Fender Sting P-bass

[Rickenbassist]

Hey guys, I'm in the market for one of these and I'm just not sure where to buy one from. I'm curious if anyone out there has a particular retailer or online retailer they like over others. Also I'd be interested in seeing if there's any Pros and Con's about this bass as well. I would have bought the CV 50's but they don't come in sunburst. Any insight would be great, thanks everyone.

 

[Bongolation]

Hey guys, I'm in the market for one of these and I'm just not sure where to buy one from. I'm curious if anyone out there has a particular retailer or online retailer they like over others.

Everyone has his horror stories. Go for price.

Also I'd be interested in seeing if there's any Pros and Con's about this bass as well. I would have bought the CV 50's but they don't come in sunburst. Any insight would be great, thanks everyone.

Tons of threads here to search. I've written at some length about this bass and its challenges.

 

[XtheDeadPawn]

Search Ebay think they discontinued it a couple years ago due to it not selling.

The first time in my TB life I've heard/seen anybody ask where to get one. I can die now.

 

[lpdeluxe]

The Sting bass is still being made. The '51 (no contours) was discontinued for a few months, but is now available again in sunburst only.

 

[f.c.geil]

I really trust Elderly Instruments, they have been nothing but fair with me, and their instruments are (nearly) always perfectly set up from the word go.

I have also had very good experience with Invalid Link Removed, although I have only purchased amps from them. I would go with Elderly myself, but then, I live only 30 minutes away, and they're on the way to work for me...

I don't work at either store, either.

 

[XtheDeadPawn]

I stand corrected thank you lpdeluxe.

 

[lucas vigor]

If you get one, do what I did: Swap out the pickup for something better, change the tuners, and change the bridge.

 

[Rickenbassist]

Thanks everyone for the speedy replies. I did do a search but it yielded everything but what I was looking for. Mostly comparisons to the Mike Dirnt which is a completely different animal.

If you get one, do what I did: Swap out the pickup for something better, change the tuners, and change the bridge.

The tuners and bridge are something I could live with, but the pickup would eventually be swapped out for a Basslines.

 

[Orpheus55]

I've had the Sting bass for ten years now. I bought it at Musicians Friend. It is a great bass, with the inherent limitations Bongolation and other have described in detail. It is an old school, thick-necked instrument with a few minor cconcessions to comfort (contoured body vs slab). Used, they're about $500-600 and worth it. It's not especially light, pretty, or botique-sounding. It's a real bass and sounds like one. I'm playing it on my avatar.

 

[lpdeluxe]

If you get one, do what I did: Swap out the pickup for something better, change the tuners, and change the bridge.

I'm OK with the tuners, but some of us have serious problems with the two-saddle intonation. Mine has an American Deluxe four-saddle bridge, which allows for string-through loading, and drops right in; a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound, and TI Jazz Flats. It's the Thump King.

 

[Rickenbassist]

I've had the Sting bass for ten years now. I bought it at Musicians Friend. It is a great bass, with the inherent limitations Bongolation and other have described in detail. It is an old school, thick-necked instrument with a few minor cconcessions to comfort (contoured body vs slab). Used, they're about $500-600 and worth it. It's not especially light, pretty, or botique-sounding. It's a real bass and sounds like one. I'm playing it on my avatar.

Thanks for chiming in on this. I don't really are about the bridge all that much honestly. I've been playing Rickenbackers for the past 18 years and my primary bass right now is a Hofner HCT500/1. The bridge on that is by far harder to work with

 

[JTE]

I've had mine since February 2002. The first time I played it I heard the most alive and vibrant solid-body instrument I've ever played. The tuners are good, way better than the ones on my California Series P-Bass Special I'd had bought a couple of years earlier. While the bridge can be problematic, it's not a deal breaker. And the pickup is great, and the key reason I've kept it. The single pole-pieces for each string give it an attack that quite unlike other Fender pickups.

I never saw any reason to consider the Dirnt personally, as it's just a Precision with a different body shape. While I'm certainly not one who drinks the Kool-Aide of Dan Atkinson, I also don't think the shape of the body has anything to do with tone. So, the Dirnt to me is a very uncomfortable slab body with a punchy Duncan pickup and a BadAss on it. I have no desire for a slab body P and I don't think a BA is in any way an improvement over the vintage-style bridge. So, if I wanted or needed a Duncan 1/4 Pounder Precision, I'd just find a good solid P and put the pickup in it. The stock pickup is one of the key reasons for this bass being so useful for me. Plus it's a replica of a 1954 Precision, the year I was born. I'll likely never own a REAL '54 so this is it. Plus it's the only sunburst bass I have, and I do like the two-tone burst, but I never consider cosmetics when I buy basses.

Regarding the Sting's (and other pre '57 style Fender bass bridges). Experiment with strings and you'll likely find something that sounds good to you, feels right, and will set up to be playable. My Sting works very well with GHS Precision Flats and DR Sunbeams. The intonation on the G is a little sharp on my Peterson VS-1 tuner, but the F# at the 11th fret plays in tune with the D on the 4th string while playing the open A and D strings. The key to setting up those bridges is to balance the intonation on the pairs of strings. Mine happens to have the E and A right on, the D almost exactly on, and the G a bit sharp, but I don't have any more room to move the saddle.

A good alternative to the stock bridge is the STB bridge Fender used on the American Deluxe (I think- I lost track of FMIC's naming system changes over the last seven years). It's a direct replacement that allows STB on the pre '57 style basses.

John

 

[Bongolation]

I did do a search but it yielded everything but what I was looking for.

I've written 79 posts about this bass, it appears.

The tuners and bridge are something I could live with, but the pickup would eventually be swapped out for a Basslines.

You may not be able to live with the bridge. It has several problems that need addressing and work.

You should also not plan on using roundwounds if you expect those tiny frets to survive long.

I would not replace the '55 RI pickup (which more experienced SCPB vintage mavens that I regard as a very accurate repro) except for something with a solid spool bobbin that would not separate as the vintage style routinely does, especially when the player, not knowing any better, uses it for a thumbrest. Oops...

Neck adjustment for atmospheric flux is frequent and a big nuisance.

This is one of my primary basses, but I would not recommend it to the average player as it requires a lot of attention that the average player is not competent nor willing to do.

Never mind that inlay.

 

[JTE]

You may not be able to live with the bridge. It has several problems that need addressing and work.

Yes, it can, but there are solutions without replacing the bridge. Of course that's also dependent on your requirements. My experience is that with the two set's I've used most regularly, the GHS Precision flats and the DR Sunbeams, both 45/65/85/105, the intonation has NOT been a problem. But if you're going to buy one, make sure you're aware of the potential problems and be prepared to deal with them.

I would not replace the '55 RI pickup (which more experienced SCPB vintage mavens that I regard as a very accurate repro) except for something with a solid spool bobbin that would not separate as the vintage style routinely does, especially when the player, not knowing any better, uses it for a thumbrest. Oops...

And again, that also depends on the playing style and what specific strings you use. My experience over 30 years is that most of the fret wear attributed to rounds is more the player's responsibility. If you have a heavy touch with either hand, use coarse stainless strings (e.g. Rotosound RS-66), and tend to bend strings, they'll chew up any fret pretty quickly. But I also have seen basses played a long time with RS-66 that have little fret wear because the player uses a light touch and doesn't smear notes much. Also, nickle wound rounds won't wear as fast. Again, it's a valid warning, especially for people who think anything other than a truss rod adjustment is something to avoid at all costs.

Neck adjustment for atmospheric flux is frequent and a big nuisance.

Hmm, I haven't had much need to adjust mine, it's one of the more stable necks I've ever owned.

This is one of my primary basses, but I would not recommend it to the average player as it requires a lot of attention that the average player is not competent nor willing to do.

And this just might be the key- I've spent a lot of time working on instruments (having managed a guitar store for 11 years), and I'm not afraid to pull off the pickguard and torque the truss rod if it needs it twice a year or so. Or to take care of the pickup and be aware of the delicate nature of them. Or to fiddle with the saddles to optimize intonation. Definitely NOT for the "I'm afraid to adjust my truss rod" player.

Never mind that inlay.

That was SUCH a point of contention on the FDP when they came out. So much whining about the "Stinglay", but I never pay attention to it when I'm playing it.


John

 

[dvh]

I've written 79 posts about this bass, it appears.


You may not be able to live with the bridge. It has several problems that need addressing and work.

You should also not plan on using roundwounds if you expect those tiny frets to survive long.

I would not replace the '55 RI pickup (which more experienced SCPB vintage mavens that I regard as a very accurate repro) except for something with a solid spool bobbin that would not separate as the vintage style routinely does, especially when the player, not knowing any better, uses it for a thumbrest. Oops...

Neck adjustment for atmospheric flux is frequent and a big nuisance.

This is one of my primary basses, but I would not recommend it to the average player as it requires a lot of attention that the average player is not competent nor willing to do.

Never mind that inlay.

The Sting bass is not much different from the 51 reissue which I've owned for four years now.

Your points seem way overblown, IMHO. Mine is rock solid and has presented no problems. Intonation difficult? It's no problem to get it 75% there. If that amount of difference can be detected by anyone in any real world situation...

Stock pick-up is fine as well....

YMMV

 

[Bongolation]

The Sting bass is not much different from the 51 reissue which I've owned for four years now.

Not much, though there were apparently some substantial differences in neck dimensions between production runs. I can't personally confirm this.

Intonation difficult? It's no problem to get it 75% there. If that amount of difference can be detected by anyone in any real world situation...

Note I never once mentioned "intonation," which I view as you do (largely as a bubba obsession) but for somewhat different technical reasons. There are substantial chronic bridge nuisances irrespective of this, most of which are usually curable one way or the other by a competent tech.

Stock pick-up is fine as well....

It's fine but prone to coming apart if provoked. I've seen quite a few.

Neck adjustment is a hassle (remove the pickguard or neck -- your choice...how is this not a nuisance?), and fretwear is a problem with vintage frets with roundwounds.

Note that I didn't mention 60Hz noise, which can be a terrific annoyance in some circumstances. Sometimes no problem.

People can remain oblivious to instrument shortcomings up to a point, but I think the large majority of players would be happier with a later Precision. There is such a thing as progress.

Though the Sting was my primary bass for a few years, I find that with time I am more comfortable with the convenience of the "regular" Precision. It's just hugely less effort to keep in trim.

 

[Rickenbassist]

I currently own a 83 Rickenbacker 4003 with the same high silver content frets the 4001 had, a 96 4003, and a Hofner HCT500/1 (strung with labella flats). I've been using round wound strings for 18 years and learned to adapt my playing to have a much lighter touch. Also all three of those basses are murderous to intonate. The Hofner especially so. The bridge on the Sting or the 51' RI bass can in no way possible be as hard as what I have. You have to take the the bridge on the RICs apart just to make a slight adjustment. Also to adjust the truss rods on my 83 RIC, I have to take the guard off. I needn't mention the amount of work I have to do to get the Hofner right, and the neck on that moves once or twice a month. I'm used to temperamental gear. No Problem. Anyway I'd be stringing the Sting P-Bass with DR 40-100s Lo-Riders, that's a pretty light gauge and with today's technology i'm sure the "vintage" frets can handle it otherwise every instrument Fender makes would need re-fretting.

 

[mp40smg]

Ummm. What am I missing here? Daddy's is an authorized Fender dealer. What is going on here?

 

[Rickenbassist]

Ummm. What am I missing here? Daddy's is an authorized Fender dealer. What is going on here?

The Warwick, RI store closed. I no longer work for them and I forgot that that was under my name.

 

[millsbass5]

I would check out Dan Atkinson Basses. Although I didn't check his site,I would imagine he could make you something even better in that style (Your're welcome,Dan). Definitely more bang for your buck.


Here's the site:

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