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Fender Rumble Club

Yes, very light. Couple things on mine that you may want to note:1) Whomever put the bridge on over tightened it and it depressed somewhat into the wood(prob due to the nitro finish). 2) The saddles in original cheap MIM bridge fell out and the bridge sort of self destructed. The Gotoh standard is very affordable, fits the retro look and is not to high mass for the lightweight body.

Ah, so these do have a nitro finish. I had to run home and get the cash to pull the trigger and did a quick search of the specs on the way back. The Fender site states they are urethane but one of the search results was a forum post that stated the Guitar Center FSR of these were nitro.

Regarding the stock bridge, are the saddles chrome plated zinc ?

I'll be taking a closer look at everything here in a few minutes when I take it back to the bench.
 
I've got a '12 Honeyburst and it's an incredible bass. Light, sets up so dang good, tone and sustain for days and of course thru my Rumble 200c, it's nothing short of magic.

How long have you had yours ? The reason I ask is I'm curious about how the Nitro will wear. I just took a really good look at mine and the Nitro appears to be very thin. Which I am okay with. If it relics naturally I love it.

The neck appears to be finished in urethane though.
 
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How long have you had yours ? The reason I ask is I'm curious about how the Nitro will wear. I just took a really good look at mine and the Nitro appears to be very thin. Which I am okay with. If it relics naturally I love it.

The neck appears to be finished in urethane though.
Yes the finish is somewhat soft, nicks and dings easily and will relic quite nicely.
 
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it will check; crack, and craze with age.
I don't doubt it will but I'm pushing 60 and I think I'll be long gone before all that wonderful stuff happens.

I'm not sure the Nitro available today is the same as what they used on the pre CBS instruments. Just going by memory it seems like Ron Kirn mentioned on another forum thread that there is one nitro formula available today that is close to the old stuff but not quite the same. Whether Fender uses that brand I can't say.
 
It is a very thin coat of nitro that's for sure.

0530172242b.jpg
 
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I play with my thumb a lot but have never liked a tug bar, and thumb rests just get in my way.

I don't care for Chromes, but I do like GHS Precision Flats which are also stainless steel wrapped.

I've got Precision Flats on my Peavey Foundation right now. It is a used set with few hours play time on them I found in a Parts box I forgot I had. The Foundation came with a set of D'Addario black coated strings. Nylon I think they call them.

I didn't like them on the Foundation but I may put them on my new Precision just out of curiosity.

I really dig the TI Jazz Flats I put on my MusicMaster but I may try Pyramid or La Bella Flats on the Precision. We'll see.
 
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...I'm not sure the Nitro available today is the same as what they used on the pre CBS instruments. Just going by memory it seems like Ron Kirn mentioned on another forum thread that there is one nitro formula available today that is close to the old stuff but not quite the same. Whether Fender uses that brand I can't say.

There are several nitrocellulose lacquers available, each with distinctive characteristics. Some are softer and "breathe" as the wood swells and contracts with the changes in atmosphere so it is less likely to check. Others are hard and brittle(-ish). Behlen Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer is of the flexible variety but it still dries pretty hard and can be polished to infinity. They also make a "regular" lacquer which is harder. A very popular but almost twice as expensive brand is McFadden (now marketed by Seagrave.)

One of the cool things about cellulose is that it is made out of the same stuff as your bass, pretty much. Tree sap. As such, natural lacquers have an affinity for wood and soak up into the pores completely and bond in a way the water-borne and catalyzed plastics can't quite do. But... reality check!

One word: "Fullerplast."

Since what? Day 1? Fenders have had the raw wood dipped or sprayed with a catalyzed plastic. Whatever imagined or real tone-enhancing which is attributed to natural lacquers is completely cancelled by isolating it from the wood with Fullerplast. Whatever is applied over the Fullerplast is pretty much cosmetic only (and protection--catalyzed automotive urethanes are TOUGH!) Why do prized violins sound so special? The wood is dried-out and brittle. Why do some electric basses sound so special? Playing technique, set-up, and electronics--pretty much in that order. The underlying wood (or whatever) of the body and neck contribute some but not nearly as much as we musicians tend to believe.

I was checking out the pedal rack of one of my favorite bassists (a local guy, Ronnie Sanchez.) He has a Ibanez AW7 Auto Wah/Envelope filter and a Boss OC3 Super Octave but he says he really doesn't use them much. Then he demonstrated half a dozen very different tones by changing his attack, where he was hitting the strings, and some damping. Minimal knob-twisting.

Now there is no denying that some guitars and basses have some special mojo that sets them apart in tone and playability and this is real. But people who have studied this in far more detail than myself generally conclude that original build quality (neck-to-body joint is a biggie) and set-up count for more than all of the lore about woods, finishes, etc. For example, I picked up an Invalid Link Removed off Craig's List and was upset at the dull, lifeless sound. I played around with the tone knobs, then I started looking at pick-up height and other set-up things. Then I noticed slight movement at the neck/body joint. The screws were barely hand-tight. When I tightened that up, the bass's tone sprang to life.

There you have it folks--my treatise (rant) on guitar finishes. Enjoy whatever you like but understand that what you're really hearing is well-dried wood encapsulated in Fullerplast.

P.S. does it show that I'm a techie?
 
There are several nitrocellulose lacquers available, each with distinctive characteristics. Some are softer and "breathe" as the wood swells and contracts with the changes in atmosphere so it is less likely to check. Others are hard and brittle(-ish). Behlen Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer is of the flexible variety but it still dries pretty hard and can be polished to infinity. They also make a "regular" lacquer which is harder. A very popular but almost twice as expensive brand is McFadden (now marketed by Seagrave.)

One of the cool things about cellulose is that it is made out of the same stuff as your bass, pretty much. Tree sap. As such, natural lacquers have an affinity for wood and soak up into the pores completely and bond in a way the water-borne and catalyzed plastics can't quite do. But... reality check!

One word: "Fullerplast."

Since what? Day 1? Fenders have had the raw wood dipped or sprayed with a catalyzed plastic. Whatever imagined or real tone-enhancing which is attributed to natural lacquers is completely cancelled by isolating it from the wood with Fullerplast. Whatever is applied over the Fullerplast is pretty much cosmetic only (and protection--catalyzed automotive urethanes are TOUGH!) Why do prized violins sound so special? The wood is dried-out and brittle. Why do some electric basses sound so special? Playing technique, set-up, and electronics--pretty much in that order. The underlying wood (or whatever) of the body and neck contribute some but not nearly as much as we musicians tend to believe.

I was checking out the pedal rack of one of my favorite bassists (a local guy, Ronnie Sanchez.) He has a Ibanez AW7 Auto Wah/Envelope filter and a Boss OC3 Super Octave but he says he really doesn't use them much. Then he demonstrated half a dozen very different tones by changing his attack, where he was hitting the strings, and some damping. Minimal knob-twisting.

Now there is no denying that some guitars and basses have some special mojo that sets them apart in tone and playability and this is real. But people who have studied this in far more detail than myself generally conclude that original build quality (neck-to-body joint is a biggie) and set-up count for more than all of the lore about woods, finishes, etc. For example, I picked up an Invalid Link Removed off Craig's List and was upset at the dull, lifeless sound. I played around with the tone knobs, then I started looking at pick-up height and other set-up things. Then I noticed slight movement at the neck/body joint. The screws were barely hand-tight. When I tightened that up, the bass's tone sprang to life.

There you have it folks--my treatise (rant) on guitar finishes. Enjoy whatever you like but understand that what you're really hearing is well-dried wood encapsulated in Fullerplast.

P.S. does it show that I'm a techie?

YES!
Excellent post!

Tone is (mostly) in the fingers.
 

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