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Fender, MusicMan or Warwick Bass

MusicMan. I've got a bunch of basses - Fender, Rickenbacker, Gibson, Guild, Ovation, Peavey, Ibanez and MusicMan. I like them all for different reasons but I consider the MusicMan to be the best built, best designed of them all. I don't play it very often because the tone is a bit "middle of the road" but it's the one bass I'd never think about getting rid of.
 
German. P. MM.

Check out the Sandberg VM4. P and MM pickups on a P body. German made.

Not super common. Chicago Exchange has one or two. I like the clips. Never played one.
 

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It also depends upon the tone you hear in your head, what kind of music you play and any band, gig situation you work with. All the basses you've listed work great in any recording-gigging situation. You've got to reconcile what you want with what's going to get you in the tone arena you want to be in.

Amp & cab also figure into this.

Personally, I prefer American made Fenders, open ported cabs and tube-tone amps. I play Young Country, rock & occasionally classic R & B. Thus, my choice of tools.

This is very true. All 3 of those basses could handle any gig, but it depends on what kind of tone you want and what techniques/touch you use.

After playing almost 20 years and owning each of models you've mentioned, I prefer Fender American basses. Especially P's. I have one strung with flats and am buying another soon to play with rounds. There are clips on YouTube comparing the sound difference. The American models just generally sound and feel better.

As far as rock tones, a precision bass played with a pick is excellent to my ears. Musicman basses are great, but with less fundamental/bottom end, yet more growl/highs to my ears. The corvette is cool, but I found mine way too heavy (15lbs!!)

Something to note in your search, compare the sound of active and then passive basses over and over again. I'm preferring passive much more often lately and this is after 10+ years of 10 different active 5 strings. When I use pedals, a passive bass with a pick makes the effect stand out 10 times more.
 
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I own a '99 corvette std 5, an '01 sr5 H, and my brother has '15 Mia JAzz5

I have limited time on the Jazz 5. But I really really like all three. Can't go wrong. For what it's worth. I play the std 5 if we need to record or if I'm on For a relatively short time. Warwick is heavy for a few hrs of standing. And there is some neck dive. Love the tone and feel. Sr5 is not light but I find it more comfortable to play for long periods of time. Sr5 has a fun factor to play and nice meaty tone. Jazz is warmer tone and the lightest. I like the passive option ( new rays and j's have this ) but mine doesn't. If I absolutely had to pick one I'd go Warwick. But I honestly play the sr5 live more often. It's my current regular.

Not to add further complication. But I would throw a cirrus 5 in there at this used price point for consideration. I can't explain to my wife why I need them all. But I went cirrus 5, std 5, and sr5 as my 3 keepers. I play all three pretty regularly.
 
Connect with the different TB clubs before your trip. You might even be able to hook up with a local TB member while there for additional help. I know the Spector and Warwick clubs have Toronto members and they are fanatics about their basses. Wouldn't be surprised if one of them offered to bring a couple of models to you for a quick test run.

Last bit of advice when shopping for those basses at music stores - many stores have limited used gear supplies and their new gear is frequently the less expensive bargain models. Do Not confuse an Asian built Spector with a European built Spector (USA built is probably out of your price range) or a German built Warwick with an Asian built rock bass or a Stingray with one of its Asian counterparts. Not trying to knock Asian basses but there is a noticeable difference in sound and feel in these vs their more upscale offerings from the USA and Europe.
I like to buy the Asian model and mod it. Bridge, pickups, nut, preamp, I'm even mulling over making an exotic wood pick guard and control cover for my Ray4. The most important thing is that the bass itself is resonant and quality construction, which many Asian models are of pretty good craftsmanship despite what many think. It's food for thought, what is good for me may not be fur you, if I had more money id buy higher end gear. But I'm a machinist by trade and tinkering comes naturally.
 
Thank you guys, much better advice! Going to take a road trip to Toronto soon and hopefully they will have all these basses in stock at one of their music stores for me to try.

St. John's Music near Eglinton and Bayview usually have a few Warwicks in stock. They're usually Rockbasses though, but they maybe helpful to at least try to help get your mind made up. They can order in any Warwick you want... FWIW, you can order Warwicks through Long & McQuade too, but when you're ordering in these basses (from both stores), expect a few weeks delay and be sure it is what you want because return isn't so easy with an ordered in bass.

Steve's downtown sometimes has some Warwicks and Spectors... I'm not a big fan of Steve's techs though. Do yourself a favour, and if you do buy a bass there, get someone else to do the setup/repairs (if you're not up to doing it yourself).
 
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I would say that if you're going to buy sight unseen, there are a couple of things to know.

First, most people are disappointed by active Fenders and passive Warwicks - not a hard and fast rule, so hold your fire, but a commonly observed phenomenon.

Second, EBMM probably has the best quality assurance of the production basses you mentioned, though you can find a bad one from time to time, and they are active only. Also if you find you don't like what a Stingray does, you are stuck. The same applies to Warwicks, many of which (like the Thumb) do one thing very well, but it's a thing some people really don't care for.

Third, a good Fender Precision is capable of far more than one tone, the vast majority of people here would consider it the archetypal bass that works for almost any kind of music, and instead of going for active preamps and multiple pickups, it might be best to look for a high-end Precision. I can tell you that a nice used '63 or '58 AV reissue P-bass can pump out ridiculous amounts of low-end, sits in the mix better than anything else, is essentially bulletproof, doesn't need a battery, and holds resale value very well.

Just my two cents.
 
Wrong!
I just bought a brand new limited edition flaming blonde German made bolt on Thumb bass for less than $1500. It was a NOS 2007 model, not used or preowned in mint condition with all the case candy, hang tags and full factory warranty. It's number 7 of only 32 made and signed by company founder H. P. Wilfer.
I think you need to look harder or find better suppliers!
I think when ever I was looking to buy a warwick, and the fact I couldnt find any under 3000 unless someone shows me it (or its a corvette which i do love and want one but I put my money into a stingray instead), is just a sign that Im not destined to own one unless its the corvette
 
I'd be more worried about the plastic version of the nut.
+ 1. I have a 2011 Warwick Rockbass Streamer LX, and it is a fantastic instrument, especially for the price, but one of the pins holding the plastic nut in place did break off... But it's really not a big deal at all and should not be a deterrent - the strings hold it perfectly in place (because the other pin is still OK). It's only a bit of a pain when changing strings. If it was enough of a pain in the a**, some super glue would cure it, but it doesn't bother me to enough to do it.

Also, if you are considering a Rockbass (at least the more updated ones with the two-piece bridge), please keep in mind that there's some heavily incorrect information out there. The pickups are MEC branded pickups but the electronics inside are not MEC (well they are on the Fortress, but that's it). I was pretty disappointed to find out my preamp was a cheap knock off made in a no-name Korean factory to the MEC specs.

The price for a new Rockbass has also creeped up a little in the last few years. A used German Warwick (for a corvette anyway) is only a few hundred more, but our local used Warwick market isn't doing so well (it never really does).
 
Just a few quick Warwick comments. One, someone said look for mid 90s Warwicks for a lighter bass. My German 1994 (All wenge neck, ash body, 5-string, active or passive) weighs about 12 lbs. It has all gold hardware. It gives me a really good loud punchy sound which is what I need. Second, on the comments on the brass/vs plastic nut. I have both and switch back and forth occasionally just for fun. Both do the job, both are broken (my fault) but sill do the job. My pref is the newer 'plastic' one. Many reading here don't have a clue what I'm talking about. Basically, it allows precise height adjustment of all strings at the head (at the zero fret). Also, I have played mine through maybe 6 or 7 amp/speaker/combos and it sounded either weak or fantastic through them. Currently push 350 watts into a 2x12 NEO cab - lows and low mids are powerful, super clean highs if you like slapping. Used, mine can be occasionally found for around $500 - $750.
 
I have owned a Warwick that weighed 7.3lbs and one that weighed 12. I have a Stingray that weighs 8.3 and one that weighs 10.2. Weight is luck of the draw. If weight is a sticking point, try to get accurate weight from seller (If you are not able to buy in person). Beware of bathroom scale weight reports. It's too easy to blame the inaccuracy on the scale.

Beware that the ergonomics of Warwicks are not for everyone. I have moved on from my Warwick thumbs due to the ergonomics giving me fits. I was having issues with pain in my wrist on my fret hand. Something about the short upper horn and how it hung on on the strap was putting my wrist in a uncomfortable playing position. I got rid of the Thumbs and the discomfort went away. I have never owned a Corvette, so I can't speak for all Warwicks.

With $1,500 you are setting in good shape to get a real nice instrument (regardless of what you choose). For my money, I'd go Stingray. You could probably even score a used Ball Family Reserve or PDN model.
 
Do you lend yourself to being disrespectful to someone in their thread often? Maybe you should purse your fingers a bit and convey yourself in a more proper manner in someone elses thread.. if you want to be offensive, do it in your own thread.. just thinking out loud here.. Be polite.. and think of better ways to get your thoughts across.. I am for one not the political correctness kind of guy, but I know better to give some respect to others!
Sorry but babysitting isn't my thing.
 

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