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Fender Mustang Club

Bass Direct can get you HB10s, I just ordered a set from them
I got the Hipshot HB10s in the end, but on my bass the bushings were too small. The hole was 17mm, which is what the Schaller tuners are. Given the amount of cracking around the edges of the hole (which had been covered by the bigger Schaller bushings) I imagine the previous owner did a bit of a hatchet job widening the holes, though I don't know what size Mustang PJ's are supposed to be.

So I'm experimenting with different ways to get them to fit. At the moment I've wrapped around plumbers tape on a couple, copper tape on another and tin foil on a third one. See what happens in terms of compressing and stability before doing the rest the same way. Ideally I'd like to find some replacement bushings that fit a 17mm hole but have the narrower tuning pegs the HB10s have. Don't know if those exist, though. Any advice very welcome.
 
Can you let me know how it goes? Sounds like I might be about to have the same problem....
Think I'm going to use tin foil for all of them. There are little gaps from the small chips and cracks the previous owner made which are more noticeable with the white plumbers tape and copper tape, plus I'd have thought tin foil is less likely to compress over time. If I had wood working skills and equipment I could try and make some kind of wooden dowels and redrill, but this should do the trick. Let me know how it goes with yours as I think the problem was probably caused by the previous owner widening the holes for the Schallers he bought. Hopefully it'll be a straight drop in for you.
 
I got the Hipshot HB10s in the end, but on my bass the bushings were too small. The hole was 17mm, which is what the Schaller tuners are. Given the amount of cracking around the edges of the hole (which had been covered by the bigger Schaller bushings) I imagine the previous owner did a bit of a hatchet job widening the holes, though I don't know what size Mustang PJ's are supposed to be.

So I'm experimenting with different ways to get them to fit. At the moment I've wrapped around plumbers tape on a couple, copper tape on another and tin foil on a third one. See what happens in terms of compressing and stability before doing the rest the same way. Ideally I'd like to find some replacement bushings that fit a 17mm hole but have the narrower tuning pegs the HB10s have. Don't know if those exist, though. Any advice very welcome.

I once cobbed up an extremely loose fit between tuner bushings and the holes they went into with strips of packaging tape for a snug fit into the holes, then super glued them into place from the backside... Although hardly a solution of luthier quality, it actually worked pretty well, and AFAIK, are still in place today...
 
Think I'm going to use tin foil for all of them. There are little gaps from the small chips and cracks the previous owner made which are more noticeable with the white plumbers tape and copper tape, plus I'd have thought tin foil is less likely to compress over time. If I had wood working skills and equipment I could try and make some kind of wooden dowels and redrill, but this should do the trick. Let me know how it goes with yours as I think the problem was probably caused by the previous owner widening the holes for the Schallers he bought. Hopefully it'll be a straight drop in for you.
I’ll let you know!
 
I’ll let you know!
Actually, might go for a change of plan after hearing back from very helpful guy at Axesrus who I got the Hipshot tuners from. They confirmed they don't have any bushings that would be a better fit, and wrote:
"I think, a realistic solution to this, would be to pack out the hole (toothpicks around the edge and glued into place) find a washer with a 16mm hole in the middle, and an external diameter over 18mm (to cover up the hole entirely, toothpicks and all) – then press the bush in through the washer.

Not ideal – but it should function absolutely fine, and it won't look half bad – just got to learn to love the washer."

I never would have thought of using a washer like that, but sounds like a good plan to try.
 
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Actually, might go for a change of plan after hearing back from very helpful guy at Axesrus who I got the Hipshot tuners from. They confirmed they don't have any bushings that would be a better fit, and wrote:
"I think, a realistic solution to this, would be to pack out the hole (toothpicks around the edge and glued into place) find a washer with a 16mm hole in the middle, and an external diameter over 18mm (to cover up the hole entirely, toothpicks and all) – then press the bush in through the washer.

Not ideal – but it should function absolutely fine, and it won't look half bad – just got to learn to love the washer."

I never would have thought of using a washer like that, but sounds like a good plan to try.
Sounds like a perfectly cromulent plan.
 
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My cromulent plan seems to have worked okay. The washers look better than the cracks I think.
IMG_20180505_152115978.jpg
IMG_20180505_152130030.jpg
 
NCD!

Please allow me to barge in. I’m not a member of the club, sadly, but I just scored a case for my MIJ Mustang bass reissue, yeah! I came across it this afternoon whilst scouring the classifieds at work and picked it up after dinner as the guy lived right nearby. It’s a new case from the JMJ Mustang he’d just bought, but he didn’t want the case taking up space, so...

Dang, I can’t believe I just got a brand new perfectly fitting Fender case for my Mustang for just $100:hyper:

B50E909C-11D8-4AB4-AA55-A9BBF5FEED1C.jpeg
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I always feel like an instrument without an original case is kind of an orphan.

Not that it’s such a big deal — until tonight, exactly half of my instruments didn’t have original cases (I’ll count the above case as among the original types). So, no biggie, or at least not enough of a biggie for me to go out and, say, actually buy new cases for any of them, lol. And yet, it always does kind of bother me a little...

Anyway, for one of my two co-favorite basses, problem solved!
 
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Unfortunately, the case doesn’t really have any provision for storing things like tools and such that would otherwise bang around in there. Fender kinda cheaped out on that, actually.

On the positive side, it’s my only case that will hold its instrument with a Schaller straplock-equipped strap still attached. I took the strap off anyway as I figured all the weight resting on the end pin with the strap lock acting as a lever might not be ideal for the end pin screw. But it’s cool to know I can just put it in with the strap still on if I’m in a hurry.

Meanwhile, there’s a little leather strap to hold the neck against the bottom half of the case that is likely gonna get unintentionally yanked out one day as none of my other hard cases have a little strap like that inside. Similar to my soft cases though, I guess.

Welp, that’s pretty much it, my fellow club members, for The Great Tale of the Caseless Mustang Bass!
 
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Finally, bass and case united. L’il MiJ, with a home of its own at last:
View attachment 3012348


And here it is all nestled snug in its new case, with its security gig bag still close at hand (awww):
View attachment 3012349
Nice! I'm jealous. Need a case for my PJ, but it's still at shop getting some tweaks so motivation is low to pop for a new case. That will change when it comes home next week.
 
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My cromulent plan seems to have worked okay. The washers look better than the cracks I think. View attachment 3006792 View attachment 3006793

Only mentioning this because your close-up detail pics make it glaring... when winding your strings, press down on the coil to rest it as close to the base of the post as possible. You can still do this by loosening the strings and pushing it down. That way, you have a better break-angle off the nut to the posts and the string-tree will be happier. The object is to get the length of the string post nut as parallel and close to the hs face as possible. If you look at basses you'll see it is standard procedure. :)
 
Only mentioning this because your close-up detail pics make it glaring... when winding your strings, press down on the coil to rest it as close to the base of the post as possible. You can still do this by loosening the strings and pushing it down. That way, you have a better break-angle off the nut to the posts and the string-tree will be happier. The object is to get the length of the string post nut as parallel and close to the hs face as possible. If you look at basses you'll see it is standard procedure. :)
Thanks for the tip. I've never really thought about that and just start at the top and wind downwards, and how far down it goes just depends on how long the strings are. Can see how that could reduce any stress on the tuning post as well.
 
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