Hi all. I bought a Rumble 40 to join my Rumble 100. There was a post several months ago explaining how to connect the two. Does someone have the link handy, or could someone explain how these two amps can be linked. Thanks.
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Gentlemen,
Back on the Rumble Thread again and I have a question.
It's concerning the wattage listed for the Rumble 100, 200 and 500 combos.
Is the wattage RMS or Peak?
Thanks
Back on the Rumble Thread again and I have a question.
It's concerning the wattage listed for the Rumble 100, 200 and 500 combos.
Is the wattage RMS or Peak?
Thanks
Fender measures clean continuous watts @100Hz and 1,000Hz at both 8 ohms and 4 ohms. This is how they get their honest wattage ratings.
For example: The Rumble 100 is a full 100 watts @ 8 ohms into the internal 12" 8 ohm Eminence woofer. That's easy as there is no extension speaker output jack.
The Rumble 200 is 140 watts into the internal 8 ohm 15" Eminence woofer, and a full 200 watts at 4 ohms with an 8 ohm extension speaker cabinet plugged in. These are all continuous watts.
The Rumble 500 is 350@8ohms and 500@4ohms.
Fender does not publish peak wattage figures. You can double the continuous power rating to get a reasonable approximation of peak power.
R.M.S. = Root Means Squared, and is an old wattage standard for tube amps and has no meaning in modern solid state designs.
Apologies if this question is already covered. I tried a few searches and came up with nothing definitive, but this seems to be the place to ask: I would like to know the sensitivity of the driver Fender used in the Rumble 1x15 cab? I assume is the same driver in the Rumble 200 combo amp, but perhaps not. I wonder if the cab can work as a standalone in a loud rock context.
I plan on demo-ing one this weekend in store, but that won't really tell me if it can hold up on the gig. Price and weight is real nice, but that doesn't mean much if it can't cut it live. Thanks!
EDIT: I'm asking about the v3 cab specifically and the v3 line in general.
I plan on demo-ing one this weekend in store, but that won't really tell me if it can hold up on the gig. Price and weight is real nice, but that doesn't mean much if it can't cut it live. Thanks!
EDIT: I'm asking about the v3 cab specifically and the v3 line in general.
Fender doesn't publish those specs. If you call they may tell you.
It is!
Even though the combo did not require such a robust woofer, it sounded soooo good that Fender chose it for both the Rumble 200 combo and the Rumble 115 cabinet.Whenever I read "loud rock context" I'd go with a pair of Rumble 115's. In fact I'd go with a pair of anyone's 115's. Unless I am playing a small bar and covering the entire venue on my own, I always play with a pair speaker cabinets for the air movement and dispersion if nothing else.
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Tons of folks here have that rig, and also 2 x Rumble 410. I for one would go with a pair of Rumble 210's stacked vs the 410 even though they are more expensive.
Thanks Linnin for the explanation on how the Rumble series combo amps are rated in terms of wattage reference.
I've never relied on PEAK ratings and I've always understood RMS and relied on that.
The CONTINUOUS and PROGRAM terms have been new to me.
Now it makes more sense.
So now I would look at CONTINUOUS ratings.
Thanks Again,
Phil
I've never relied on PEAK ratings and I've always understood RMS and relied on that.
The CONTINUOUS and PROGRAM terms have been new to me.
Now it makes more sense.
So now I would look at CONTINUOUS ratings.
Thanks Again,
Phil
OK good. In terms of speaker ratings. When you see 'continuous', that's the wattage that speaker will happily eat all night long with out fail. The Program rating is what the speaker will take in very short bursts or peaks of output from the amp.
Amps don't have a program rating. Some companies will list peak wattage power separately from continuous. Some companies will list micro-second bursts of peak power carefully manipulated to yield astronomical figures. Other companies just make up some good looking & sounding numbers and publish those.
This kind of deceptive marketing is especially true of some company's published speaker cabinet frequency response and sensitivity specs, and is one of the main reasons Fender doesn't publish specs of that nature. People that shop by numbers and not by ear are often disappointed when the sonic truth falls far short of the published numbers.
Yes, for amplifier wattage ratings, CONTINUOUS is your huckleberry. Just always be aware that there are quite a few continuous liars out there that have never had the watts they claim to have.
Indeed!
And this is why I like to go in a bit over-sized...you know there will be plenty of power even if the truth is a bit less. I'd be fine with 200w but 500w just allows me to be secure that I'll always have the headroom and power that I need.
Doing Deep Bottom Overdrive: Gain = 10 o'clock; Contour = On; Vintage = On; Overdrive = On: Drive=10 o'clock / Level=10:30 o'clock; Bass = high noon for 0 boost/cut; Low Mids = 1:30 o'clock for about 4 dB boost; Both high mids and Treble at 11 o'clock for a mild 2-3dB cut.
Bass tone control totally rolled off. Roundwound growl still gets through.
This is really a kind of a mid 1970's King Crimson Larks Tongues in Aspic vibe. No it won't cut through anything, but would be great for recording. Specifically for re-amping with a crisp and well defined bass track to be mixed later for that intense bottom oomph with deepest growl and hot tube propulsion.
Bass tone control totally rolled off. Roundwound growl still gets through.
This is really a kind of a mid 1970's King Crimson Larks Tongues in Aspic vibe. No it won't cut through anything, but would be great for recording. Specifically for re-amping with a crisp and well defined bass track to be mixed later for that intense bottom oomph with deepest growl and hot tube propulsion.
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