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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by mrpackerguy, Jan 30, 2009.
Generally V000001 to V015xxx's
I gotta see more neck pocket V00 stickers. There has to be some historical relation or significance versus neck plates going on. Some master list or insider knowledge.
I've seen a few Strats and one Tele with stickers that match the neck plates but nothing else.
There has to be something out there.
Fullerton reissue serial numbers run into the high V16000s. The numbering was very random with V00*** even spotted on 1985/86 models. The very first numbers are actually on Corona models which were specially gifted to known players and their relatives.
V000XXX - V016XXX
Fullerton VS friends...I need some advise please...
As I mentioned up-thread, I recently purchased what I believe is a 1983 Fullerton VS '62 P. I've taken the neck off and removed the pickups to see the date stamps. I posted the photos of those a week or so ago. The neck is a 1982 date and the pickups are mid-1983. It has every marker I've read about in this thread that points to it being a Fullerton. I haven't taken apart the rest of it yet to check the pot dates, etc. As I mentioned earlier, this P bass is in outstanding condition with just a little bit of finish checking. It looks like a screw hasn't been touched except for the pickup covers. Is there any issue with me removing the pickguard screws to look at the pots?
Edit Add: The serial number on the plate is V015xxx.
I'm not a collector and bought this to play (it's amazing!), but I don't want to screw up anything with it either. (I'm super handy having rehabbed 4 houses I've owned so that's not an issue. I've also taken plenty of basses apart, changed parts, done setups, etc.)
Take it apart. Be gentle. You'll be fine.
I repair and build instruments, so I'm happy to share some advice on the subject.
The biggest worry in removing parts would be the screwdriver slipping to create a mar in the finish. Unless someone glued the pickguard to the body, removing it and/or the screws will not damage the bass in any way.
Keep in mind, though, that the finish on the AVRI instruments is nitrocellulose. That means it is thinner than polyurethane and much more fragile. It is also the reason why the finish is likely starting to show cracks.
A couple of final thoughts...
If it were me I wouldn't remove the bridge plate. There is nothing to see under it, except for the grounding wire. The same goes with the tuners. No need to mess with them.
Remove the strings before attempting to remove the pickguard. It's possible to get the pickguard out with the strings in the way, but it's a pain in the butt and you run the risk of scratching the finish and your unique pepperoni pickguard.
Don't over-tighten the screws. Just snug them down and they'll stay put.
Place your screws in a cup or some sort of holder. You don't want to lose any of them. Shiny new screws stand out like a sore thumb when paired with the aged screws.
If the foam underneath the pickups is deteriorating it is acceptable to replace it without having to worry about devaluing your bass. In fact, you can buy new foam from quite a few sellers online.
If you remove your neck make sure it is aligned properly with regard to string spacing when you reattach it.
I always take the opportunity to thoroughly clean my instruments when I remove the pickguard. You can more easily get some of the grime and grunge that has built up over the years.
I also enjoy looking to see if the finish has faded by comparing the colors under the pickguard to those that have been exposed to UV rays and use.
Lastly, take pics of your pickups. It's easier to look at photos than to pull your bass apart again. You can share the pics with those on the forum, too.
when i remove any screws i note which screw came out of which hole and return it back to the same spot.
For Sale - 1983 Fender Fullerton Jazz Fiesta Red
Definitely no affiliation.
I’m missing a Fullerton AVRI manual. But honestly I find this kind of price rather depressing... https://www.gbase.com/gear/fender-fullerton-jazz-precision-bass-instruction-manual-1983-reissue
I find it utterly ridiculous. I'd love to have the "case candy" for my bass, too, but I can come up with a hundred better ways to spend $250 than on a small brochure.
My 57 AVRI. Neck date says 11-11-82. Cant read what's in the neck pocket. Ive had EMG's in it, now sporting SD Antiquity II. Baddass on it since the 80's. Still have all the old parts too. Love this one
I don't know what came over me. After playing this fine Fullerton AV Jazz the last couple days I have pulled it from the market. This bass has the best neck and body feel/weight ever.
I've kept my '83 V01 as well although I don't play it as often as I should.
For those that have had both, is the Fullerton '57 VS P pickup voiced differently than the Fullerton '62 VS P? Thanks!
Compared with both earlier and later periods , Fender produced quite a large selection of case candy for the Fullerton reissues .
View attachment 4209184
Bumping this again.... Can you please let me know if the pickups are different in the Fullerton '57 P and the '62 P? Do they sound different or the same? Thank you!
oh yeah. my american original came with just certificate, covers and keys. even the hang tag wasn't there. i guess the store threw it away.
The DG part of the pickup might be the same. The EA part have mostly the raised A-poles(57). I havent swapped them from my 57 to my 62. What is the reason for your question?
I'm not sure if there was any significant difference between the early '57/'62 pickups, but my '57 Fullerton with a Lollar pickup sounds WAY better than my '62 Fullerton with its original pickup. Apologies, though, for not answering your question. I would think that there is someone on here who knows for certain.
My early 3-digit '57 already had a Lindy Fralin PU when I got it but I ditched it for the Lollar later on. I'm not a collector and I wanted what IMO was the best-sounding P-bass pickup available at the time.
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