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fEARful part nine (9)

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Speaking of L Pads. I'm going to be installing drivers hopefully next week. I was wondering if the variable L Pad should be turned down to get a flat response from the cab. If so by how much?

Thanks
 
Long time watcher, first time poster.

I'm seriously looking at building a fEarful 12/6 to compliment my 210. If anyone has built one could you tell me how long it took, what tools you needed besides a power drill, soldering iron, and hammer, and how much it cost it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Long time watcher, first time poster.

I'm seriously looking at building a fEarful 12/6 to compliment my 210. If anyone has built one could you tell me how long it took, what tools you needed besides a power drill, soldering iron, and hammer, and how much it cost it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Well if you wait a little bit longer, you'll be able to order pre-cut wood for the cabinet from speakerhardware.com Otherwise you will want at the bare minimum a circular saw, though a radial arm saw or table saw would be far better. Also a jig saw, scroll saw, or router for cutting the holes.

Apart from the cutting, all you really need is glue, some clamps, and patience.

For raw ingredients, you're looking at about $450 and up.

Also, the 12/6 fEarful will walk all over your average 210; so you could think of this more as building a replacement to your current cab.
 
I have about $350 invested in my 12/6. But...
I used an Alpha instead of an AlphaLite or 18 Sound mid driver.
I used plain pine plywood instead of Baltic Birch.
I used 1/4" grid screen that I had on hand for grill material.
I used fiberglass batts that I had on hand for damping material.

I agree with Nightlyraider. You'll no longer need the 210. My Acme B2 went on Craigslist the morning after my first gig with the fERAful.
 
Long time watcher, first time poster.

I'm seriously looking at building a fEarful 12/6 to compliment my 210. If anyone has built one could you tell me how long it took, what tools you needed besides a power drill, soldering iron, and hammer, and how much it cost it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I built my 12/6 mainly with a jigsaw, drill, lots of PL Premium, sandpaper & spray paint. It was a 1st try that works & sounds great. However I will do another in the spring at a friends garage with proper tools so that it will come out perfect. I agree with the other, your 2x10 will be either for sale or a backup after you play a fEarful. Good luck!
 
I used a table saw with a plywood blade, router with a 1/4" and a 1/4" roundover, jig saw, lots of clamps, a few weights during gluing, drill press, allen wrench, battery powered drill for shooting pilot holes and screws in, big a$$ file, framing square, tape measure, staple gun, sander, paint brush and roller. And, soldering iron, wire stripper and a nut driver and a pair of Philips screwdrivers.

With that arsenal all on hand, I had the cabinet done in less than 20 hours. I'd likely have the next one done in well under twelve hours.

I did get fancy and did things like route the cutouts for the handles just deep enough for them to fit flush.

The only thing I'd do different is to borrow a bunch of bar clamps from one of the guys I work with.

All my other cabinets are posted in gear for sale.
 
Harbor Freight for bar clamps, sorry to say, but the cheap sh## from China works every bit as well as more expensive ones, and if one should slip, they'll take em back.

Super cheap router will do for the round over and hole cutting, make yourself a trammel jig out of scrap plywood.

Jig saw or skill saw with a straight edge guide and your handy Harbor Freight clamps, again made from scrap plywood.

Basic hand tools and a good tape measure and square.

I'm ready to sell the TL-606's with 3015's, or part them out. Other cabs don't even come close.

I brought the 15/6/1 in for under $500.
 
Getting ready to spray Duratex.
 

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Getting ready to spray Duratex.

Looking good from what I can see. If you're going to spray, you're going to get overspray all over that plastic sheet...or is that the idea? Looks like you're framing out a room. I'm curious as to spray vs. roller Duratex. Most here roll it on as few people have air tools. Fewer have a spray gun they can dedicate to Duratex. I'd imagine one you spray Duratex, that gun is pretty much ruined, no?
 
I don't know about that, the stuff cleans up easily with soap and water. I'd like to hear how it goes spraying, I think my drywall texture sprayer might put a pretty nice splatter on.

I'm interested to know if high velocity airless pumps work better than a low pressure system, like an HVLP gun.

Good luck with the spray job.
 
Duratex is similar to latex paint. I have a Graco TrueCoat hand held airless sprayer that sprays latex paint without having to thin it. I bought for a home improvement project.

I talked to Dan Hittenberger at Acry-Tech and he said it should work just fine.

The plastic is my spray booth.
 
This what I'm going to use. Dan said Duratex should clean up like latex paint. So after I'm done spraying I'll just run water through just like I would after I'm done painting.
 

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Duratex is similar to latex paint. I have a Graco TrueCoat hand held airless sprayer that sprays latex paint without having to thin it. I bought for a home improvement project.

I talked to Dan Hittenberger at Acry-Tech and he said it should work just fine.

The plastic is my spray booth.

You obviously know what you're doing...hell, you have a spray booth. I put newspaper on the floor in the hallway of my building and hope the neighbor kids don't run by while I'm spraying. That's MY "spray booth." LOL!

I have no idea about the Graco TrueCoat sprayer, but it sounds expensive. I'm glad to hear the stuff washes off with water; I guess you've got to get it while it's still wet. I own a compressor and a ton of air tools, but no sprayer. New territory for me.

Good luck and post lots of pics!
 
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