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Fodera Club Part XV

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#401
nickbass79 said:
Who has owned a YYS and the MGS both? Thoughts? Differences?

Nostatic, I think you can enlighten with your VAST experience on both.

I'm thinking about getting one or the other, but I just can't decide.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Not sure about the vastness, but here goes.

They are very different instruments. The YYS is basically a 4-string "stunt bass" that can also cover a traditional gig. I say stunt bass in that 24-frets and a fast neck make it so that you can do chords, tapping, slapping, popping, etc. No real limitations. And due to the PJ setup with active/passive and 3-band eq you can get a lot of different sounds out of it. So if you want a 4-string, it is a great choice. The only reason to spend more money for a custom would be if you want a different look or are seduced by dovetail or neck-through construction.

The MGS otoh is somewhat more focused. It is a "non-standard" spec - 33" scale, 17.5mm bridge spacing, strung E-C. I got it because I was interested in working on more chording. I've found that it actually has now become the bass I grab first for most gigs. I still will take a 4-string for my Steely Jam or live band karaoke gigs, as I've either worked out parts in the former or am sight-reading charts in the latter. But for everything else I find I want that C-string available.

There is some adjustment. If your brain is wired for 34" scale, you will hit some ugly notes on the 33" scale until you get used to where things are. Also the narrower string spacing gives some people fits. I used to play Zon 5s, so I was used to 17mm. I will admit that I sometimes am a bit thrown by the 17.5 as the last year or two I've been playing 19mm spaced 4-strings. But I've adapted quickly on both counts. I also find that I like the 33" scale a lot. I struggle with avoiding tendonitis on a day-to-day basis, and having a bit less reach helps. Plus it seems to make the G and C string sound a bit sweeter. The neck on the MGS is incredible. I have gotten rid of a lot of really nice 5-strings over the past couple years. In part because after playing 4s, most 5-strings feel like an aircraft carrier. And in fact an Emperor 5 I had was too wide for my taste. But the MGS, with the narrower string spacing and a perfect shape, just fits my hand. In fact a 4-string now feels a bit funny when I swap back.

From a tone perspective, I'm still a sucker for a PJ with an ebony board. I've come to appreciate the dual coils though. So it just depends on what you want - ultimate 4-string or a 5-string that might lead you in very different directions. The MGS led me to order another 2 just like it :D
 
#402
If I may join in on picking your brain, Nostatic..
I know you had a YYS, which led to the YY Deluxe. I know both have the ebony board, but on the Deluxe you chose chambered walnut. I'm sure they sound different, but do they both do the trick as far as covering rock/blues gigs? Robin Ruscio posted a link to a AJ 5 string that is walnut with a bolt-on maple/ebony neck. I LOVE the sound of this bass. I was shying away from walnut, but now I'm not sure. I've got a 33" scale bolt-on monarch in cue, which for the moment has a alder body. I know I'm gonna upgrade to a 5 string(17.5 B-G) and dual-coils, and was thinking mahogany for it's neutral sound. I think there's a question in there:rolleyes:
 
#403
Jason would be able to chime in with much more detail as I have a limited set of data. I do have a good comparison between YYS and two YYDs - both of those are dovetail, one is ebony f/b with chambered walnut body, the other is Braz rosewood fb with alder body. Both are PJ/Pope. They sound pretty different. Stuebig has heard both of them so he could offer his take, but in general I find the ebony/walnut to have much more ping up top and a deeper low. The brw/alder combo is much "warmer", still has some zing up top but not as much, and has more mid punch, not quite as much fundamental. The brw/alder can sound more like an old P-bass whereas ebony just keeps you somewhat away from that vibe though you can cop it somewhat. The one word description would be brw/alder is more vintage, ebony/walnut more modern. I'm not sure how much the chambering plays into things. My artist wife loves the sound of the YYD - she can *always* tell when I'm playing that one. It has a very deep and distinctive voice.
 
#404
Pretty spot on...the only thing that I would add is that to my ear both Alder and Walnut are on the warm end of the tonal spectrum but Walnut has more cut...more percussion to the way the notes sound and Alder has more bloom. Hopefully that helps...

J

nostatic said:
Jason would be able to chime in with much more detail as I have a limited set of data. I do have a good comparison between YYS and two YYDs - both of those are dovetail, one is ebony f/b with chambered walnut body, the other is Braz rosewood fb with alder body. Both are PJ/Pope. They sound pretty different. Stuebig has heard both of them so he could offer his take, but in general I find the ebony/walnut to have much more ping up top and a deeper low. The brw/alder combo is much "warmer", still has some zing up top but not as much, and has more mid punch, not quite as much fundamental. The brw/alder can sound more like an old P-bass whereas ebony just keeps you somewhat away from that vibe though you can cop it somewhat. The one word description would be brw/alder is more vintage, ebony/walnut more modern. I'm not sure how much the chambering plays into things. My artist wife loves the sound of the YYD - she can *always* tell when I'm playing that one. It has a very deep and distinctive voice.
Click to expand...
 
#405
nostatic said:
I do have a good comparison between YYS and two YYDs - both of those are dovetail, one is ebony f/b with chambered walnut body, the other is Braz rosewood fb with alder body. Both are PJ/Pope. They sound pretty different. Stuebig has heard both of them so he could offer his take, but in general I find the ebony/walnut to have much more ping up top and a deeper low. The brw/alder combo is much "warmer", still has some zing up top but not as much, and has more mid punch, not quite as much fundamental. The brw/alder can sound more like an old P-bass whereas ebony just keeps you somewhat away from that vibe though you can cop it somewhat. The one word description would be brw/alder is more vintage, ebony/walnut more modern. I'm not sure how much the chambering plays into things.
Click to expand...

nope. i couldn't tell any difference because, as we all know, *wood doesn't matter*.





actually, they are pretty remarkable in their differences. i did wonder how much of it might be due to the chambering—BUT, i would expect that to make something less bright in a way and that is the exact opposite.


i think todd's basic nutshell of the ebony board, etc., sounding more modern and the rosewood board, etc., sounding more old school would fit my experience of hearing them back to back in the same room. since i didn't do an exhaustive listening to it as he has, i don't know about the differences in fundamental.

they have very nice things they do.
 
#406
nostatic said:
Jason would be able to chime in with much more detail as I have a limited set of data. I do have a good comparison between YYS and two YYDs - both of those are dovetail, one is ebony f/b with chambered walnut body, the other is Braz rosewood fb with alder body. Both are PJ/Pope. They sound pretty different. Stuebig has heard both of them so he could offer his take, but in general I find the ebony/walnut to have much more ping up top and a deeper low. The brw/alder combo is much "warmer", still has some zing up top but not as much, and has more mid punch, not quite as much fundamental. The brw/alder can sound more like an old P-bass whereas ebony just keeps you somewhat away from that vibe though you can cop it somewhat. The one word description would be brw/alder is more vintage, ebony/walnut more modern. I'm not sure how much the chambering plays into things. My artist wife loves the sound of the YYD - she can *always* tell when I'm playing that one. It has a very deep and distinctive voice.
Click to expand...

This description has me even more excited about the Fodera I have in the works.
 
#408
phishaholik said:
Has anyone tried Bill Lawrence pickups in a Fodera?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]


I've been looking for the perfect PJ pickups to put in my Monarch and I've been thinking about going with these. I'm looking for a good passive tone that will react nicely with my Pope Flexcore when I kick the preamp in.

I was thinking about putting some Fralins in, but they have a prominent high midrange bump that I'm worried may be too harsh.


Any thoughts?


Michael
Click to expand...


Does anyone have any advice? I could really use the help. I don't have a lot of spare cash to throw at pickups right now and I'm really trying to find the right set for my Monarch.

I'd really appreciate it to hear some ideas.


Michael
 
#409
I asked Mike (pope) recently about what kind of pickups to get with the flexcore. He said "I always prefer Seymour Duncan"

Did find a video on youtube with a p bass that had A bill lawrence in it. Sounded loud, in your face. Didn't notice an extreme spike, but more top end than I like. But then I was listenimg through a phone speaker..... :)

 
#410
bassictraining said:
I asked Mike (pope) recently about what kind of pickups to get with the flexcore. He said "I always prefer Seymour Duncan"

Did find a video on youtube with a p bass that had A bill lawrence in it. Sounded loud, in your face. Didn't notice an extreme spike, but more top end than I like. But then I was listenimg through a phone speaker..... :)

Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply! I have a set of Duncan PJs in my ESP Vintage 4. While I love the bridge pickup, I find the precision pickup to be a little muddy and have a bit too much low end. I'm running my Fodera through an SVT Classic, which is a pretty dark amp to begin with.

I watched the youtube video where the P-46 was reviewed and it seemed to have a nice full range tone. I'm just not sure how it would react with the Pope pre and the Fodera in general.

I'm looking for a punchy, yet articulate pickup.


Thanks again,

Michael
 
#411
Cool man, best of luck on your journey. I would say that the flexcore should be as transparent as it gets so if you think you like the Bill Lawrence...go for it. I saw another vid where someone was playing in a mix. Sounded nice.

Maybe someone will know for sure. Would be nice if there were a way to test all the options without letting go of cash. Hehe.

All the bass,
Brent
 
#412
What's the influence the top wood has on the tone?
I think I can distinguish different fretboards and different body woods, but what influence has the top really (a part from visual aspects)?

BTW I think an alder Monarch 4 (of course with an ebony FB) with a purple heart top would look amazing, but would it sound good?
 
#413
phishaholik said:
Thanks for the reply! I have a set of Duncan PJs in my ESP Vintage 4. While I love the bridge pickup, I find the precision pickup to be a little muddy and have a bit too much low end. I'm running my Fodera through an SVT Classic, which is a pretty dark amp to begin with.

I watched the youtube video where the P-46 was reviewed and it seemed to have a nice full range tone. I'm just not sure how it would react with the Pope pre and the Fodera in general.

I'm looking for a punchy, yet articulate pickup.


Thanks again,

Michael
Click to expand...

seems to me that pickups are easy enough to flip. less costly and less "final" than purchasing a new instrument.
 
#414
steubig said:
seems to me that pickups are easy enough to flip. less costly and less "final" than purchasing a new instrument.
Click to expand...

I do agree that they are much less costly and final than buying a new instrument. I have no intention of selling my Monarch. I'm absolutely in love with it. It's more that the EMGs sound overly compressed when going through my SVT. The tone was fantastic through my Trace/NV215 setup, but I had to sell that amp off. So, I'm mostly looking for pickups that sound great passive, through a tube amp, and can react well to the Flexcore preamp.

Unfortunately, a lot of pickups are pretty expensive and some manufacturers have long wait times as well. The Fralins are $280, which is no drop in the bucket to me, and the Bill Lawrence pickups are a month or two wait. I'm probably going to have to let something bass related go to fund the new pickups, so I'm just trying to get some opinions before I buy.


THANKS!

Michael
 
#415
I listen to Wayne Krantz a lot at the moment and stumbled about this clip which I hadn't seen yet and since it is not entirely off topic, I thought I'd post it here...



I think it's fun!
 
#416
styro said:
What's the influence the top wood has on the tone?
I think I can distinguish different fretboards and different body woods, but what influence has the top really (a part from visual aspects)?

BTW I think an alder Monarch 4 (of course with an ebony FB) with a purple heart top would look amazing, but would it sound good?
Click to expand...

I had a few basses that had a hard top wood and a softer back wood like alder and mahogany. They sounded great to me.

The way Jason explained it to me the top wood has more influence when solid and when not, its influence is a percentage of total bass mass type of thing. I think I got that right...
 
#420
It is relatively minor as it makes up very little mass of the overall instrument. In generally, certainly much less than the selection of body wood, neck material, fingerboard or Tone Block. That said, certain very dense hard woods can brighten the overall tone...things like Purpleheart, Ebony, Bubinga, really hard, dense Maple, etc...

Cheers,

J

styro said:
What's the influence the top wood has on the tone?
I think I can distinguish different fretboards and different body woods, but what influence has the top really (a part from visual aspects)?

BTW I think an alder Monarch 4 (of course with an ebony FB) with a purple heart top would look amazing, but would it sound good?
Click to expand...
 
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