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Fender Custom Shop Club

I don't like his method at all. The sand paper would be OK if you want to remove the nitro, but the Scotchbrite (I used Ace Hardware brand too; same thing) only buffs it to satin and doesn't remove much, if any, of the nitro. I would definitely stay away from steel wool. As I said, I like the NOS look and the Scrotchbrit allows the gloss to return while still making the neck very fast. IMHO If you do a search, you can find several threads on sticky necks.

So how would you recommend removing the finish from the back of a neck?

I have a ‘60s Hot Rod Precision neck, and the back is quite sticky and it feels like there’s a heavy gloss on it as well as the maple has been tinted. I’d like to remove all that and get it down to the wood.
 
So how would you recommend removing the finish from the back of a neck?

I have a ‘60s Hot Rod Precision neck, and the back is quite sticky and it feels like there’s a heavy gloss on it as well as the maple has been tinted. I’d like to remove all that and get it down to the wood.

The Scrotchbrite will eventually remove the Nitro if you "sand" it long enough. It also comes in several grades of coarseness, so you could start with a heavier grade. Try it with the light stuff first; you might be pleasantly surprised at how fast it is while still being protected. If you go down to bare wood, there won't be any protection for it. I'm certainly no expert on this stuff, but I'm not sure it would be good to leave it unprotected. Although, a lot of the vintage basses that have been used for years and years have been worn down to bare wood, I guess. As far as the tint, I guess it's the Nitro that is tinted, so I suppose that would come off with the Nitro finish. Again, I'm just guessing on this stuff. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
Here's a video from Scott's Bass Lessons where he discusses how and what to use with sanding the gloss from a neck to make it faster. Not sure I agree with the steel wool part. I have been thinking about doing this to my CS '64 Precision Relic. What I don't understand is while my CS '64 Precision and CS '64 Jazz are both "Relics", the back of the neck is fully "glossed" and has no "wear". Does the CS only sand the neck to mimic wear on "heavy" relics?


Yeah I saw that video. I'm going to try the wax thing first and see. I'd rather not remove the nitro completely.
 
Oops, I should clarify; I don't use the wax on the back of the neck (although, you could, but not on the fingerboard, of course). I only use the wax on the body.
Well the body on mine is a bit sticky too. I know not to use on the finger board, but I've read elsewhere that the virtuoso polish can help harden up the nitro so I thought I'd try it on the back of the neck also...will report back here soon...
 
The Scrotchbrite will eventually remove the Nitro if you "sand" it long enough. It also comes in several grades of coarseness, so you could start with a heavier grade. Try it with the light stuff first; you might be pleasantly surprised at how fast it is while still being protected. If you go down to bare wood, there won't be any protection for it. I'm certainly no expert on this stuff, but I'm not sure it would be good to leave it unprotected. Although, a lot of the vintage basses that have been used for years and years have been worn down to bare wood, I guess. As far as the tint, I guess it's the Nitro that is tinted, so I suppose that would come off with the Nitro finish. Again, I'm just guessing on this stuff. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Like a Scotchbrite pad?

I used some 600 grit sandpaper today. It feels better, very smooth. But we’ll see how it feels as time goes by and it gets played.
 
Here's a video from Scott's Bass Lessons where he discusses how and what to use with sanding the gloss from a neck to make it faster. Not sure I agree with the steel wool part. I have been thinking about doing this to my CS '64 Precision Relic. What I don't understand is while my CS '64 Precision and CS '64 Jazz are both "Relics", the back of the neck is fully "glossed" and has no "wear". Does the CS only sand the neck to mimic wear on "heavy" relics?


I love that he still has that FCS P....he sounds soooo good playing it...anyway, from what I understand, they won’t touch the neck gloss unless you specifically ask them, unless it’s on a heavy relic trim...I think they do it for the journeyman trim as well..
 
So here it is. 2004 custom classic in spring theme :)

A35D50AE-AB54-43ED-ADB9-3621F5C1FB4E.jpeg 0BE8E531-346D-477F-BCC0-3CE5AA2CDC42.jpeg
 
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Quick question to my fellow CS owners. I have a 2010 CS Custom Classic Jazz IV Special that I bought brand new from Sweetwater back in the day. I absolutely love the bass. However, the one thing that has bothered me over the years as I've gigged with it, is the fact that the preamp is active all of the time. There isn't an active/passive switch of any kind. I noticed on the new American Elite Jazz basses that they pretty much have the same exact 18V 3-band preamp that my CS does, except it does have an active/passive switch. I would love to be able to swap out the preamp on my CS with one of those preamps, so I have the ability to go passive for more tone shaping abilities and to also have a failsafe in case the batteries crap out on me mid-show (That has happened and I had a backup bass fortunately. Changing the batteries is not a quick feat as you need a small screwdriver).

Anyone know how to get just the preamp that's used in the American Elite Series Jazz or have any other suggestions?

Thanks!
 
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Quick question to my fellow CS owners. I have a 2010 CS Custom Classic Jazz IV Special that I bought brand new from Sweetwater back in the day. I absolutely love the bass. However, the one thing that has bothered me over the years as I've gigged with it, is the fact that the preamp is active all of the time. There isn't an active/passive switch of any kind. I noticed on the new American Elite Jazz basses that they pretty much have the same exact 18V 3-band preamp that my CS does, except it does have an active/passive switch. I would love to be able to swap out the preamp on my CS with one of those preamps, so I have the ability to go passive for more tone shaping abilities and to also have a failsafe in case the batteries crap out on me mid-show (That has happened and I had a backup bass fortunately. Changing the batteries is not a quick feat as you need a small screwdriver).

Anyone know how to get just the preamp that's used in the American Elite Series Jazz or have any other suggestions?

Thanks!

There is one US deluxe preamp for sale just now locally in Czech Rep, which does not help you a lot I am sure, but it costs about 90usd to give you used market price idea. Good luck.

Btw anyone knows if there is a change of sound with these as well?

6F249D88-DCED-4072-908E-968EF462824E.jpeg
 
Quick question to my fellow CS owners. I have a 2010 CS Custom Classic Jazz IV Special that I bought brand new from Sweetwater back in the day. I absolutely love the bass. However, the one thing that has bothered me over the years as I've gigged with it, is the fact that the preamp is active all of the time. There isn't an active/passive switch of any kind. I noticed on the new American Elite Jazz basses that they pretty much have the same exact 18V 3-band preamp that my CS does, except it does have an active/passive switch. I would love to be able to swap out the preamp on my CS with one of those preamps, so I have the ability to go passive for more tone shaping abilities and to also have a failsafe in case the batteries crap out on me mid-show (That has happened and I had a backup bass fortunately. Changing the batteries is not a quick feat as you need a small screwdriver).

Anyone know how to get just the preamp that's used in the American Elite Series Jazz or have any other suggestions?

Thanks!
Funny I was looking for the same thing for a non CS Jazz that I had. I ended up finding a 2013 Fender Select Jazz Bass at GC that has the active/passive switch. More expensive then then just the p/u by themselves, but I like the Fender Select basses with the Quartersawn necks. Did a few A/B test at the store w/ my CS to make sure I wanted to splurge on another bass. I ended up buying it lol.
IMG_4759.JPG
IMG_7794.JPG
 
Funny I was looking for the same thing for a non CS Jazz that I had. I ended up finding a 2013 Fender Select Jazz Bass at GC that has the active/passive switch. More expensive then then just the p/u by themselves, but I like the Fender Select basses with the Quartersawn necks. Did a few A/B test at the store w/ my CS to make sure I wanted to splurge on another bass. I ended up buying it lol.
View attachment 3015152 View attachment 3015153

Sweet bass! Yeah, I just have so many other basses I don't want to add another one just because it has the active/passive switch. I love everything about my CS except for the fact that it doesn't have that feature. If it had that little switch, it'd be perfect IMO. Here's a pic of it.....
20150217_19164401.jpg
 
Sweet bass! Yeah, I just have so many other basses I don't want to add another one just because it has the active/passive switch. I love everything about my CS except for the fact that it doesn't have that feature. If it had that little switch, it'd be perfect IMO. Here's a pic of it.....
View attachment 3016575
Very nice, it looks a lot like the select jazz bass. I’m pretty sure if you can find the electronics for the elite or the select bass, they would fit perfectly in the bracket for the plate that you’re ready have.
 
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