It looks like the Mini Mud Stand is about $40. I might give it a shot. I'll try playing at a greater distance, as well. I sit right next to my amp at my little "studio."
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Thank you. I have been playing around with the EQ quite a lot, but I'll keep an open mind.I don't know, to be honest. I might have gotten this all wrong but from what I've noticed the buttons for bright/contour/vintage are more or less boosts to treble/middle/bass.
Also, I don't know how you set up your EQ and what kind of sound you like to have while you play, but make sure to EQ to the room and not to "your sound". Different rooms have different acoustics so you might have to completely re-do your EQ from the ground up. Start with everything at noon (maybe except the volume if your room is tiny, like mine!) and slowly take out the bass if it's boomy and fix it up with middle EQ knobs. Add treble and effects to taste.
In my room, my windows hate the E string. I can play B and all the other strings higher than E but whenever I play my E, the windows rattle. Obviously it must have something to do with sound frequencies and how this particular glass is made and...
Anyway, point is - EQ to the room. You will sound different in a small room with a lot of reflective surfaces and little to no furniture, different in an open space and totally different in a room with a bunch of sound dampening etc
Just some small tips, maybe it was helpful!
Wow, you folks really came to my rescue quickly! I appreciate that. Let me add to the story for clarity.
Firstly, the sound I'm getting sounds a little bit as if I had a sheet of tag board vibrating and fluttering against the speaker grill (but I don't). It is very noticeable when I play "Money" by Pink Floyd and go from the B to the low F#.
I can't honestly tell you if it has had this problem from the beginning or not. I don't remember it earlier, but I didn't pay enough attention, or I didn't play "Money".
I took it to the small shop where I bought it (Mark's Guitar Exchange in San Diego) and asked Mark if he could help me. I wasn't satisfied with his assistance. Even when I could produce the rumble, he seemed to be ignorant of what was bothering me. All he did was reset the equalization to settings I had used before, and it really didn't give the clear sound I expected. He seemed to be a bit impatient with me, but I'm not very picky about my sound. I only want a clear, solid low end. The bass sounded a little better in the shop, but still a bit muddy and wavy.
I seem to have the problem with both basses, and I know for certain the J-Bass is properly set up.
I'v tested it without the speaker grill, and it sounded the same.
No ceiling fan, but thinks for the suggestion.
Two of your suggestions caught my eye, and I tried them.
1) Following bassdeal's referral, I saw in the Fender Rumble Club "Tone Pool" that the settings for say, Motown had the equalization settings all quite low. I tried this, but there was no improvement.
2) Some of you mentioned the surface it sits on and suggested gig boards and isolation pads. While I haven't tried those exactly, I did move the amp to a very stable, solid surface (concrete garage floor). It had been on a raised surface about three feet off the ground. Not much improvement, I'm afraid.
To tell you the truth, it does sound to me like a damaged speaker cone, but I haven't mistreated it at all, either with direct physical contact or with the instrument input. I must return to the shop and try another bass through my amp or my bass through another Rumble 40. Maybe I can talk to another employee as well.
Is it possible that the 10" cannot give me the clarity I'm looking for? I used to have a 10" Gorilla that sounded about the same.
Thanks again!
Hmmm . . . .
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Ulp! ... Wha...? Oh, yeah!
Sorry, kuyo. I was distracted with your issue. @Kijekuyo, you are now member #1248 in the Fender Rumble Club. Now it's your Club, too, and you got a bunch of us racking our brains to try to help. That's what it's about.
On the internal batting mod, see the "Acoustic Fill" links in the middle of the Rumble Modifications section of the Rumble Club Wiki page, linked in my signature. I believe I've read that the optimal lining is usually just one side, plus the top or bottom, plus the back. If you work it right, this is a reversible mod that should be undone before taking it to a Fender Authorized Service Center, or else it'll void the warranty! Also, it could be just a loose-ish speaker screw, or two.
Good luck, Kije. Please keep us informed of your progress, as we all . . . .
Rumble On!
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I understand. Speaker damage and speaker protection are two, different things.
The first is to get your speaker fixed. Then try to find out what caused it and what can prevent that damage in the future. My first consideration would be with the Peavey and 15" cab. It may be capable of much more wattage than the 40 W, 10" driver but that's just my guess..
B4 the effing virus, I used my R40 for country club or restaurant gigs.
Rest assured, I am not in any way combining the Peavey and Rumble components. Sorry I gave that impression.
Thank you, now already in the sig!
I have read of a Rumbler, or two, who apparently just couldn't get the tone they were looking for from the Rumble 40. At least one found what they were looking for by adding a horn/tweeter with appropriate crossover. But that shouldn't be required for such a relatively new amp.
At least one other traded the regular Rumble 40 for a Rumble Studio 40, with the same 10" speaker but with a factory installed horn/tweeter & crossover, (and all the modeled amps, cabs and effects). But it seems a bit of a stretch to think the horn/tweeter made the big difference when the modeling gives such an extremely wide range of tones.
Other than such audio preferences, I think a speaker screw, or two, has worked loose (which wasn't before) and/or adding a bit of internal acoustic fill would fix it up. Otherwise, a Fender Authorized Service Center should be consulted before the warranty is up.
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I had a Peavy 610 cab that was killer. Sold it. Wah!
I had a Peavey Classic 610 Tweed guitar amp owned by POCO!
Thanks much! These look like a better value than the Aurelex!
I may be looking to sell my R112v3. It's been sitting, gathering dust on the custom heavy duty cover for nearly a year now and I see no future use for it. The biggest problem is gonna be the cost of shipping-probably~$100+. I just hate to see it going to waste sitting under my dining room table. It's not listed-yet-I'm still thinking about it, but I don't need it and somebody might. If I 'need' the extra fullness I can daisy chain my R100/R200C, but the way the live music biz is looking around here that seems doubtful at best.
I'm not gonna sell nothin', but I know the feelin'. Depressin' situation. 
I've got a Rumble 112 v3 on it's way from TX to GA - shipping with UPS $55 - not bad! You're in a good area to just list "local pickup only" if you don't want to fool with shipping.
That's part of the problem. The one @bhendrix is getting is probably the one I saw listed for ~$300. When I looked at shipping a bass to AZ I was quoted ~$125. Just to clarify, I don't need to sell it so I'm not taking a loss on it. I got it as a return for $275 + shipping, so that's about what I'd ask for it. The custom cover is prolly worth ~$50 on its own.
Close...
Fender Rumble 112 500W 1x12 Bass Speaker Cabinet | Reverb
I'm happy with the deal as long as it show's up in said "mint" condition!
Yeah,I'm purty sure that's the one I saw from TX on Reverb.Close...
Fender Rumble 112 500W 1x12 Bass Speaker Cabinet | Reverb
I'm happy with the deal as long as it show's up in said "mint" condition!
