Just got a stage 800!! What used extension cab would you guys recommend for big sound and clarity for all the effects. I know they have the 2X10 for around $500 but I think I can maybe do better on Marketplace with that budget??? Thoughts??
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You finally came to the right place, Snow. @Snowy_here, you are now member #1893 in the Fender Rumble Club. Congratulations and welcome. Put that number in your TalkBass Signature for safe keeping. Then make yourself at home here and on your Rumble Club Wiki page, the repository of all Rumbling wisdom and knowledge.
Adding a matching Rumble 210 cab will get you ultimate 800 watts out of your Rumble, WITH the coupling effect of enhanced harmonics and low frequency extension! But, if you truly want the loudest you can get, the multiple speakers of two Rumble 410 cabs will give you the absolute maximum SPL!! That's right, your Rumble Stage can safely push two 8 ohm cabs!!
For further discussions of your modeling Rumble amp. Please use the Rumble LT25, Studio 40 & Stage 800 sub-thread of this Club specifically for that purpose, if you would please. We don't want to confuse the non-modeling Rumblers in this main thread too much.
So, how about telling us a bit about yourself, Snow, such as your bass experience in general and your Rumble journey in particular? You'll fit right in here since we have all kinds. But we all love to ... ... ...
Rumble On!
I have a 500c and wondering if there is a way to just use the speakers. This is just a precaution if the amp died at a gig and I have a backup amp head. It would save bringing a separate cab.
Not as is. You’d have to modify it.
Disconnect the wires from the speaker. Install two jacks. Connect the old speaker wires to one jack. Run wires from the second jack to the speaker. Label the jacks! Use a speaker patch cord between the jacks to use the rumble amp. Move the amp side plug to another head to use that.
Voids warranty.
Maybe a second cab is easier
Here's a photo documentary of a Rumbler modifying his R100 this way. That was easier than modifying an R500c, since the R100 doesn't have a tweeter.
To all my fellow Rumblers:
"I wish you a Merry Mixed Drink and a Happy New Beer".
"I wish you a Merry Mixed Drink and a Happy New Beer".
i did this to an r100. https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-rumble-club.1118826/page-2993#post-29188627
so i can use its power to drive a cab, or drive it's speaker with something else.
it would be kind of the same mod. it's a bit dangerous tough, if you plug an amp to the wrong socket, you could end up damaging the electronics of both the rumble and the external amp.
also not sure if the woofer and tweeter are wired separately in the r500 (i think they are separate wires coming from the board, but this needs double checking)
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Had some down time from work, so went over most/all my amps to make sure they are functioning properly.
I have been IEM for a while now and haven’t used an amp since 2020.
After firing all of them up and playing through them for a bit I seemed to be totally impressed with how well my Rumble 500c with 112 cab sounds.
Definitely punches above its weight. Even though I don’t use amps any more I am sure happy I have what I got, and happiest with the Rumble rig.
Definitely a keeper for life.
I have been IEM for a while now and haven’t used an amp since 2020.
After firing all of them up and playing through them for a bit I seemed to be totally impressed with how well my Rumble 500c with 112 cab sounds.
Definitely punches above its weight. Even though I don’t use amps any more I am sure happy I have what I got, and happiest with the Rumble rig.
Definitely a keeper for life.
I have an Ashdown LB30. Great low wattage all tube amp.
I go between the Fenders (my Rumbles and a '64 Bassman I built) and my Ashdowns. I love the fat lows in the clean to edge of breakup of the Fender amps and the mid forward, edge of breakup to distorted drive of the Ashdowns. It depends on what I'm playing or feeling, depends on which amp I plug into.
Getting around to recovering the Rumble 25's grill.
Should I do a full write up with pictures for a how to?
Should I do a full write up with pictures for a how to?
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Recovering a Grill
In this project, I'm recovering a Fender Rumble 25 grill in a different color Fender grill cloth.
I am writing it for the least experienced DIY'er. For the more experienced, you will likely get bored reading this.
Take detailed picture of every little detail before you disassemble the grill, These will come in handy as a reference when you reassemble the grill.
Aside from the pocket knife and my heat gun, all the tools needed are pictured above.
If you're using a Fender style grill cloth, be aware of the orientation of the stripes in the grill cloth, as this is critical to the appearance of the grill. Both the Silver/grey and the Wheat cloths have raise stripes in the primary color and a daker stripe (black or dark brown as appropriate) that run in between the raised stripe. These stripes are the horizontal stripes. There is also other highlighted primary stripe that are (vertical) 90° to the raise and dark stripes. Be careful not to conflate those stripes. Pictured is how the stripes should be oriented.
Step 1: Stripping the frame
Once you've established the orientation of the cloth and the logo (FOH Top Left), you can begin.
Start with removing the plastic Fender logo. It's held by two #1 Phillips screws. Set them aside.
Flip the grill over. Using a small screwdriver, pry up the staples holding the pull tab. You may need to use a knife to get enough clearance for the screwdriver tip, but don't pry up with the knife, as you could break the tip. You can pry the staples all the way up/off, but I just pry each end of the staple up to break them loose and then pull them out with the plyers. Save it for reinstallation. Mine was frayed at the ends and I used a lighter to singe the ends to stop it from further fraying.
Repeat this for each of the four Velcro strips on each of the corners. These strips are not adhesive backed nor glued, so the can be reused if they aren't too worn out. Note their orientation for when you reattach them, so the will align with the hook side on the chassis.
Look at the corners and note how they are folded over and stapled. This will give you an idea of how they did it in the factory.
Start prying and pulling the staples around the whole back side of the frame. Once you've removed all the staples, you can remove the grill cloth.
End of Step 1
To be continued.
In this project, I'm recovering a Fender Rumble 25 grill in a different color Fender grill cloth.
I am writing it for the least experienced DIY'er. For the more experienced, you will likely get bored reading this.
Take detailed picture of every little detail before you disassemble the grill, These will come in handy as a reference when you reassemble the grill.
Aside from the pocket knife and my heat gun, all the tools needed are pictured above.
If you're using a Fender style grill cloth, be aware of the orientation of the stripes in the grill cloth, as this is critical to the appearance of the grill. Both the Silver/grey and the Wheat cloths have raise stripes in the primary color and a daker stripe (black or dark brown as appropriate) that run in between the raised stripe. These stripes are the horizontal stripes. There is also other highlighted primary stripe that are (vertical) 90° to the raise and dark stripes. Be careful not to conflate those stripes. Pictured is how the stripes should be oriented.
Step 1: Stripping the frame
Once you've established the orientation of the cloth and the logo (FOH Top Left), you can begin.
Start with removing the plastic Fender logo. It's held by two #1 Phillips screws. Set them aside.
Flip the grill over. Using a small screwdriver, pry up the staples holding the pull tab. You may need to use a knife to get enough clearance for the screwdriver tip, but don't pry up with the knife, as you could break the tip. You can pry the staples all the way up/off, but I just pry each end of the staple up to break them loose and then pull them out with the plyers. Save it for reinstallation. Mine was frayed at the ends and I used a lighter to singe the ends to stop it from further fraying.
Repeat this for each of the four Velcro strips on each of the corners. These strips are not adhesive backed nor glued, so the can be reused if they aren't too worn out. Note their orientation for when you reattach them, so the will align with the hook side on the chassis.
Look at the corners and note how they are folded over and stapled. This will give you an idea of how they did it in the factory.
Start prying and pulling the staples around the whole back side of the frame. Once you've removed all the staples, you can remove the grill cloth.
End of Step 1
To be continued.
Step 2: Cut and Install New Grill Cloth (Top and Bottom)
Check the orientation of the grill frame and the cloth. You will want at least two inches of additional cloth on all four sides. This is to fold over the frame and staple it in place on the back. The excess will be cut away.
In my picture I have a remnant of grill cloth from a previous grill, that is a little too oversized. I am just going to cut it off squared to the rest of the roll.
Note the two holes in the larger triangle on the top left. Those are the screw holes for the logo. That is the front/outside of the frame.
Tips: The orange shears are my fabric only shears, to preserve the cutting edges. I'll be using my JT-21 small staple gun, as it's easier to handle doing this work. 1/4" staples will work, but I'm using the 3/8" staples for slightly more security. The 1/2" staples don't always penetrate enough without leaving some of the staple above the fabric.
Place the grill cloth, face down, on a sturdy, flat, smooth surface. Center and place the frame, face down, over the grill cloth. Align the edge with one of the lines on the grill cloth.
Tip: count the number of lines on each side and get as close to the same number of line on each side, will aid in centering it on the cloth.
Now is where the grip strength and coordination will come in. You may want to have a helper with steady hands to help, but these step can be done.
Working from the top of the frame and making sure the frame stays square on the cloth, bend the fabric over the frame and staple it with one staple, approximately in the center (teal rectangle). Keep the staple closer to the outer edge of the frame.
Place the staplegun on the work surface, close at hand. Holding the frame down on the fabric, pull the fabric to one side, keeping the fabric taut top to bottom, around the frame and lined up. Don't pull too hard, as you may distort and unravel the fabric. I keep one of the brown lines parallel to the edge of the frame for reference. Place a staple one, about half an inch (+/- 1/8 inch) the same side you are pulling.
Repeat this on the other side of the center staple.
You now have three staples to hold the fabric a little more secure, you can start pulling the fabric a bit tighter as you work. I continue a couple staples on a side at a time , working to about one and a half to two inches from the end. (Staples in teal rectangle. Squared edge under the red line, parallel to brown line on fabric.)
Turn the frame and cloth around (or go to the other side of the table). Pull the fabric as tight as reasonably possible, towards the bottom of the frame. Do this watching the line on the fabric to ensure you are staying squared up on the frame. Depending on how tight the fabric is at the top, the fabric may taper in slightly at the bottom. Just ensure the taper is even. Staple in the approximate middle of the frame.
Continue working from the center out, the same as you did for the top, stopping about one and half to two inches from the ends.
Next up, the sides, corners and trimming.
To Be Continued.
Check the orientation of the grill frame and the cloth. You will want at least two inches of additional cloth on all four sides. This is to fold over the frame and staple it in place on the back. The excess will be cut away.
In my picture I have a remnant of grill cloth from a previous grill, that is a little too oversized. I am just going to cut it off squared to the rest of the roll.
Note the two holes in the larger triangle on the top left. Those are the screw holes for the logo. That is the front/outside of the frame.
Tips: The orange shears are my fabric only shears, to preserve the cutting edges. I'll be using my JT-21 small staple gun, as it's easier to handle doing this work. 1/4" staples will work, but I'm using the 3/8" staples for slightly more security. The 1/2" staples don't always penetrate enough without leaving some of the staple above the fabric.
Place the grill cloth, face down, on a sturdy, flat, smooth surface. Center and place the frame, face down, over the grill cloth. Align the edge with one of the lines on the grill cloth.
Tip: count the number of lines on each side and get as close to the same number of line on each side, will aid in centering it on the cloth.
Now is where the grip strength and coordination will come in. You may want to have a helper with steady hands to help, but these step can be done.
Working from the top of the frame and making sure the frame stays square on the cloth, bend the fabric over the frame and staple it with one staple, approximately in the center (teal rectangle). Keep the staple closer to the outer edge of the frame.
Place the staplegun on the work surface, close at hand. Holding the frame down on the fabric, pull the fabric to one side, keeping the fabric taut top to bottom, around the frame and lined up. Don't pull too hard, as you may distort and unravel the fabric. I keep one of the brown lines parallel to the edge of the frame for reference. Place a staple one, about half an inch (+/- 1/8 inch) the same side you are pulling.
Repeat this on the other side of the center staple.
You now have three staples to hold the fabric a little more secure, you can start pulling the fabric a bit tighter as you work. I continue a couple staples on a side at a time , working to about one and a half to two inches from the end. (Staples in teal rectangle. Squared edge under the red line, parallel to brown line on fabric.)
Turn the frame and cloth around (or go to the other side of the table). Pull the fabric as tight as reasonably possible, towards the bottom of the frame. Do this watching the line on the fabric to ensure you are staying squared up on the frame. Depending on how tight the fabric is at the top, the fabric may taper in slightly at the bottom. Just ensure the taper is even. Staple in the approximate middle of the frame.
Continue working from the center out, the same as you did for the top, stopping about one and half to two inches from the ends.
Next up, the sides, corners and trimming.
To Be Continued.
Yes please! I think your Rumble Club Wiki is needing that.
Good idea, Sharpie! Why didn't I think of that? See near the bottom of the Rumble Modifications section, right above the Speaker Replacements section.
Step 4: Staple Sides And Forming And Stapling The Corners.
Pulling the fabric tight at the top and bottom, get a reference on the vertical lines and how they line up on the frame. These lines should be even top and bottom. (If not, you will need to look over the top and bottom and see where the lines go off. This my require pulling the staples and re-stapling it straight.) Now follow the line to the center of that side. Press the fabric flush to the frame and pull/work the fabric around until the line you referenced is in the same position on that side center. Staple it in place.
Repeat this procedure on the other sidelining up the stripes on the frame. This is going to require pulling the fabric from the other side tighter. Staple it in place.
Flip the frame over and check that when pulled tight, the fabric lines up top to bottom on each side.
To the back again, work the fabric next to one of the side staples, so the fabric is lined up and place a staple there (approximately 1/2 inch +/- from other staple).
Now go to the other side, on the same orientation (top to top or bottom to bottom)pull the fabric tight and align the lines as before and staple it in place.
On that same side, go to the other side of the center staple and repeat the procedure, lining up the fabric. Repeat the side to side/top or bottom procedure again. You are essentially working in a circular pattern lining up and tightening the fabric as you go. Be sure to check the alignment on the front as you go.
Following the numbers, line and arrows, you should see the pattern. (Those who've worked in the automotive world will know the circular pattern.)
Continue this patter until you get to the one and a half to two inches from the corner. Now we start working one side to side, then a top or bottom to other top or bottom. Next side to side then other top or bottom, but now staple approximately a quarter inch from the previous staple. We will be closing in on the corners, while keeping the lines even.
Now for the fun part. Getting in tight on the corners.
The final couple staple for the corners will be done by the corner. We need to place a staple about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from where the fabric would fold in and meet. Do this on each side of the corner. The last staple on each side of the corner is going to be diagonally to reinforce the last staple and help form the corner.
Once you have both sides of the corner secured as shown, press the corner down flat, making the wedge as shown and staple, as in the picture below. (I ran out of 3/8" JT-21 staples and started using my T-50 full size staple gun with5/8" staples. Doesn't hurt anything, just a little more difficult to handle.)
The grill cloth is installed. It is likely a little looser than anyone may like on the front, but that will be dealt with later.
Step 5: Trimming The Grill Cloth
Approaching the corner folds at a diagonal, clip it from the outside inward.
Repeat from the other side, meeting close to the middle.
From above , like these photos, use the tip of the shears and clip the center section.
Cutting out from the middle of that corner, start cutting down the length of a side (or top/bottom), about a 1/4' in from the edge of the frame.
Continue cutting like this around all four sides and remove the excess/fall off cloth.
We're nearly done. It gets easier from here.
Pulling the fabric tight at the top and bottom, get a reference on the vertical lines and how they line up on the frame. These lines should be even top and bottom. (If not, you will need to look over the top and bottom and see where the lines go off. This my require pulling the staples and re-stapling it straight.) Now follow the line to the center of that side. Press the fabric flush to the frame and pull/work the fabric around until the line you referenced is in the same position on that side center. Staple it in place.
Repeat this procedure on the other sidelining up the stripes on the frame. This is going to require pulling the fabric from the other side tighter. Staple it in place.
Flip the frame over and check that when pulled tight, the fabric lines up top to bottom on each side.
To the back again, work the fabric next to one of the side staples, so the fabric is lined up and place a staple there (approximately 1/2 inch +/- from other staple).
Now go to the other side, on the same orientation (top to top or bottom to bottom)pull the fabric tight and align the lines as before and staple it in place.
On that same side, go to the other side of the center staple and repeat the procedure, lining up the fabric. Repeat the side to side/top or bottom procedure again. You are essentially working in a circular pattern lining up and tightening the fabric as you go. Be sure to check the alignment on the front as you go.
Following the numbers, line and arrows, you should see the pattern. (Those who've worked in the automotive world will know the circular pattern.)
Continue this patter until you get to the one and a half to two inches from the corner. Now we start working one side to side, then a top or bottom to other top or bottom. Next side to side then other top or bottom, but now staple approximately a quarter inch from the previous staple. We will be closing in on the corners, while keeping the lines even.
Now for the fun part. Getting in tight on the corners.
The final couple staple for the corners will be done by the corner. We need to place a staple about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from where the fabric would fold in and meet. Do this on each side of the corner. The last staple on each side of the corner is going to be diagonally to reinforce the last staple and help form the corner.
Once you have both sides of the corner secured as shown, press the corner down flat, making the wedge as shown and staple, as in the picture below. (I ran out of 3/8" JT-21 staples and started using my T-50 full size staple gun with5/8" staples. Doesn't hurt anything, just a little more difficult to handle.)
The grill cloth is installed. It is likely a little looser than anyone may like on the front, but that will be dealt with later.
Step 5: Trimming The Grill Cloth
Approaching the corner folds at a diagonal, clip it from the outside inward.
Repeat from the other side, meeting close to the middle.
From above , like these photos, use the tip of the shears and clip the center section.
Cutting out from the middle of that corner, start cutting down the length of a side (or top/bottom), about a 1/4' in from the edge of the frame.
Continue cutting like this around all four sides and remove the excess/fall off cloth.
We're nearly done. It gets easier from here.
One last continuation!
Step 6: Searing The Edges And Shrinking The Cloth
At this point, you'll have noticed the edges are fraying and loose, no matter how neatly you tried to cut the fabric.
No fear, if you have a heat gun near!
Using a higher heat setting and low blower speed, go around the edge from the inside, downward direction. Keep the heat gun tip constantly moving. Within a few seconds, you'll notice the material shrink and melt. When the fabric cools, it will weld to itself. Do this along all the fraying edges. On the corners, let the heat sear the frayed edges and heat the overlapped material. Immediately, while it's still hot and soft, press a piece of scrap wood down on it, to flatten it out.
While it doesn't look neat as the factory edge, you have a secure (for it's uses) edge. The factory uses a hot knife that cuts and sear the edges in one swipe. Since I don't have a hot knife, I have to do it this way. Besides, this will be on the inside and you wont see it.
You could use a lighter to sear the edges, but that is even slower and can be more inconsistent. Let alone the fire risk!
You've noticed the grill cloth is loose. I've mentioned it previously. Place the grill face up. Using the heat gun on high heat, low speed, further away from the material and constantly moving the heat gun go over the whole face of the grill. Don't neglect the side edges. We are only wanting to heat the cloth, not searing or melting it, as we did on the back. Within a few seconds, it should cool down and shrink up, tightening up like the factory cloth was.
I stapled the Velcro and the pull tab back in place and reinstalled the logo. The grill and frame are tighter, but they haven't ben compressed in place for a measure of time, like the stock grill cloth was.
The Wheat colored grill cloth does look great with the black.
In the next few weeks I should get the Blonde Tolex and brown handle, so I can finish the '63 looking Rumble.
It did take me most of the late afternoon, evening to do this, but I had to eat, feed the cats and compose this thread series. I hope you enjoy it and if you decide to do one yourself, Good Luck!
At this point, you'll have noticed the edges are fraying and loose, no matter how neatly you tried to cut the fabric.
No fear, if you have a heat gun near!
Using a higher heat setting and low blower speed, go around the edge from the inside, downward direction. Keep the heat gun tip constantly moving. Within a few seconds, you'll notice the material shrink and melt. When the fabric cools, it will weld to itself. Do this along all the fraying edges. On the corners, let the heat sear the frayed edges and heat the overlapped material. Immediately, while it's still hot and soft, press a piece of scrap wood down on it, to flatten it out.
While it doesn't look neat as the factory edge, you have a secure (for it's uses) edge. The factory uses a hot knife that cuts and sear the edges in one swipe. Since I don't have a hot knife, I have to do it this way. Besides, this will be on the inside and you wont see it.
You could use a lighter to sear the edges, but that is even slower and can be more inconsistent. Let alone the fire risk!
You've noticed the grill cloth is loose. I've mentioned it previously. Place the grill face up. Using the heat gun on high heat, low speed, further away from the material and constantly moving the heat gun go over the whole face of the grill. Don't neglect the side edges. We are only wanting to heat the cloth, not searing or melting it, as we did on the back. Within a few seconds, it should cool down and shrink up, tightening up like the factory cloth was.
I stapled the Velcro and the pull tab back in place and reinstalled the logo. The grill and frame are tighter, but they haven't ben compressed in place for a measure of time, like the stock grill cloth was.
The Wheat colored grill cloth does look great with the black.
In the next few weeks I should get the Blonde Tolex and brown handle, so I can finish the '63 looking Rumble.
It did take me most of the late afternoon, evening to do this, but I had to eat, feed the cats and compose this thread series. I hope you enjoy it and if you decide to do one yourself, Good Luck!
I like it and appreciate the effort and description, but I'm leaving mine 'as-is' lest I f---* it up.
*oul
