, it would defeat the purpose of the fluorescent paint!

Dekker
 
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