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fEARful part nine (9)

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mikeddd said:
Looks great, WCunha! Hope the assembly goes smoothly for you. What are you planning for grills?

Thanks!

I'm not sure yet. I really don't gig that much and I really built them for a fun project. So they'll be at my house right now so no grills for now.

I'm thinking I might go with the grills with the round holes or I might see what a local metal shop has for expanded metal mesh.
 
IMO you really should protect those expensive drivers. I baby all my gear but I have the grace of a drunken rhinoceros. If there's any chance of my foot somehow kicking something or a dropped tool bouncing into a cone, it will happen to me. "Only you can prevent forest fires!" Cover those puppies.
 
I'd like to thank Greenboy for his generous contribution to all of us! I have really enjoyed this thread and I have a pretty good grip on the need for a nice even dispersion pattern over frequency.

However, I find my self always playing with the treble pot on my flat strung Fender P5 rolled most of the way off. I like my tone to range from Dub to an over driven rock sound with a little bit of distortion every now and then. Which leads me to the question:

Can a just use a full range 15sub?

I figure I will save the weight and cost of a cross-over and still be able to provide a really solid foundation sound for the band. I know a lot of people use the regular Kappalite 3015 for this purpose, but I'd like to maintain the amazing low end output of the 3015LF.

Any thought are greatly appreciated. Especially if you have actually tried this.

Thanks!
 
I'd like to thank Greenboy for his generous contribution to all of us! I have really enjoyed this thread and I have a pretty good grip on the need for a nice even dispersion pattern over frequency.

However, I find my self always playing with the treble pot on my flat strung Fender P5 rolled most of the way off. I like my tone to range from Dub to an over driven rock sound with a little bit of distortion every now and then. Which leads me to the question:

Can a just use a full range 15sub?

I figure I will save the weight and cost of a cross-over and still be able to provide a really solid foundation sound for the band. I know a lot of people use the regular Kappalite 3015 for this purpose, but I'd like to maintain the amazing low end output of the 3015LF.

Any thought are greatly appreciated. Especially if you have actually tried this.

Thanks!

Replied to your PM and to your other thread...

I really don't think you want to go full range with the 3015LF. It gets ugly in the 1K range...
 
Thanks!

I'm not sure yet. I really don't gig that much and I really built them for a fun project. So they'll be at my house right now so no grills for now.

I'm thinking I might go with the grills with the round holes or I might see what a local metal shop has for expanded metal mesh.

Reliable has really nice grills and last time I ordered provided a nifty standoff kit. It was very reasonably priced and looks 'pro'.

IMO you really should protect those expensive drivers. I baby all my gear but I have the grace of a drunken rhinoceros. If there's any chance of my foot somehow kicking something or a dropped tool bouncing into a cone, it will happen to me. "Only you can prevent forest fires!" Cover those puppies.

That!

I'd like to thank Greenboy for his generous contribution to all of us! I have really enjoyed this thread and I have a pretty good grip on the need for a nice even dispersion pattern over frequency.

However, I find my self always playing with the treble pot on my flat strung Fender P5 rolled most of the way off. I like my tone to range from Dub to an over driven rock sound with a little bit of distortion every now and then. Which leads me to the question:

Can a just use a full range 15sub?

I figure I will save the weight and cost of a cross-over and still be able to provide a really solid foundation sound for the band. I know a lot of people use the regular Kappalite 3015 for this purpose, but I'd like to maintain the amazing low end output of the 3015LF.

Any thought are greatly appreciated. Especially if you have actually tried this.

Thanks!

I've played through the 12 sub and it's is interesting. It sounds sort of like recorded dub bass. Or a bass tone that is heavily filtered in the high end. IMO - It would suck on stage as live you need some mid's to cut through and provide note definition. Otherwise you sound like elephants mating in the next room...

You might need less mid's than a lot of people. I don't need as much mid to get happy.. Use the Alpha for cost savings though I would splurge on the AlphaLite for weight savings (it is what is in my 12.6). Mine is padded back an additional 6db using a fixed resistor network that Passinwind has on the shelf. That and the CBG crossover.

For my taste, there is enough mid in there to handle the 12.6 when it is sitting on the 12 sub.

FWIW - right before I built my first 12.6, I built a nice compact 1x15 to house a 3015. Came out fine and I was pretty happy with it tonally though I had to monkey around in the upper mid's to calm it down. Then I hosted a little get together in my garage. Passinwind brought his 12.6 and I started accumulating the bit's and pieces within the week... It was just so much better at everything than any of the other cab's. We had I think 4 cab's there. Most were bare 1x15's of various designs. Mine, purpose built for a 3015, a modded TL606 with a 3015 from Singlemalt and a large volume cab with an EV in it from Koobie. The 12.6 just blew them away ...

If tools, space and woodworking skills are an issue, then you might be better off with the Avatar 3 way 'TB' cab. Last time I looked, that cab was about the cost of the parts for a 15.6.1, maybe less. Is it the same performance wise ? probably not there will be compromises for sure but from what I read, it's way better than most everything else you could purchase with similar dough.
 
Thanks 4Mal

Great info there. If only that Avatar was in the low 50lb range I'd be all over it. I really like the 40lb weight of my Schroeder 1515L. The sound is sometimes great and sometimes not, it really depends on the band. I'd love a cab that sounds good when the band is cranking and good when its just me and the singer. The schroeder sounds great when the band is all locked in, but kind of Ugly when the drums and piano drop out.
 
4Mal when you played your 12 sub alone, did it have the low pass cross-over? I notice your 3015 single speaker required you to "calm down" the mid range. Maybe the 3015LF will already have a quieter mid range..........I know I'm reaching here.
 
4Mal when you played your 12 sub alone, did it have the low pass cross-over? I notice your 3015 single speaker required you to "calm down" the mid range. Maybe the 3015LF will already have a quieter mid range..........I know I'm reaching here.


3015LF:
kappalite3015LF-g-size495.gif



3012LF:

kappalite3012lf-freq-size54.gif


3015:

kappalite3015-g-size495.gif


All unloaded, of course... but you'll see that the 3015LF and the 3012LF are very similar, minus the sensitivity.
 
Yes. Very different impedance curves.
The problem with lpads on mids is power handling. The lpads in fEARfuls are on hf sections. Mids are padded by adding/subtracting resistors.

Hey Leland,

The 'word on the street' (you know, the cabinet building underground), is that the flat-pack 'cut kit' fEarful cabinets are pretty close to being ready to ship. Can you confirm or deny this? Also, I've heard that you may be taking orders for fEarful cabinets in varying amounts of completeness? Is that true or complete rumor-milling? If you are providing partially/mostly/fully done cabinets, what does that entail in terms of what the end consumer is getting?
 
Minor issue, but it might cause problems for some users. I assume talkbass runs on a unix machine, because it's URLS are case sensitive. So, when Greenboy went through the trouble of providing a FAQ and then linking to it from his webpage, it was exactly the right letters in the link, but the case was wrong (needs to be http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful_FAQ, whereas the link on his webpage reads http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful_FAQ)

Normally I'd send a PM on this, but that wasn't possible, so I figured this'd be the best way to let him know (and to let others looking for the FAQ know too).
 
I'm using PL for all the glueing, but I still have some tiny gaps. Should I use more PL (it doesnt really expand that much) or just use some type of foam?

More PL. Its structurally stronger than any foam, and it does expand/set well. Did you check out Greenboy's tips on applying it to the inside seams of your cab? They can be found here:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Here's the illustration on how to apply to seams. I also used a plastic butter knife as well as my fingers, for those hard to reach spots:

Fillet.png
 
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