Nope. Interesting that 'Warrior' hasn't posted again in eight years. Buh-bye.
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Floppy B Strings
- Thread starter Claude
- Start date
It's almost entirely a function of the string construction. Scale length plays a role but, after that, all other aspects of the bass itself are irrelevant. If you don't like a floppy B, buy stiffer strings. Period.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
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Nah...the bass is really the whole thing. Sure, a higher gauge will sometimes help, but not always.
My Pedulla Thunderbass 5 has a meh B string.
My buddy's cheap Peavey 6 string has an absolutely killer B string.
We use the same strings. Difference?
The difference is you're both not using a Bongo HH so you both have bad B strings!!!
But in all seriousness the Bongo does have a great B. I played a Cirrus with a pretty good B as well, never played a Pedulla though.
IMO/IME the hierarchy for factors in perceived B string floppiness goes something like this:
Strings -> Quality of Construction -> Scale Length -> Amplification*
Things that make no difference:
Color of the bass, the direction you are facing when playing, Length of the strings
beyong the nut and bridge
*That's right, people. I included amplification on this list. If you play your 35" scale US Lakland through a 15W 8" combo you will start to think your B string if floppy because it just doesn't sound right.
Strings -> Quality of Construction -> Scale Length -> Amplification*
Things that make no difference:
Color of the bass, the direction you are facing when playing, Length of the strings
beyong the nut and bridge
*That's right, people. I included amplification on this list. If you play your 35" scale US Lakland through a 15W 8" combo you will start to think your B string if floppy because it just doesn't sound right.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
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- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
Sometimes changing the bridge can improve low B string performance a lot. I have a certain bridge design that I liked to use on a few basses. Every single one of those basses had an improvement in the low B when the bridge was changed. Also sometimes you get a bum string in a set of strings. And sometimes changing pickups can help low B performance.
One thing to check is does the low B sound good when the bass is not plugged in?
One thing to check is does the low B sound good when the bass is not plugged in?
No, it's generally incorrect technique. Pluck further down towards the bridge with a lighter touch and the "flop" goes away.
I've yet to play a bass that had a "floppy" B that couldn't give a clear tone. I can replicate that kind of feel by playing up near the neck and hammering it for all its worth, which is probably the technique guys are using who're having this particular problem.
LS
In my experience complaints of floppy B strings seems to be associated a lot of the time with players who are used to being quite aggressive with an E or A strings. Then when they get a low B string they're amazed or surprised that the B strings is 'floppy' when they hammer on it aggressively.
Generally IMO the lower the string the more gentle you need to be on it, and as mentioned directly above, move your plucking finger closer to the bridge to brighten the low string up a bit.
Work 'with' the technology and physics rather than expecting physics to bend to your will.
Generally IMO the lower the string the more gentle you need to be on it, and as mentioned directly above, move your plucking finger closer to the bridge to brighten the low string up a bit.
Work 'with' the technology and physics rather than expecting physics to bend to your will.
On my basses, there's no technique adjustment necessary. I prize them for their B string in regards to the consistency to the E string. I've played many basses where I could hit the E with a sledge hammer but had to use an almost surgical touch on the B to avoid too much flop.
I have a MIA jazz V and the whole bass feels "floppier" to me (not just the "B"). I also have a MIA p/j 4 and it is stiff as nails. both regardless of what kind of strings I have on there. I've tried so many on the V and they are all relatively the same in that respect.
I usually use 45's, but on a whim I just got EB 50's . . . i'll try them out to see if it helps.
fwiw the feel is kind of nice but I notice that on a long gig, especially when I'm playing hard, it becomes a big hinderance. furthermore, one band I play w/ is in Eb which just makes it even worse ...
I usually use 45's, but on a whim I just got EB 50's . . . i'll try them out to see if it helps.
fwiw the feel is kind of nice but I notice that on a long gig, especially when I'm playing hard, it becomes a big hinderance. furthermore, one band I play w/ is in Eb which just makes it even worse ...
Hmm.. no, I've never played a bass that exhibited anything like this either. Boutique all the way down to my old $500 Washburn 6 that I finally gave away last year, the B was always pretty much the same as the rest in terms of tension, playability and sound.
Maybe a technique adjustment _is_ called for in your case
.LS
- Jun 28, 2005
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- Builder,mcdcustomguitars
When a sting's gauge increases, it's mass (weight) also increases therefore it's tendnecy to be "floppy" increases. E strings are floppier than G strings and B stings are floppier than E strings. Technique is the only cure for the difference in these strings. If your going to bang wildly on the B string, do your banging near the bridge.
You may want to try a different gauge string set. I have owned Brubaker Brute MJX-5, Cort Curbows (Korean made) and Stu Spector 5's and never experience floppy 5's. A matter of fact I tune my 5th string down.
Boombass76
Commercial User
I am a dedicated 5-string player, and for years, I have only considered 35" basses as they provide more firm B-strings. However, that conclusion was reached many years ago after having tried a standard MIA Fender 34" 5-string with a very floppy b-string that also sounded very differently from the rest of the strings...
Then, I recently got an Atelier Z 5-string, which is also 34", but this bass provides a very nice B-string and a very even sound across the entire fretboard.
At the end of the day, I still prefer my Celinder J-Update 5 w/ 35" scale lenght. It may be because I have gotten used to that scale and that particular model during the last 11 years, but to me that's the ultimate 5-string around (have also messed around with MTD's, Atelier Z's, Stingrays, and many other 5 string basses - still I haven't tried 5-string Foderas or AC's...!).
Then, I recently got an Atelier Z 5-string, which is also 34", but this bass provides a very nice B-string and a very even sound across the entire fretboard.
At the end of the day, I still prefer my Celinder J-Update 5 w/ 35" scale lenght. It may be because I have gotten used to that scale and that particular model during the last 11 years, but to me that's the ultimate 5-string around (have also messed around with MTD's, Atelier Z's, Stingrays, and many other 5 string basses - still I haven't tried 5-string Foderas or AC's...!).
True, but I'll bet the larger reason is lack of tension. For example, using the chart on D'Addario's website, a .130 B string on a 34" bass has 34.5 lbs. tension at pitch, compared to a .105 E string with 40.3 lbs.
6 lbs. less tension on the B.
To an extent, if there were only one bass out there and one set of strings, we'd need to adjust our technique. When you combine the right construction, better strings, and a good setup, it's quite possible to be able to use a consistent attack on all of the strings and get consistent results.
Multi scale basses address this problem very effectivley. Dingwall is most noted for this and here is my LeCompte~
