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First Build: SC5 Headless

#181
Here are some progress shots of the carving. This is still rough, but coming along nicely. You may also notice that I've cleaned up the little piece of transition block that was sticking out as well as routed the control cavity.

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Here is a better shot of the transition. It's still straight right now. I have to pick up a rounded chisel and a curved scrapper before I can smooth it out any more. I might just keep it straight though. It's a little different (which I like), and functionally it still gives you better access to the higher "frets". My biggest challenge so far has been to not nick the neck since it's already been shaped. I've been using lots and lots of tape over the neck to help protect it.

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The tummy cut is actually being more difficult than I thought it would be. The line on the back looks smooth, but I'm having a hard time smoothing out the line on the edge. That area needs some more work.

I've made two control cavity covers so far and I'm not sure I like either. I was going to go with Jatoba thinking it would tie into the neck laminate, but I think the color is just too different. Then I made one out of Maple thinking that it would tie into the recent carving. I'm not sure I like that either. I might just end up using black plastic or a piece of Ebony. I would have to buy another piece of Ebony though (if I can get something that small as a cut off or piece of scrap). I don't want to buy a full fingerboard and waste it for a control cavity cover.

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#182
Re belly cut, what I liked using for that kind of curve is a long 1" wide strip of fine sandpaper held by hand at the two ends. You can get a lot of control that way, and can do light shaping adjustments.

Re cover, do you have any ash leftover from the neck? I think it might pick up the texture from above and unify nicely, in a not-standing-out-but-just-fits kind of way.
 
#184
pilotjones said:
Re belly cut, what I liked using for that kind of curve is a long 1" wide strip of fine sandpaper held by hand at the two ends. You can get a lot of control that way, and can do light shaping adjustments.
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Thanks. I'll give it a shot.

pilotjones said:
Re cover, do you have any ash leftover from the neck? I think it might pick up the texture from above and unify nicely, in a not-standing-out-but-just-fits kind of way.
Click to expand...

Good idea, but I don't have any leftover pieces that are big enough. I may be able to find a close match though
 
#185
MPU said:
I'd use black plastic cavity cover. I've never liked wooden covers if they are not exactly matched to back wood and grain.
Marko
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I agree to a point. I don't like the wood covers that are the same species of wood as the back of the body that aren't a perfect match. I just don't like the "it looks close" look. And that's really too bad because I have a piece of Chechen that would work great for a cover ...

However, I think wood covers made with a contrasting piece of wood that ties into the rest of the bass so that it doesn't stand out as being different can look good.
 
#187
MPU said:
Sure, as long as it ties to something. I'd say something with veneer stripes on the sides of the cover would look nice to me. Still, with black hardware black can't be beaten.
Marko
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I'm pretty sure I can find a scrap piece of ebony big enough to do the cover for less than $10 if I decide to go black. Why ebony instead of plastic? Just because I can. :bassist:
 
#189
barnaclebeau said:
That looks fantastic! I'd use a curved cabinet scraper to smooth out the bump in the gut cut.
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Thanks Adam!
I hit it with the RO sander last night and it looks better, but still not perfect. I may have to draw it out in CAD and make some paper templates to give me lines to follow. I'm not sure how a curved cabinet scrapper would help in the gut cut (since it's a flat cut). Could you explain?
I'll be getting a curved scrapper anyway for the transition. I have an idea that should let me get it right down to a smooth transition to the neck.
 
#190
fretless_guy said:
...I'm not sure how a curved cabinet scrapper would help in the gut cut (since it's a flat cut). Could you explain? ...
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Ah, didn't realize it was flat. In that case, a straight cabinet scraper :) I find cabinet scrapers indispensible for most parts of building, get a bunch! When you get your scrapers, I recommend you get a flat bastard-cut file and an edge burring rod, and ONLY use those for scraper maintenance! a fresh edge makes all the difference in how well they work. Here's a good article.

Using Card Scrapers
 
#193
LowEndMan2112 said:
Any updates on this? Fell off the wagon and just caught up on this thread again! They're looking real nice, and so does your Pedulla ;)
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Only a little. I'm going pretty slow on the carving. I'm almost down to where I want to be on the neck transition.

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Once I have this done, I'll level the fingerboard and polish it up to a nice shine. Then I'll be on to final sanding and finishing.
 
#195
I switched things up a little this weekend. I took a break from sanding and lined the cavities with copper foil. There's no secret here. Just take your time and cut pieces to fit as required.

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I also decided to take on a little extra work and started some wood covers for the pickups. These are about 1/8" oversized right now. I'm hoping to have a friend cut them on a CNC mill.

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and now back to more sanding ...
 

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