your thread says 'first build about to being', but it looks more like you're preparing for NAMM with an army of basses! good luck.
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first build is about to begin!
- Thread starter tribal3140
- Start date
some mo progs
headstock lams for what I am going to call the Rstar shape
which is the hook one
I am going with a wenge laminate and layering back on the cutoff of the extra neck thickness (in the background, )then the myrtle burl will be the top.
and I tapered the fingerboards and bound the one
headstock lams for what I am going to call the Rstar shape
which is the hook one
I am going with a wenge laminate and layering back on the cutoff of the extra neck thickness (in the background, )then the myrtle burl will be the top.
and I tapered the fingerboards and bound the one
Attachments
![headstock lams [2].jpg](/data/attachments/2606/2606420-c491bae55f6a2b3e54d67ecd25d363f4.jpg?hash=xJG65V9qKz)
and the top and accent for rstar #1 is glued
and the back and accent on the other which will be called munchbass #1
I have to thickness them both again!
I am going to 1/16 with the walnut on rstar#1
and the body to 1"
and the amb burl back to 7/32"
and same with munchbass #1
its about double the weight of the rstar!
the bubinga and sapele is heavy so those will both be taken down, becasue the top is featherlight (buckeye burl) and the accent is holly, also very light!
the korina and the myrtle is soooooooooooooooooooooooo light!
I am going to go a little thicker on these 2 to about 1 5/8"+ - a 16 th. finished
I like a meaty bass.
oh yea, your probably wondering about the cutout.
well I was trying to do a couninuous cavity cover but the first try never works out and I have a 1/8 ina small spot
so If can fix it am make it work ... YEA! but the odds are I have extra from that back , I'll make a new one and route the edges clean.
the other one is pretty good (amboyna burl) it actually may work!
if not I have extra of that too!
and the back and accent on the other which will be called munchbass #1
I have to thickness them both again!
I am going to 1/16 with the walnut on rstar#1
and the body to 1"
and the amb burl back to 7/32"
and same with munchbass #1
its about double the weight of the rstar!
the bubinga and sapele is heavy so those will both be taken down, becasue the top is featherlight (buckeye burl) and the accent is holly, also very light!
the korina and the myrtle is soooooooooooooooooooooooo light!
I am going to go a little thicker on these 2 to about 1 5/8"+ - a 16 th. finished
I like a meaty bass.
oh yea, your probably wondering about the cutout.
well I was trying to do a couninuous cavity cover but the first try never works out and I have a 1/8 ina small spot
so If can fix it am make it work ... YEA! but the odds are I have extra from that back , I'll make a new one and route the edges clean.
the other one is pretty good (amboyna burl) it actually may work!
if not I have extra of that too!
Attachments
not to condemn your work, but I've had much better results glueing the blank and THEN cutting out the body outline. But different methods work for different people. Looking great so far. You may need to open up a store once you're done with all those basses!
I know everyone does it differently, This time around I wanted to try it this way then next time, the other way.
and then I'll see.
I am quite good at cutting out the shaped under the bandsaw so this went very smoothly, and I left everything wider than its going to end up so there F.U room.
the next step is the hard stuff
truss, frets, pups, etc.
and then I'll see.
I am quite good at cutting out the shaped under the bandsaw so this went very smoothly, and I left everything wider than its going to end up so there F.U room.
the next step is the hard stuff
truss, frets, pups, etc.
yeah, so a couple weeks ago i hear Todd's gonna build a bass. I go to his shop to grab some more tops and he's like "dude...check this body core i did for this bass, and this top's gonna go on this one over here, and this is the backplate for the third..." I'd say he's got the "bug".
Couldnt do both today! I used a 3/8" roundover to re
move bulk then microplaned the carving on the munch (buckeye/sapele/bubinga)
btw, I love the smell of sapele! sweet but not sickly sweet like redwood ...tangent
I used a 1/4" roundover seated deep so that my carve will be even! I was toying with the idea of a 1/2" roundover pulled up high so that it arches deep to the top and I may on the next one but I got a really uniform sharp/deep carve this way
that I can carve this one out tomorrow!
both look great! so far.
move bulk then microplaned the carving on the munch (buckeye/sapele/bubinga)
btw, I love the smell of sapele! sweet but not sickly sweet like redwood ...tangent
I used a 1/4" roundover seated deep so that my carve will be even! I was toying with the idea of a 1/2" roundover pulled up high so that it arches deep to the top and I may on the next one but I got a really uniform sharp/deep carve this way
that I can carve this one out tomorrow!
both look great! so far.
Attachments
another view and
the top for rstar #3
I already have the neck built ( its the wenge/holly,bl limba,holly,pheart ...repeat)
glued up and scarfed already I was just waiting for a nice top that was defected enough to not sell but nice enough to use
bingo
koa crotch with a knot that will more than likely dissepear in carving (it angles out of the template to the other side)
the fingerboard is curly katalox 2 tone super 5a curl
will also be bound in katalox from the same board, (actually the succesive slice at 3/16"), reversing the sap on the heart side and the heart on the sap side!
I dont know what the back will be yet I have to look through my "collection" for a defective but not really set for that!
the top for rstar #3
I already have the neck built ( its the wenge/holly,bl limba,holly,pheart ...repeat)
glued up and scarfed already I was just waiting for a nice top that was defected enough to not sell but nice enough to use
bingo
koa crotch with a knot that will more than likely dissepear in carving (it angles out of the template to the other side)
the fingerboard is curly katalox 2 tone super 5a curl
will also be bound in katalox from the same board, (actually the succesive slice at 3/16"), reversing the sap on the heart side and the heart on the sap side!
I dont know what the back will be yet I have to look through my "collection" for a defective but not really set for that!
Attachments
They're getting there! Nice progress.
Is that katalox board cut from the same piece as my fretboard, or was that the one that was too small? It's gorgeous! Cool looking koa, too.
Is that katalox board cut from the same piece as my fretboard, or was that the one that was too small? It's gorgeous! Cool looking koa, too.
that was the board that was 3 1/2 wide and 29 long. so, no, not yours. yours willbe just as good!!!! 
ok while double checking my measurements for the neck pockets and control cav.
I happened upon this slighty defective awesom maple burl set Its mostly clean in my template area so I am going to make this the final piece in my rstar #2!
so that will be
5 string 35" scale
koa crotch top
wenge veneer 1/8"
flame maple body
wenge veneer 1/8"
5A maple burl back
curly katalox fingerbaord
wenge, holly, bl limba, pheart neck.
same , mec dualjazz pup
hipshot A bridge
mec bec IIe pre 9V
gotoh ultralights
lmi truss.
and dunlop flush locks.
who sees a dragons face in the maple burl!?!
yep I've got the bug!
I happened upon this slighty defective awesom maple burl set Its mostly clean in my template area so I am going to make this the final piece in my rstar #2!
so that will be
5 string 35" scale
koa crotch top
wenge veneer 1/8"
flame maple body
wenge veneer 1/8"
5A maple burl back
curly katalox fingerbaord
wenge, holly, bl limba, pheart neck.
same , mec dualjazz pup
hipshot A bridge
mec bec IIe pre 9V
gotoh ultralights
lmi truss.
and dunlop flush locks.
who sees a dragons face in the maple burl!?!
yep I've got the bug!
Attachments
Mark Wilson
Supporting Member
