• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fodera Club Part IX

Status
Not open for further replies.
#602
Steveman said:
I forgot to share this with you guys when I posted it, but I went to NYC a while ago and wrote a post about my adventure (of getting lost) in NYC while trying to get to Janek's show / bachelor party, lol. I tweeted to Janek the weekend before saying I was coming all the way from Chicago for his show / bachelor party. Although he didn't retweet me back, when I introduced myself to him, he was like "Oh, you're the guy from Chicago!" which totally made my trip :)

Btw, his new Fodera is WAY MORE STUNNING to see in person.

Link Removed
Click to expand...

Great blog post :) NY is a great city
 
#604
The flat headstock allows us to use one piece of Maple for the neck billet without any glue-up. This method of construction saves a significant amount of time and labor. With the string tree properly in place there is plenty of string tension and the bass plays beautifully.

In terms of space between the neck PUP and the end of the FB...that is a highly personal thing. Generally, most people feel that we have enough space there to allow for an excellent slap feel. That said, there are a few who prefer instruments with 22 or even 21 frets to allow for more space...

Cheers,

J

freshesd said:
Considering this Empire Standard. Can anyone shed some light on:

1. angled headstock v. straight headstock? does it really affect tension/playability at all? or is it primarily just to provide access to truss rod? On the NYC bass (straight headstock), I did occasionally feel like I noticed the truss cavity under the strings, say, when popping the D string... does this bother anybody else?

2. spacing between pup and neck, for slapping? it looks pretty tight to get in there, I like to have a decent amount of space so my knuckles don't knock the pickups too much... any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
#607
Thanks Jason, I had heard rumors that a flat headstock w/ string-tree reduces sustain ever so slightly, but I don't doubt that the E5S does play beautifully!

The Viceroy certainly is a creative solution to having more frets and eating them too, er, I mean, having room to slap too. I've always thought the J/P combo seems like an ergonomic beauty... if you look at the "knuckle wear" on Victor's old Monarch, it fits right around the shape of the P pup.

Still, these E5S's are tempting. Would love to see/hear a video of them. Wonder if the maple top brightens up the sound at all?
 
#609
nostatic said:
It is all about the execution rather than the design itself.
Click to expand...

+1. Most theories of instrument construction can be contradicted depending on how well they are done and how other elements play in.

I always swore I'd never play a neck through again, and I'm loving this Emperor II elite!

I also am having a new double bass built, and my maker has has success in some design areas (flatback) that many people swore were inferior. He claims there's more important factors in pulling things off.

Judge the bass on its actually results and not the theories behind it.
 
#617
Just Thumpin' said:
The flat headstock allows us to use one piece of Maple for the neck billet without any glue-up. This method of construction saves a significant amount of time and labor. With the string tree properly in place there is plenty of string tension and the bass plays beautifully.

In terms of space between the neck PUP and the end of the FB...that is a highly personal thing. Generally, most people feel that we have enough space there to allow for an excellent slap feel. That said, there are a few who prefer instruments with 22 or even 21 frets to allow for more space...

Cheers,

J
Click to expand...


i went with 22 frets on my emporer to allow for standard neck pup spacing versus my first monarch
 

Attachments

  • foderabeechwood1.JPG
    foderabeechwood1.JPG
    155.5 KB · Views: 82
  • Foderawalnut4.JPG
    Foderawalnut4.JPG
    136.3 KB · Views: 80
#618
Just Thumpin' said:
In terms of space between the neck PUP and the end of the FB...that is a highly personal thing. Generally, most people feel that we have enough space there to allow for an excellent slap feel. That said, there are a few who prefer instruments with 22 or even 21 frets to allow for more space...

Cheers,

J
Click to expand...

Everything in design is a compromise. If you go with a shorter neck to leave room for slapping, then you've lost those notes for chords/comping/soloing. If you keep the 24 frets but move the pups back you've altered the tone. So you've got a couple of variable to work with (number of frets, cutaway design, pickup shape and location), and need to optimize based on your wants/needs. What I've found is that a great instrument will make you forget some of what you thought you wanted and inspire you to play no matter what the configuration is.

That said, I wanted 24 frets for the extra notes, and find that a P pup in the neck position does help give enough room for slapping. But that is really dependent on the individual player's style.
 
#619
nostatic said:
Everything in design is a compromise. If you go with a shorter neck to leave room for slapping, then you've lost those notes for chords/comping/soloing. If you keep the 24 frets but move the pups back you've altered the tone. So you've got a couple of variable to work with (number of frets, cutaway design, pickup shape and location), and need to optimize based on your wants/needs. What I've found is that a great instrument will make you forget some of what you thought you wanted and inspire you to play no matter what the configuration is.

That said, I wanted 24 frets for the extra notes, and find that a P pup in the neck position does help give enough room for slapping. But that is really dependent on the individual player's style.
Click to expand...

Which is why I keep wondering if the removable fingerboard option is available on anything besides the Mike Pope. It makes so much sense, as I rarely need those things on the same tune and could have the best of both worlds- regular spaced Pups, 24 frets (which I use) and 20 frets for slapping (which I prefer!)

That's such an awesome solution and may be one of the things that would tip me into a new Fodera if they could be offered on any bass an upgrade option . . . . what's the word on that Jason?
 
#620
It absolutely is available as an option, but it is the mose expensive part of the Viceroy build and so it would be very expensive as a stand alone option. I do not have my pricing notes at home here with me, but if anyone is interested, please email me at the shop and I will dig them up. We are talking 4 figures for the option, however, as it takes roughly 2 full person days to do...

J

Robin Ruscio said:
Which is why I keep wondering if the removable fingerboard option is available on anything besides the Mike Pope. It makes so much sense, as I rarely need those things on the same tune and could have the best of both worlds- regular spaced Pups, 24 frets (which I use) and 20 frets for slapping (which I prefer!)

That's such an awesome solution and may be one of the things that would tip me into a new Fodera if they could be offered on any bass an upgrade option . . . . what's the word on that Jason?
Click to expand...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back