• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

#422
Patch came out pretty good, albeit darker. Starting on fretwork. Leveling first, then crowning.

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: AGH and smithcreek
#424
Mostly done with fretwork. Ran out of time for the evening. Pretty close though!

Masked off wood, crowned frets with 3-in-1 file (medium file), sanded 400/600/800/000 steel wool/1200 and hit it with dremel buffing pad. I need to pick up some car wax to complete it.

Applied light mineral oil to board.

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: smithcreek
#427
PDX Rich said:
How very convenient that the pickup route exposed the control cavity. One less thing to drill....... ]
Click to expand...
Luckily your pickups mount with 4 screws instead of just 2 in the middle.... If that were the case you might have a fairly major headache.
That happened to me on my last build... I drilled from the controls cavity, up into the pickup route and the dang hole entered dead center of the pickup :( ....the screw had nothing but air to grab... Had to do some tricky patch& re-drill.
looking good BTW!:)
 
#428
Rôckhewer said:
Luckily your pickups mount with 4 screws instead of just 2 in the middle.... If that were the case you might have a fairly major headache.
That happened to me on my last build... I drilled from the controls cavity, up into the pickup route and the dang hole entered dead center of the pickup :( ....the screw had nothing but air to grab... Had to do some tricky patch& re-drill.
looking good BTW!:)
Click to expand...

Ouch. Yeah I must say I was alarmed when I felt that bit of wood fall away. Definitely noted as luck on my part that I have 100% of the cavity floor to work with.

And thanks! Entering the home stretch with all major power tool work done...

Edit: well, 95% of the cavity floor. 100% screw coverage though! Reminds me, I need to find some gold wood screws that are short enough...
 
Last edited:
#432
No bass progress this weekend since I really needed to address my bench. I've been using some awful ply as a top for months now and needed something more stable and level.

So, I decided to go with a double layer of 3/4" mdf and 1/8" hardboard as a replaceable top. I am not sure if I want to double stick tape the hardboard or screw it in. Either way, it is a huge improvement. I also routed a couple clamp slots using my soapbar pickup template. :)

I also got two motorcycle rides in.

image.jpg

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: AGH
#435
#437
Canadian APII said:
Beautiful progress. I'd go with a DA sander on the flats then hand sand the edges. Just to ease the arm workout. I just noticed you are going with your own headstock design. Good on you. Appropriate I would say.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I have a 5" random orbital sander that does nicely on the flat bits. It is the purpleheart curves/edges that presents a challenge! I have sanding sponges and sponge pads for that. It'll just take some time. I think I understand why folks like ash or alder bodies with skinny topwoods now. The high janka woods are a bear to work with hand tools. ;) Either way, I am happy with the purpleheart.

The headstock... well, it is certainly not what I'll be going with moving forward, but it is (in my eyes) appropriate for the long headstock. I just couldn't put myself through carving a mustache. :) I have an Aria, I love it, it can keep its headstock design! :P

And thanks! I am getting so close to wrapping up! This project has given me the confidence to continue on and improve my skills.
 
#438
Canadian APII said:
Curious what your plan for pore filler is? Will you use a darker filler to emphasize the grain?
Click to expand...

This is an excellent question. And the answer is, yes indeed! I want to go for a dark filler as I think it'll really pop most everything. My followup question would be, as I am on the fence regarding filler, is, "do you have any recommendations?" I hear good things about StewMac's products, but it is hard for me to justify the cost and shipping. There has to be a widely-available sealer/filler that will do a worthy job.
 
#439
PDX Rich said:
This is an excellent question. And the answer is, yes indeed! I want to go for a dark filler as I think it'll really pop most everything. My followup question would be, as I am on the fence regarding filler, is, "do you have any recommendations?" I hear good things about StewMac's products, but it is hard for me to justify the cost and shipping. There has to be a widely-available sealer/filler that will do a worthy job.
Click to expand...
Filler is such a personal thing. So many substances can be used. Probably the cheapest is tinted autobody fill. I have never used that. I have been told it works well. Most wood working stores sell pints of high solids and tinted "sanding sealer". That is probably your safest bet. Totally clear sanding sealer can be had also. Some people use tinted or clear epoxy spread with a steel or plastic spreader. This can be had at most hobby shops in small amounts and available in curing times from five minutes to twenty four hours. Maybe the way to go if you chose a clear epoxy finish.
 
#440
Canadian APII said:
Filler is such a personal thing. So many substances can be used. Probably the cheapest is tinted autobody fill. I have never used that. I have been told it works well. Most wood working stores sell pints of high solids and tinted "sanding sealer". That is probably your safest bet. Totally clear sanding sealer can be had also. Some people use tinted or clear epoxy spread with a steel or plastic spreader. This can be had at most hobby shops in small amounts and available in curing times from five minutes to twenty four hours. Maybe the way to go if you chose a clear epoxy finish.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I think I'll head over to my local woodworking store and see what they have in tinted filler/sealer. I've read up on epoxy, but I'd rather not go that route this time around, despite the good things I've heard.

I was considering using the Tru Oil slurry approach, but I think it would have adverse effects on the maple and blur my transition lines a bit.

So, my goal is to find an easy to apply dark filler that will not cause issue with Tru Oil. Hopefully, that will be easy to accomplish.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back