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Fender Mustang Club

E25512FF-3263-4192-A88E-FB120A0667DE.jpeg
D1AF009C-37BF-48F2-BC4D-6B6B476D82BB.jpeg
1969 before and after.
Body had been stripped and coated, and the common P bass pickup mod.
Badass bridge; ick! Stock bridge was in the case.
Neck is untouched other than to reseat frets.
Body refinished to match the aged headstock, new pickguard and Nordstrand Mustang pickup, stock bridge back on.
 
1969 before and after.
Body had been stripped and coated, and the common P bass pickup mod.
Badass bridge; ick! Stock bridge was in the case.
Neck is untouched other than to reseat frets.
Body refinished to match the aged headstock, new pickguard and Nordstrand Mustang pickup, stock bridge back on.

How do you like the Nordstrand compared to the P pickup?
 
View attachment 3119480 View attachment 3119481 1969 before and after.
Body had been stripped and coated, and the common P bass pickup mod.
Badass bridge; ick! Stock bridge was in the case.
Neck is untouched other than to reseat frets.
Body refinished to match the aged headstock, new pickguard and Nordstrand Mustang pickup, stock bridge back on.
It was beautiful as a bastard and it's beautiful now.
 
I didn’t care for it’s stripped appearance, but clearly ymmv.

The Nord pickup is fine.
I never had a stock mustang, so I don’t know what that’s like, but the Nord doesn’t seem terribly different than a good P pickup.
 
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You my want to contact these people:

Chandler Music <[email protected]>

They're in Chico, CA, cost $65.00 with a two week turnaround.

Thank you my friend once again you have come through. I spoke to Adrian on Wednesday and will be here next Friday.
As soon as it is finished I will post pix.

And that is why I extremely like this group.

Have a great day all
Bob
 
Well it is me again and I am here with my hat in my hand seeking for what I hope is my last request for modification input and advice. In fact I would prefer both the positive as well as the negative comments on this issue. I am considering replacing the current string tree that came with my mustang with a Hipshot three string retainer.

As I have mentioned in the past I have severe Rheumatoid Arthritis in both hands but worse in my left. The lower the action I can get without buzz or hum the better.

I have searched TB and Google extensively. But I have received so much great advice and input from this thread during this project I felt that my research would not be complete without including this request.

IMHO it looks like that this modification could become a possible mistake if not done correctly and could be more of a hindrance than a help. In fact the person who suggested this had actually installed 2, 3 string retainers on his 2016 Mustang PJ to obtain the string tension he was looking for. I am not sure if that is the solution I am looking for. He was quite vague in his explanation.

So if anyone has any input or experience, positive or negative please feel free to respond.

As a final note my roommate is very adept in woodworking and metallurgy and very patient with those who are not. So I have a expert (so to speak) in my hip pocket. Also we have a great shop here that can do this and I am not against just taking it there if my roommate has any reservations. As was noted once any free help is always nice.

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this matter. It will not fall on deaf ears and will be greatly appreciated.


Bob
 
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Well it is me again and I am here with my hat in my hand seeking for what I hope is my last request for modification input and advice. In fact I would prefer both the positive as well as the negative comments on this issue. I am considering replacing the current string tree that came with my mustang with a Hipshot three string retainer.

As I have mentioned in the past I have severe Rheumatoid Arthritis in both hands but worse in my left. The lower the action I can get without buzz or hum the better.

I have searched TB and Google extensively. But I have received so much great advice and input from this thread during this project I felt that my research would not be complete without including this request.

IMHO it looks like that this modification could become a possible mistake if not done correctly and could be more of a hindrance than a help. In fact the person who suggested this had actually installed 2, 3 string retainers on his 2016 Mustang PJ to obtain the string tension he was looking for. I am not sure if that is the solution I am looking for. He was quite vague in his explanation.

So if anyone has any input or experience, positive or negative please feel free to respond.

As a final note my roommate is very adept in woodworking and metallurgy and very patient with those who are not. So I have a expert (so to speak) in my hip pocket. Also we have a great shop here that can do this and I am not against just taking it there if my roommate has any reservations. As was noted once any free help is always nice.

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this matter. It will not fall on deaf ears and will be greatly appreciated.


Bob
Not needed unless there is a break angle issue on your A string causing it to buzz. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
 
....the person who suggested this had actually installed 2, 3 string retainers on his 2016 Mustang PJ to obtain the string tension he was looking for. I am not sure if that is the solution I am looking for.....

A string retainer can increase the break angle of the string coming off the nut to the tuner.
Strings need to be at a certain tension between the nut and the saddle to be at a specific pitch.
A string tree won't change the tension required for the strings to be at pitch.
I have two Mustang P/J's and have never considered changing the string retainer on either one.

If you need to lower your string action, you might need to have the nut slots cut down,
in combination with lowering the saddle heights if possible.
If you go too far with it, you'll have buzzing and make it basically unplayable.

I think it's worth learning how to set up your own bass, but if you're not comfortable doing that,
try to find someone competent enough to do it the way you describe.
 
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If you need to lower your string action, you might need to have the nut slots cut down,
in combination with lowering the saddle heights if possible.
If you go too far with it, you'll have buzzing and make it basically unplayable.

However, it should be mentioned that if you do end up cutting the nut slots too low, you can always just get a new nut put in and start over. Heck, you could even get a nut material upgrade to real bone while you’re at it (not that the material makes much difference).

Bobhmcs, low action comes from truss rod adjustment, low height at the nut and low height at the bridge. I guess lower (not tall) frets would help with getting the lowest possible action, too.

I periodically have hand issues myself, and the big thing for me is lower string tension. Certain brands have less tension than others for a given gauge, but the first thing is scale length (shorter scale = lighter tension) followed by using lighter gauge strings with the bass set up for decent action. The final touch is a low tension set for that light string gauge. Personally, I like lowish action but not super low as then I have to play more lightly with my right hand than I like to avoid too much buzzing. For me, I’ve compromised in string gauge, playing lighter strings than I would otherwise. Anyway, ya gotta do what ya gotta do
 
I would like to take this opportunity to thank you all for your input advice and experience in this issue. I read and I believe understand what has been presented to me from both sides of the coin which is what I wanted.

I believe I approached this problem from the wrong way. More bassackward than head on. But I feel I got the answer that I needed.

It was brought to my attention that there are no magic answers out there and it is what it is and a person can only go so far. It is now time for the professionals to do what they are there for. I was also reminded by this individual that there has never been a professional and thorough setup done on this instrument. One was not included in the sale even though it was purchased brand new.

I have made a appointment with a highly respect shop here for Thursday to have that done. In addition I am to meet with the senior tech to go over my limitations and possible remedies. Such strings, bridge adjustment, nut measurement, so on and so forth.

Once again it is much appreciated.


Bob
 
...I have made a appointment with a highly respect shop here for Thursday to have that done. In addition I am to meet with the senior tech to go over my limitations and possible remedies. Such strings, bridge adjustment, nut measurement, so on and so forth.

Bob, I’d try a set of .040 - .095 strings such as the ones I’ve linked to below. Be careful tough, this particular set is medium scale — I’m NOT sure if you need medium scale or short scale strings on your PJ (I think medium? Anyway, don’t take my word for it). My Mustang is an MIJ and I just use regular scale length strings on it, but that won’t work for the PJ as the PJ has a different bridge. Anyway, as an example:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The string set will affect how much tension needs to be on the trussrod, so you should have your tech put the strings you want on before/while doing the setup.

The strings that come stock on the Mustang PJ are, I’ve read, .045, .065, .085, .105

On my MIJ Mustang, I’m using D’Addario XL .040 - .100s. Definitely easier on the ol’ fretting hand than the .105 sets, and I’m never going back up to thicker strings again.

You can probably go even lower tension than those .095s by going to a round core set (for a given gauge, round core strings are lower tension than the more regular hex core strings). However, like anything else, going too far in one direction (such as super low tension) might involve trade offs. Anyway, I’d give those .095s a try.

Good luck with your efforts!
 
I use a 45-107 balanced set on mine and frankly while its not floppy I would probably run a 50-120 set if I thought the nut would take it without modification to get up to "normal" tension, drop the action a little bit and reduce buzzing when digging in.
 
I've been experimenting with shorter switch tips.

Qa23buz.jpg


This is the stock Fender switch tip with some length shaved off the bottom. I also reamed out the hole in the base, to allow it to slide down over the switch itself a bit more. I really like the feel of this shorter switch. It stays out the way until you need it.
 
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Bob, I’d try a set of .040 - .095 strings such as the ones I’ve linked to below. Be careful tough, this particular set is medium scale — I’m NOT sure if you need medium scale or short scale strings on your PJ (I think medium? Anyway, don’t take my word for it). My Mustang is an MIJ and I just use regular scale length strings on it, but that won’t work for the PJ as the PJ has a different bridge. Anyway, as an example:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The string set will affect how much tension needs to be on the trussrod, so you should have your tech put the strings you want on before/while doing the setup.

The strings that come stock on the Mustang PJ are, I’ve read, .045, .065, .085, .105

On my MIJ Mustang, I’m using D’Addario XL .040 - .100s. Definitely easier on the ol’ fretting hand than the .105 sets, and I’m never going back up to thicker strings again.

You can probably go even lower tension than those .095s by going to a round core set (for a given gauge, round core strings are lower tension than the more regular hex core strings). However, like anything else, going too far in one direction (such as super low tension) might involve trade offs. Anyway, I’d give those .095s a try.

Good luck with your efforts!

Thank you that does clarify things a bit. Should I be using the Medium scale strings? I have a hipshot high mass bridge on it and right now and have the DiAddrio XL 0.45-0.95 short scale strings. That was recommended on the RA thread before I changed to the new bridge. I have been playing the string game ever since I bought it. I really like these strings but as you said there could be a trade off. Now this maybe more due to technique, but i seem to have a bit more, what I call, pickup slap and nonspecific fret buzz. It is like I have a bit of string slop. Being new again and not having a 30 year old hands it could also be my stringing ability as well.

Once again thank you to all.
Bob
 
If there's still numbers being handed out I'd like one. I've always wanted a Mustang, but the stars never aligned before now. I was actually glad to see the PJ combo, I know some prefer the standard Mustang. But the PJ allows this bass to become an everyday, any situation player for me.
20180813_183428.jpg


I've got it all set up now. Great tone, definitely a good variety of tones you can get out of it. Great action. It's the first bass I've owned with a switch and I think I prefer the switch to the VVT of my jazz bass.

Anyway that's my mini review. Great player right out of the box. Probably ground that's been well covered already in the thread.
 
Thank you that does clarify things a bit. Should I be using the Medium scale strings? I have a hipshot high mass bridge on it and right now and have the DiAddrio XL 0.45-0.95 short scale strings. That was recommended on the RA thread before I changed to the new bridge....I really like these strings..."
Bob

Sounds like you’re good on strings then. As long as they were long enough to get close to two wraps around the tuning peg, they’re long enough, imo. Even just a little more than one complete wrap should be fine. Also, you of course don’t want the silk ends to be resting on the nut.

A little buzz isn’t the end of the world.

Good luck with the tech appointment and setup! Be sure to let us know how it goes
 
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Thank you that does clarify things a bit. Should I be using the Medium scale strings? I have a hipshot high mass bridge on it and right now and have the DiAddrio XL 0.45-0.95 short scale strings. That was recommended on the RA thread before I changed to the new bridge. I have been playing the string game ever since I bought it. I really like these strings but as you said there could be a trade off. Now this maybe more due to technique, but i seem to have a bit more, what I call, pickup slap and nonspecific fret buzz. It is like I have a bit of string slop. Being new again and not having a 30 year old hands it could also be my stringing ability as well.

Once again thank you to all.
Bob

Those strings you have on Bob are the correct size for the bass. You only need medium scale strings if it is a through body like on the original Mustangs or pawn shop models. I have slightly heavier gauge on mine, D`addario 50 to 105 and they are great. No floppy E string for me! :bassist: