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First Build: SC5 Headless

#201
Everything except for the bridge is here!
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I'll need to make up a control cavity mock up to see if I can fit the controls, preamp and batteries in there. Stay tuned!
 
#203
So the bridge installation didn't go exactly as planned.

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I learned that a 0.070" pilot hole isn't big enough for the bridge mounting screws when going into Maple. It worked ok for the Ash.

So today I'll be looking for threaded inserts. I think I'll just drill the holes out, install threaded inserts and use machine screws in the bridge.
 
#206
steve_rolfeca said:
I find that a little soap on the threads helps. So does going slow, and backing up occasionally.
Click to expand...

roberthabraken said:
I use some wax and, with hardwood like maple, I drill the holes the size of the shaft of the screw (without the thread), so only the thread has to dig into the wood. If you do it like this, no problems at all with screwing into hardwood.
Click to expand...

All good points. I used a little wax one one of the screws for the headpiece since it was going into Jatoba. I just didn't think Maple would be that hard to screw.

I found this in McMaster-Carr's website. It's a handy little reference for wood screws.

Link Removed

These should work.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90016a007/=h5qxvb
 
#210
I never would have thought bridge screws would give me the most trouble on my diary build. Three stripped inserts later (of course, the last one being stuck half way in the bass) I've decided to just drill everything out and get a piece of hardwood dowel. Ugh!
 
#211
Minor success!

In light of the problems I'm having with the bridge screws I decided to move on to something else. I have good news! The strap buttons (Schaller locking) have successfully been installed...LOL!

Next up is drilling holes for the controls, jack, pickup wire and bridge ground. Since things are very tight, I'm not taking any chances. I have access to a 3D printer at work, so I designed a template that fits right in the control cavity to locate the holes. Even though the EMG preamp is small, the board mounted on the mid pot is proving to be a pain. I've had to change my original control layout but I think I've found an arrangement that will work.
 
#214
fretless_guy said:
Got a little more work done today. Here is the first body with the fingerboard that I'll be using on it.
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Here you can kind of see the veneer laminates under the fingerboard.
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Here is the back with the Jatoba electronics cover.
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And just for the heck of it, here's a shot of one of the cavities that I made a little too deep. I'm building up layers of epoxy to bring it back to where it should be.
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Other than some sanding on the body, this one is on hold until I get my truss rods in. I should have been able to order them by now, but unfortunately PayPal isn't playing nice. :rollno:
Click to expand...

Interesting, the epoxy build up doesn't look like a mistake, it looks more like a high level of detail. I have found my first build (which I'm working on right now) mistakes are being turned into positives.
 
#217
Arnie said:
Interesting, the epoxy build up doesn't look like a mistake, it looks more like a high level of detail. I have found my first build (which I'm working on right now) mistakes are being turned into positives.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Although, as you pointed out, the fix for this looks good, its going to be covered up with copper foil so in the end it doesn't really matter. It was a good lesson to learn though. When working on multiple bodies that are different thicknesses, it's probably wise to keep them separate so you remember to double check machinery settings before you start making saw dust.
 
#218
Fist step, drill out the broken wood screws and brass insert. I used a 1/4" two flute end mill to clears the screws and insert out. Using a standard drill bit would have been way to difficult as the point on the bit will wander off the center of the screw. Then I used a 1/2" forstner bit to clean up the holes. I'll be plugging the holes with a 1/2" dowel (maple).

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Next, tape up everything you don't want to get glue on. Dowels are cut slightly longer than required.

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Apply glue to holes and dowels. Assemble, clamp and wait.

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After a few hours you're left with this.

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Clean up with a chisel, scrapper and some sandpaper and this is what you have. I used some mineral spirits to wipe the dust from sanding off. That's why the wood looks so much darker in the last pic. Although I probably didn't need to, I went back over the ends of the dowels with CA. Since I'll be screwing into end grain I figured soaking them with CA might toughen them up a little. Or, maybe it did nothing ... who knows!

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#219
Bridge is installed. I got nervous about using the #5x1" screws that came with the bridge again, so I drilled the mounting holes in the bridge a little bigger and used #8x1".

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Then I worked on the head piece. I took my time getting the position right and used transfer punches to mark the hole locations. I think it turned out pretty good.

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Then I just couldn't help stringing it up to see how everything lined up. Again, I think it turned out pretty good.

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Yes, that odd looking nut which looks a lot two Popsicle sticks taped together is temporary. :)

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The next tasks to tackle are leveling the fingerboard and finishing the pickup covers.
 

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