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first build is about to begin!
- Thread starter tribal3140
- Start date
its just figured, qsawn bubinga alternating with analine 5A flame maple, with wenge on the outside, does look nice though
they all came out nicely
I am putting one together with bloodwood, wenge and maple thats super cool!
the one with the curly white ash core is really cool in person!
I couldnt cut the scarfs today , my angle (squangle) dosent have the 15 degree mark. only from 90 to 45
weird I know.
I changed the balde in my bandsaw and re affixed the table so I am already to go on those scarf joints!
hopefully tomorrow!
they all came out nicely
I am putting one together with bloodwood, wenge and maple thats super cool!
the one with the curly white ash core is really cool in person!
I couldnt cut the scarfs today , my angle (squangle) dosent have the 15 degree mark. only from 90 to 45
weird I know.
I changed the balde in my bandsaw and re affixed the table so I am already to go on those scarf joints!
hopefully tomorrow!
eleonn said:
Typically there's much less than an inch of taper on either side of the neck, so if you have the width of your blank close to the width of the outer strings (spaced at the bridge), all you really need is about an inch of width on your outer lams, which you can then source from flatsawn 4/4 stock.
That's where I start the plan, then fill in the space between with whatever floats my boat.
alright, I smoothed out the edges of the body today and evened out that scarf for glueing, not bad.
I have to drum the bodies down because they are way too thick, I used different thickness tops than originaly planned so I have excess thickness.
I have to get a different sander though for the inside of the lower horn access, maybe that spindle I was thinking about.
I fixed the belt to the bench and it works...a pain but it works
but a spindle sander I think is the way to go or I could route the sides before the roundover bit (to the mdf template?)
recommendations?
which way to go
I have to drum the bodies down because they are way too thick, I used different thickness tops than originaly planned so I have excess thickness.
I have to get a different sander though for the inside of the lower horn access, maybe that spindle I was thinking about.
I fixed the belt to the bench and it works...a pain but it works
but a spindle sander I think is the way to go or I could route the sides before the roundover bit (to the mdf template?)
recommendations?
which way to go
Spindle sander's are great. I bought a Delta (I think it is) at Home Depot for like $99. Well worth the money, and it's one of my favorite tools to use. I also see them on Craig'sList here in the Bay Area quite a bit used for cheap.
Do you have a drill press? You could use that with a drum bit in the chuck in the meantime...
Do you have a drill press? You could use that with a drum bit in the chuck in the meantime...
nope, I have to buy that too
its lexicon to me finishing the bass so thats a definate!
I think you are right the belt sander fixed to the bench worked great but it has its limitations and I am a belt sander artist!
(I have hundreds of hours of exp carving nothces and other weird things into custom gates etc. with my sawzall and the 4x24 belt sander)
yes, a spindle sander and a drill press and I can actually finish these.
next step is
cutting the continous cover for the bubinga backed one, I am using some killer myrtle burl from the top for the walnut backed one.
I also cut out my headstock veneers the other day, I have to sand them down a little though.
and ordering the hardware, trussrod etc.
I think its wise to route the truss b4 tapering the neck.
flat sides to run along with the router attachment for flat sides.
anything else I am forgetting??????????????????????????
{I know it dosent seem like it but this is still my first build(S)!}
its lexicon to me finishing the bass so thats a definate!
I think you are right the belt sander fixed to the bench worked great but it has its limitations and I am a belt sander artist!
(I have hundreds of hours of exp carving nothces and other weird things into custom gates etc. with my sawzall and the 4x24 belt sander)
yes, a spindle sander and a drill press and I can actually finish these.
next step is
cutting the continous cover for the bubinga backed one, I am using some killer myrtle burl from the top for the walnut backed one.
I also cut out my headstock veneers the other day, I have to sand them down a little though.
and ordering the hardware, trussrod etc.
I think its wise to route the truss b4 tapering the neck.
flat sides to run along with the router attachment for flat sides.
anything else I am forgetting??????????????????????????
{I know it dosent seem like it but this is still my first build(S)!}
Id like to title this series of posts,
How not to make a scarf joint. - I have edit this because of a few posts down, the first is always the hardest 3 time is a charm!
I did it, succesfully but I think I will be making a glue jig and a router jig.
because the way I did it, it sucked.
pictures.
I came off slightly feeding it through the bandsaw which isnt that big a prob unless, you are cleaning it up with a belt sander clamped horizontally.
but I left it at 1/2" thick (the headstock piece so Id have F.U room.)
and this glueing method blew.
it kept sliding on me I ve already looked closely at wilsers thread but it looks so clean and easy there, I think I'll be emailing someone for the next 2!
but all in all it only slipped a 32nd on me
How not to make a scarf joint. - I have edit this because of a few posts down, the first is always the hardest 3 time is a charm!
I did it, succesfully but I think I will be making a glue jig and a router jig.
because the way I did it, it sucked.
pictures.
I came off slightly feeding it through the bandsaw which isnt that big a prob unless, you are cleaning it up with a belt sander clamped horizontally.
but I left it at 1/2" thick (the headstock piece so Id have F.U room.)
and this glueing method blew.
it kept sliding on me I ve already looked closely at wilsers thread but it looks so clean and easy there, I think I'll be emailing someone for the next 2!
but all in all it only slipped a 32nd on me
Attachments
this is glueing the ears on, I flexed and pulled the joint to see what kind of glue job I did and its on there, going nowhere ever so the glue job was first class, the frustration behind it economy class.
anyways, heres a closeup of the glue line I did a "behind" glue because I will be doing a headstock veneer after these are glued on.
and like I said it slipped a 32nd
I was ac tually thinking about hiding it behind a thin back headstock veneer of pyinma at 1/16 sand to 1/32nd
I have 2 more of these beasts to do then its,
trussrod-
which I was instructed to seat it with felt not silicone or caulk or glue just in case anything happens to the rod it will come out easily and not have to fight or worse!
And I just put my pool table into storage and it has a 30 year old felt on it so
whammy! I have felt forever!
anyways now its time to get intamite with the router!
still moving.
anyways, heres a closeup of the glue line I did a "behind" glue because I will be doing a headstock veneer after these are glued on.
and like I said it slipped a 32nd
I was ac tually thinking about hiding it behind a thin back headstock veneer of pyinma at 1/16 sand to 1/32nd
I have 2 more of these beasts to do then its,
trussrod-
which I was instructed to seat it with felt not silicone or caulk or glue just in case anything happens to the rod it will come out easily and not have to fight or worse!
And I just put my pool table into storage and it has a 30 year old felt on it so
whammy! I have felt forever!
anyways now its time to get intamite with the router!
still moving.
Attachments
OK Firstly I am sorry if I scared anyone from trying a scarf joint without a jig, etc.
practice makes perfect and heres the proof. I just need to oscillate like a drum sander would. When sanding the 15 degree face, [I have the belt sander clamped horizontally] and was just holding the 15 degree angle to it flat and got a pretty rough result last time, this time I moved the wood with the 15 degree angle flat (there a black marker line to let me know where the angle is and how much to take off/error room
I moved the wood up and down [while still horizontally!] and the second one took 3 minutes, the 3rd took only a minute to be PERFECT!!!
no joke Practice really does make perfect........... who knew?!
anyways, the proof is in the beef they say. or something like that
practice makes perfect and heres the proof. I just need to oscillate like a drum sander would. When sanding the 15 degree face, [I have the belt sander clamped horizontally] and was just holding the 15 degree angle to it flat and got a pretty rough result last time, this time I moved the wood with the 15 degree angle flat (there a black marker line to let me know where the angle is and how much to take off/error room
I moved the wood up and down [while still horizontally!] and the second one took 3 minutes, the 3rd took only a minute to be PERFECT!!!
no joke Practice really does make perfect........... who knew?!
anyways, the proof is in the beef they say. or something like that
Attachments
and one more without a flash, remember I havent taken down the headstocks to 5/8" or just over yet so that small overhang on #2 will sand off.
and heres a pic of the glueing of my holly lam to the headstock top, buckeye burl will go on top of that
.
and yea once again I am using a expensive exotic as my pressure distributor
this time pernambuco from ages ago. I tried chestnut block first but the chestnut with large pores absorbed too much of the down force so I swapped it.
Pics
The only reason I am doing this in an excruciating play by play is to possibly help someone out there a first timers first build step by boring step! with lots 'o pics for refrence
and heres a pic of the glueing of my holly lam to the headstock top, buckeye burl will go on top of that
.
and yea once again I am using a expensive exotic as my pressure distributor
this time pernambuco from ages ago. I tried chestnut block first but the chestnut with large pores absorbed too much of the down force so I swapped it.
Pics
The only reason I am doing this in an excruciating play by play is to possibly help someone out there a first timers first build step by boring step! with lots 'o pics for refrence
Attachments
tribal3140 said:
***?!?!? we don't need no STINKIN' JIG!!!
seriously, though, if you're careful in aligning and compensate while tightening the clamps, you can get a near perfect scarf joint without a clamping jig. I've never used one, actually. I use staples or screws to help align in the waste side of the blank.
Aint it fun when you don't know what you're doing?
These pics look familiar......and this phrase i heard Keifer Sutherland say over the weekend keeps playing in my head over and over...."sometimes you gotta go through something before you can figure out why you did it in the first place."
Wish I was screwing up scarf joints instead of sharpening pencils at my internship right now. Cheers man! Looking well on your way!
These pics look familiar......and this phrase i heard Keifer Sutherland say over the weekend keeps playing in my head over and over...."sometimes you gotta go through something before you can figure out why you did it in the first place."
Wish I was screwing up scarf joints instead of sharpening pencils at my internship right now. Cheers man! Looking well on your way!
some progress...
I finally finish shaped the bodies (and thicknessed them again) where I want them and now I need to thickness a few of the layers and its glue time
but As you'd all expect I made a few changes along the way.
(insert sigh here).
I was looking at that walnut back for the myrtle burl bass and it was boring me to tears.
So I decided to make it a laminate 3/32"
and make the back a defect set of amboyna burl.
The orange will look striking against the purpleheart, fl. maple, fl. ash neck.
and It wont sell for crap so I am using it!
el photos es attached.
this is the final lineup for these
bass # one. (woods)
sapele body
wenge, fl bubinga, fl maple neck.
buckeye burl top with holly under accent
beeswing bubinga back with wenge under accent.
Bass #2
water stain korina body
myrtle burl top with holly under accent
amboyna burl with walnut under accent.
purpleheart, flame maple, wenge, flame ash neck
this is final I am to glue the whole thing together next week and I am using a 1/2" roundover for the edges.
they both will have mec dual jazz pickups and a MEC preamp wired 2 band.
gold hardware.
ultralight tuners
LMI trussrods.
one will have a super narrow old epiphone bridge with 16mm spacing
one will have a neutrix locking jack too
the other will have a narrow hipshot A.
both fretted
both wenge fingerboards.
did I forget anything?
I finally finish shaped the bodies (and thicknessed them again) where I want them and now I need to thickness a few of the layers and its glue time
but As you'd all expect I made a few changes along the way.
(insert sigh here).
I was looking at that walnut back for the myrtle burl bass and it was boring me to tears.
So I decided to make it a laminate 3/32"
and make the back a defect set of amboyna burl.
The orange will look striking against the purpleheart, fl. maple, fl. ash neck.
and It wont sell for crap so I am using it!
el photos es attached.
this is the final lineup for these
bass # one. (woods)
sapele body
wenge, fl bubinga, fl maple neck.
buckeye burl top with holly under accent
beeswing bubinga back with wenge under accent.
Bass #2
water stain korina body
myrtle burl top with holly under accent
amboyna burl with walnut under accent.
purpleheart, flame maple, wenge, flame ash neck
this is final I am to glue the whole thing together next week and I am using a 1/2" roundover for the edges.
they both will have mec dual jazz pickups and a MEC preamp wired 2 band.
gold hardware.
ultralight tuners
LMI trussrods.
one will have a super narrow old epiphone bridge with 16mm spacing
one will have a neutrix locking jack too
the other will have a narrow hipshot A.
both fretted
both wenge fingerboards.
did I forget anything?
Attachments
I have all of these little pale moon ebony leftovers so I have decided to make nuts out of them.
so these are my fingerboards and my pale moon ebony nuts.
courtesy of larray at.... (imagine a guy with a trumpet , cupped ....mwuah mwuah mwauh mwuahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.)
no wait.... courtesy of me!
so these are my fingerboards and my pale moon ebony nuts.
courtesy of larray at.... (imagine a guy with a trumpet , cupped ....mwuah mwuah mwauh mwuahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.)
no wait.... courtesy of me!
Attachments
Can nuts be done from wood? Isn't wood a soft material to support the tension of the stings on a nut?
ebony nuts are common, along with bone, graphite, plastic, and brass.
the PM ebony it easily dense enough and I will be stabilizing it too. but If I can find good brass nuts I may just switch!
for the buckeye one.
the other bass is getting PM ebony binding on the fboard so it'll stay Pm ebony.
the PM ebony it easily dense enough and I will be stabilizing it too. but If I can find good brass nuts I may just switch!
for the buckeye one.
the other bass is getting PM ebony binding on the fboard so it'll stay Pm ebony.
