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fEARful part nine (9)

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#222
rpsands said:
I have some serious doubts about the 3FE20 taking enough watts to keep up with the 10. Chances are very good the 3010LF will be capable of taking 300 watts + - which would very possibly melt an unpadded 20 watt midrange (even crossed over fairly high).
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That makes sense to me. However, what do you think about using a pair of 3FE20s? The price would be very competitive, and effective power handling (relative to the woofer) would roughly quadruple to 80 watts if my arithmetic is correct. Assuming a 2 kHz crossover, that should be more than adequate for bass guitar... this based on the power distribution guidelines greenboy communicated to me.

The advantage of a pair of 3FE20's is, you'd get good treble extension without having to add a tweeter. Several configurations are possible, including rolling off the top end of one of the 3FE20's while allowing the other to run fullrange. This would give you some top end but not too much (sort of like if you had a tweeter but it was turned down a couple of clicks), along with the superior dispersion of a single high frequency source. In this scenario, it might be practical to place the two 3FE20's side-by-side which would keep the cabinet from growing too tall while still maintaining good dispersion in the horizontal plane, assuming the one's top end was rolled off low enough. Not absolutely sure about this yet; just talking off the top of my head, as I've never actually tried it.

greenboy said:
It could be ages before 3010LF is actually available. Maybe a year.
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That is consistent with what I was told by Eminence this past Tuesday. And obviously the fEarful 10/X can't be designed until the designer gets his hands on the 10.

The good news is, my source indicated that offering the 4 ohm version as a regular catalog item is indeed part of the game plan.
 
#223
How many people are bi-amping? I have a Mesa Boogie Strategy 400 Stereo tube power amp. I also picked up a Rane active crossover for cheap. I was considering building my 15/6 w/o crossovers, with raw driver connections on the rear. I could run one or two cabs with one channel for the 3015's, and the other channel for the 6ND410's. But then the channel for the mid drivers would be powered quite low, wonder if that would be hard on the power amp? Or if that's not enough power, I could run the woofers via my Eden WT405's solid state power amp section, has 450~650 watts, and power the midrange drivers via my Fender Bassman's 300 tube power amp section. (Don't have a pre-amp selected yet. Could be either the SS pre on my Eden, the tube pre on my Bassman, or a dedicated tube pre.)
 
#225
DukeLeJeune said:
That makes sense to me. However, what do you think about using a pair of 3FE20s? The price would be very competitive, and effective power handling (relative to the woofer) would roughly quadruple to 80 watts if my arithmetic is correct. Assuming a 2 kHz crossover, that should be more than adequate for bass guitar... this based on the power distribution guidelines greenboy communicated to me.

The advantage of a pair of 3FE20's is, you'd get good treble extension without having to add a tweeter. Several configurations are possible, including rolling off the top end of one of the 3FE20's while allowing the other to run fullrange. This would give you some top end but not too much (sort of like if you had a tweeter but it was turned down a couple of clicks), along with the superior dispersion of a single high frequency source. In this scenario, it might be practical to place the two 3FE20's side-by-side which would keep the cabinet from growing too tall while still maintaining good dispersion in the horizontal plane, assuming the one's top end was rolled off low enough. Not absolutely sure about this yet; just talking off the top of my head, as I've never actually tried it.
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I'm not sure I am convinced that the FE20s would be sufficient to handle distortion. Maybe. Pretty close to the thermal envelope of the unpadded Alpha 6 vs the 3012LF I guess. But not quite with envelope of the 6nd410.

I'm guessing since you could cross it over a lot higher it'd be safer though.

The only worry I have is distortion though, not the normal use. When you crank up the dirt. It might be worth, if you were to do a cab like this, doing a melt-it test on the FE20s - crank up the dirt and scope it.

One thing worth noting is at 2khz, I believe you could design a protection circuit. The wattages we're talking about are not excessively high.
 
#226
Coolhandjjl said:
How many people are bi-amping?
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I do sometimes at home just because I like different flavors so much. I definitely would if I were playing any gigs that warranted hauling my 1515/6/1 rig. Other than that, I mostly use biamping for the R&D phase of cab development -- it's invaluable for that IME.

BTW, a tube amp through just the 6, with SS power to the lows, sounds wonderful to my ears.
 
#228
How many people are bi-amping?
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I have done it on both a 15/6 and a 1515/66 - worth the time to investigate IMO if convenient cause you'll learn a lot about the cab/speaker system and its voicing - but in the end I'm back to using the GB'sCBG/LeJeune xovers simply because it works more than good enough to get me in the zone where preamp EQ twiddling gets me where I wanna go and using the xover makes for less crap to haul around [only need one amp].

YMMV but my $0.2 for a first time fEarful builder is load the xover, get a large power amp and some kind of front end preamp with a versatile EQ = simple + effective. Save the dinking around with biamping until you run out of productive/necessary things to do.*

*I personally never take advice like this - life would be to easy.
 
#230
Passinwind said:
C'mon Bro, everyone knows more knobs = more tone ! :p
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+1 ;)

ISA430MKII-xti-JR.jpg
 
#232
Passinwind said:
I do sometimes at home just because I like different flavors so much. I definitely would if I were playing any gigs that warranted hauling my 1515/6/1 rig. Other than that, I mostly use biamping for the R&D phase of cab development -- it's invaluable for that IME.

BTW, a tube amp through just the 6, with SS power to the lows, sounds wonderful to my ears.
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Thanks Charlie! Gives me a nice place to start.
 
#234
I'm ordering the parts for the CBG crossover & L-pad for the 15/6. I received an email from Parts Connexion saying that the two 40.0O Mills 50w 1% Non-Inductive Resistors were out of stock. Is there anyway I can use any other resistor values to replace these. The other three resistors (the 7.5O Mills 50w 1% Non-Inductive Resistors) are in stock.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
#235
Jc575 said:
I'm ordering the parts for the CBG crossover & L-pad for the 15/6. I received an email from Parts Connexion saying that the two 40.0O Mills 50w 1% Non-Inductive Resistors were out of stock. Is there anyway I can use any other resistor values to replace these. The other three resistors (the 7.5O Mills 50w 1% Non-Inductive Resistors) are in stock.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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I see that greenboy is currently re-doing the Wiki on his own website. Those Mills resistors are no longer what he is spec'ing, or at least that was my impression the last time I talked to him about it. A couple of 25 watt cast sand types should work fine. You could also use two 10 ohm resistors in series rather than two 40 ohm ones in parallel if you still want to use the pretty Mills ones.
 
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