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Fender Bassman 100T - chapter 2

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Just got my 100t and 410 neo cab home!

Bought it second hand, hardly used. Think I got a good deal.

This amp and cab is so far all I could have hoped for, and then some. I have played it for about an hour now and still got that huge smile. It's just lovely and very versatile. Right now I don't miss my Hiwatt at all.

A quick question (instead of reading through all the pages in these two threads): in the automatic bias 1a and 1b goes from green to orange to green all the time (some times also red on 1a and then back to green), but 2a and 2b always blinks on green. Should I worry about the orange/red?
 
Mine all stay on solid green once I have switched out of standby and started playing. If you did not get an owner's manual with yours download one from the Fender site, it will provide you with the necessary information.
 
Just got my 100t and 410 neo cab home!

Bought it second hand, hardly used. Think I got a good deal.

This amp and cab is so far all I could have hoped for, and then some. I have played it for about an hour now and still got that huge smile. It's just lovely and very versatile. Right now I don't miss my Hiwatt at all.

A quick question (instead of reading through all the pages in these two threads): in the automatic bias 1a and 1b goes from green to orange to green all the time (some times also red on 1a and then back to green), but 2a and 2b always blinks on green. Should I worry about the orange/red?

You might try swapping 2a and 2b with 1a and 1b and see if the auto bias lights do the same thing. Might help decide if it's tube related or in the bias control circuit. Always a good idea to have a tech check out any tube amp purchased used whether almost new or not. Can't hurt to be safe.
 
I hear you, Freight Train. I am overseas and neither my 100T nor SB300 have experienced any bias problems at all, despite regular use for over a year now. I would be interested to know how major a problem it has been - I suspect a very small percentage of total sales (although of course none would be preferable). The vast majority of us seem to have no problem and hopefully the issue has been fixed at the QC end by now.
 
Which part of NZ are you in? I'd be interested in trying one out too, but I doubt there will be a 100T in my local Rockshop for a very, very long time.
Rickenbacker? Big tick there :)
What sort of Holden head do you have?

Nice to see someone rocking a Jansen on TB! I'm based in Auckland.

Currently rocking a '77 4001 (azureglo) into a Holden 100 and Sunn 200S cab loaded with JBL K140s. Possibly the most mids-aggressive tone ever - nothing sounds as attacky and aggressive as a Holden! I've had it modded by Ryan at the Amp Shop and it sounds rad - new Sovtek KT88s and lower-gain pre-tubes (rather than all 12AX7s). It blew up again recently though, haha - might need a full recap.

Debating whether to shell out the cash to fix'er up completely or invest in a newer head like the 100T.
 
Hi Niff, I used to play Holden heads into K140s back in the seventies when they were all the rage. Kiwi legends! It is a long time since I have played one, but going on memory the Bassman 100T is far more defined than the Holden amps I used. Mind you, the cabinets I use now are also way ahead of those days too. Cheers, Tim
 
My super bassman is in the shop on the bench and communications are going back and forth with Fender according to the shop.
At least one TB member told me Fender shipped a "reset" board for his auto bias, which cured his problem.
You need the original sales receipt signed over to you by the original owner, when you take it to the authorized repair facility. Fender honors the 5 year warranty "if" you have that signed receipt from the retailer. Get with the guy you bought it from if he did not sign over the original receipt to you. He could even get a copy from the retailer if he can't find it. Fender pays the authorized repair facility.
Go to Fender.com for repair facilities search near you.
Pain in the but a nice warranty nonetheless;)
I did one tube swap to prove it was their auto bias circuitry and not a bad tube. I imagine my shop is doing the same.
And like you I will end up with a good deal after some inconvenience, (I hope)
 
So embarrassing!

The amp is perfectly ok now. After I got it home I did give the tubes the tiny push to make sure they were properly in place, but obviously I didn't do it well enough. After another go now it's all perfect again!
But: it was already a very tight fit. I couldn't see a difference even when looking closely. I'll keep that in mind if the bias runs mad again.

I have to say that this rig is the best I've ever had. Thanks alot to Freight_Train and all you others guys who convinced me. I play p basses with thick flats and I don't think I could be any happier with the sound. It's one of these toys that does everything you want it to do!
 
Nice to see someone rocking a Jansen on TB!
Ta da! I think I'm the only one here so far...
I've had it for ages and it has been really reliable. Some caps farted out many moons ago and the phase splitter has just needed some repair.
My 4001 is a rubyglo from 1981.
Currently rocking a '77 4001 (azureglo) into a Holden 100 and Sunn 200S cab loaded with JBL K140s. Possibly the most mids-aggressive tone ever - nothing sounds as attacky and aggressive as a Holden! I've had it modded by Ryan at the Amp Shop and it sounds rad - new Sovtek KT88s and lower-gain pre-tubes (rather than all 12AX7s). It blew up again recently though, haha - might need a full recap.
Despite growing up in ChCh I've never played bass through a Holden. You'll have to record your tone for me to listen to :)
Debating whether to shell out the cash to fix'er up completely or invest in a newer head like the 100T.
Yes, I know exactly where you are coming from. Always a trade-off between 'not fixing what ain't broken' and keeping more originality and a complete rebuild for (probably) better reliability.
My tech cheerfully reminds me that he can rebuild an old amp completely and a transformer could go pop anyway...

Having said that, the RRP for a 100T is NZ$2,999 vs a rebuild of our old stuff for $500-600 or so (unless a transformer does go pop)
 
Suggest you try a 100T first if you can then make your call, Webmonster. Having owned both Holdens and Jansens in the past I can assure you that the 100T is a totally different beast. Certainly much more clean grunt than the old Jansen 75s and 100s and way, way more versatile. That said, it may not be for you but you won't know unless you try one out. :D
 
I've noticed that the led lights go orange in stand by mode after playing for a while. Then when I turn off the stand by mode and start playing again they all become solid green again after a minute or so of blinking.

Is this normal? Or do I need to have my amp checked?
 
Suggest you try a 100T first if you can then make your call, Webmonster. Having owned both Holdens and Jansens in the past I can assure you that the 100T is a totally different beast. Certainly much more clean grunt than the old Jansen 75s and 100s and way, way more versatile. That said, it may not be for you but you won't know unless you try one out. :D
I am looking forward to trying one out one day - with so many good reviews there must be something very 'right' about them!

I can certainly imagine lots more clean grunt - My Jansen must be working the two 7027A's (effectively 6L6's) very hard to get 75W. Add to that 40-ish years of R&D and new in-spec parts, new transformers etc.

Although I enjoy the simplicity and old-school tone of old gear I can see the 100T has the sort of 'ethic' I like about amps. Bass, Mid & Treble and volume controls. Simple & effective and two channels for instantly different tone-stacks.
Really very smart thinking!
 
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