first build is about to begin!

[eleonn]

weeeeell I was looking some elrick neckthru basses pics the other day and saw how it looks the different woods at the back of the neck when they start to disappear or fade at the end of the body as in here.

Invalid Link Removed

I wonder if that would look fine but the middle of the neck or at the end close to the headstock ...it would have to be planned carefully to not end up with a piece of ****.

 

[tribal3140]

sorry, not 1.5
4/4 for the lenght of the blank and 1/2" ear on each side of the headstock
thats 1"



the blank is

1/8" holly x2 = 1/4"
3/8" pheart x 2= 3/4"
1/16" hollyx2 = 1/8"
1 pc black limba = 1/4"
so 5/8" and 3/4" =1 3/4"
+ 2" of wenge on the outsides =
3 & 3/4" which is right around where I want to be on a 5 strin for shaping

I hope my math is right, I feel like i have cotton for brains right now!
then I'll add the other 1/2"x2 for "ears"

they arent going to run the whole length, they will be clued on after the scarf joing to tie it together

Remember I have a cold and am somewhat delusional today!




and Eleonn
that is just plain confusion
I am not quite getting what you're saying??????????????????????????????????

 

[eleonn]

Eleonn that is just plain confusion
I am not quite getting what you're saying??????????????????????????????????

It's not easy to explain it with just words. Lets try an example... you have an wenge/maple/wenge neck with maple blank of 4cm and wenge blanks of 1cm each and the neck will be 6cm wide close to the body and 3cm at the headstock. As the neck becomes thinner close to the headstock at some point (having in mind the measures I'm assuming it should have at the middle of the neck) you will run out of wenge right? As you run out of wenge on each side of the neck a figure is going to start to show up. Those figures are the ones what Wilser refers to when he said: "...The issue here is that when you start the taper these will disappear towards the nut side of the neck, and this, IMO, looks like careless planning ...of course, this look may have been your intention." This is the same thing that happens with the back of the necks of Elricks (and a lot others) basses.

What I was thinking is that those figures on each side of the neck may look fine. Maybe not close to the body or at the middle of the neck but close to the headstock.

 

[tribal3140]

If I get you right, near the tapering of the neck where the nut would be on the other side.
I soulldnt even touch the holly, there should be a little wenge, and all if the interior lams.

Thats what I was planning.
well see if it works!

 

[Bryan R. Tyler]

eleonn- just so you know, that Elrick is a set-neck, not a neck-though.

 

[eleonn]

eleonn- just so you know, that Elrick is a set-neck, not a neck-though.

Yup!! ...I put the wrong address for the picture but I wasn't trying to show the type of neck but the figuring of the different wood layers on it which looks just like the neckthru ones so I didn't change it (I can be a bit lazy sometimes!! ).

 

[tribal3140]

thats what was seeing too, hence the confusion, the other woods were the " tone block"
wood to make the SN get to the desired thickness to fit the slot!

Makes much more sense now!

I glued up the wenge on the outside of my neck making the blank complete.
Also I glued up the water stain korina blank. and tomorrow I will be glueing its neck up !

wenge, bub, 5A flame, bub and repeat to other side!
It will be for the one with the sapele body.

the , wenge, holly, pheart, bl limba will be for the korina bass!

now what to do with those tops and lams!
mwahhhahahaa

 

[vindy500]

tribal, do you reckon you could do a step by step tutorial of the multi layer neck, cutting the wood for the neck ect, that could be very helpful

 

[tribal3140]

progress!

I have the korina body for #2 glued up.
the rest of the neck lams glued up for the korina one
and the neck lams for the sapele one being glued (curing)

!!
ok you want a step by step from me eh?
well I'll try!

1.) I rough cut all of the stringers in my plan.
2.) and then ran them through the drum sander to thier desired thickness.
3.) Layed them out to see if it was visually correct and again, and again... I am a perfectionist and sometimes it can be very time consuming. [ what I actually did was to lay tem out and take a quick clam to the 2 ends, put it up on its side and looked at it from afar]

4.) then when the time was right I put them across my pipe pony clamps (pictured)

and layed the all on thier sides, gave them nice thick zigzags of titebond 1. and brushed them out so every mm of space was covered with glue (both sides of every piece to be glued- time consuming but it produces great results)

then put it into the clamps with a 3x3 of wood on the outsides to distrubute the pressure evenly. I used these neck blanks of figured quartered bubinga. (because they work perfectly but they are quite expensive to do this with, I have a few of those aluminum 90 degree angles on order ,to replace the bubinga.

also in the clamp I put a wood piece onder and above to clamp to hold all of the lams down. if you dont do this make sure you use extra thickness because no matter how hard you try things will shift slighly. (& you 'll have to joint or sand it even)
You can see it in the pic of the wenge/bubinga, flame maple neck.
and then clamp the hell out of it. I use clamps everywhere I can.

after its all glued up I run it over the jointer until smooth or into the drum sander if theres not much squeezeout- but there was both times. I also took a scraper to the glue specs to speed up the jointing/drum sanding of the neck.

all in all
this method is slow but very effective, what is slow is the brushing of the glue in every surface and aligning everything but I am making 9 pc necks my first go`round and am doing pretty well so far.
next step is the scarf joint! and body glueing with the accents!

 

[tribal3140]

the super cool water stain on my curly korina body!

I likey likey!

and finally my template, I will be cutting out the hook in the ball for the upper horn I have penciled in.

 

[lowtide]

Gee, it must be rough having all that exotic wood hanging around. I find it easier to get a build going when the only stock I have is under the dining room table linen.

 

[pilotjones]

Interesting grain on the korina- from the end it looks like the tree was fluted longitudinally, like if it had been sawn dead flat it might have shown some kind of ribbon stripe.

The neck's looking nice.

 

[spudmaster34]

sweet

 

[tribal3140]

ever since I started this project I cant stop glueing things!
theres something wrong with me!

Heres the holly laminate for between the sapele and curly bubinga layers,
I had to send all of the wenge lams away for a bass I am haing made for NAMM.
so I have to make more or buy some black from LMI.

I consulted the guru today about how to approach my neck and how he does it (i am talking about benavente)
he recommended several thing I didnt think of!- Its good to be intouch with master luthiers they are a wealth of knowledge he also advised to go to 15 degrees on the scarf for more down pressure which I like.

theres 3 neck blanks to be sanded, and the other is a lam core. it needs either wenge of pheart to complete it.

the first is
fig'd pheart /wenge/ flame maple, curly white ash
curly white ash and wenge core
wenge, fig'd bubinga, flame maple,
and the last
wenge, holly, bl limba ,pheart

that curly white ash is awesome!
I happened upon a single board that made 6 stringers, 3 of which are pictured. the pheart on the left one is also mottle/curly.

 

[ebe9]

The neck on the far right looks really nice.

The woods contrast well.

 

[msherman]

You need to change the thread title to.....My first Run Of Basses Is About To Begin! LOL

Mike

 

[eleonn]

I consulted the guru today about how to approach my neck and how he does it (i am talking about benavente)
he recommended several thing I didnt think of!- Its good to be intouch with master luthiers they are a wealth of knowledge he also advised to go to 15 degrees on the scarf for more down pressure which I like.

Is there any way that you could share we us those recommendations so we can have them in mind too?

 

[tribal3140]

today I cutout almost all of the layer for both basses
I cut and took the necks to 3/4"
I have to thickness a few of the layers because I wasnt sure which ones I was going to use on which bass and one is going to be way too thick!.

also I need help with the neck situation on the korina/myrlte/walnut one

I know everyone likes the pheart/bl limba/holly/wenge neck but I think the other one goes better with the walnut back

anyway Pics!
tomorrow I will be cutting scarf joints I think!
T

 

[tribal3140]

more
but which one, i like the 2nd better

 

[tribal3140]

the other bass design