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G. Gould Club!

Hey @GeoffGould and club need some advice.

I just bought #1177 and the access to the Truss rod is super tight. So much so that I can’t really turn it or even figure out what size wrench to use.

can you guys provide some tips about how to get in there and effectively adjust the truss rod without tearing up the surrounding finish?

Thanks everyone!
I have no pictures in my database. Feel free to send me some "mugshots" like below. Dealing with truss rods isn't fun. There are a couple of ways, and you need to be careful. There's a funky cover plate over the access hole. If it's hard to get the wrench in, you can usually Dremel the slot a little wider, as long as it's underneath the cover (or make a new cover!) to gain access. Another way is to use a T-handle wrench that's long enough to extend beyond the peghead. I was particularly fond of the basses we made like yours. Is this the same one we did the Bobby Vega video with? The wood is western red cedar, which is real light, and has a nice sound. Unfortunately the wood dust is somewhat toxic, so woodworkers avoid it!
cherry.jpg
 
sorry to disappoint, my database is not that slick, nor does it include every bass. Steve, yours is older, and may not be in there. If so, maybe you could provide me with some mugshots, and I'll add it?

Thanks! Heading out of town tomorrow but will send a few pictures when I return. Will also check to see if a 4mm Allen key is the right size for the truss rod. I have one of the early GGi5s with a composite wood/graphite neck so the truss rod used may be different from newer ones with a graphite neck. This is the cocobolo bass you saw me playing at AT&T Park with CRYPTICAL at the first Jerry Garcia Tribute Day on 8/9/10. I seem to remember sending you a picture of me playing it for your stash fairly recently, the photo was credited to Craig Isaacs and you put it on your Facebook page.

The cocobolo on my bass has gotten really dark over the 19 years since it was built.

Saw that you posted the picture I sent recently while I was typing...
 
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Perhaps if you completely stripped and sanded down to the bare wood, then refinished with a UV-resistant finish, it would lighten up? Sounds like a complete hassle! This pic is in my database, not from the FB page.

As far as I can tell it is normal for cocobolo to darken with age, walnut goes the other way so not a concern just an observation. I did mean to ask you, though, if there is a way to buff out the places on the finish that have gotten very cloudy and dull looking? Most of this is around the controls, probably a reaction to oils from my fingers.
 
I have no pictures in my database. Feel free to send me some "mugshots" like below. Dealing with truss rods isn't fun. There are a couple of ways, and you need to be careful. There's a funky cover plate over the access hole. If it's hard to get the wrench in, you can usually Dremel the slot a little wider, as long as it's underneath the cover (or make a new cover!) to gain access. Another way is to use a T-handle wrench that's long enough to extend beyond the peghead. I was particularly fond of the basses we made like yours. Is this the same one we did the Bobby Vega video with? The wood is western red cedar, which is real light, and has a nice sound. Unfortunately the wood dust is somewhat toxic, so woodworkers avoid it!View attachment 4643231

Thanks Geoff. I can try and take some pictures for you.

Could you advise what size hex wrench I would need so I don’t have to buy multiple T-shaped wrenches?

Also, I don’t believe this is a Cedarwood as this one is pretty hefty. At least as your base is go ;-)
 
I spy an F2B, and is that an SWR above it?

That is my old bass rig in 2010, Avalon U5 D.I. to FOH, Eden 4x10 XLT driven by the pre-amp section (Groove Tubes pre) of an SWR 220 through one channel of a BGW 750 power amp, the effects send of the SWR pre is routed to the F2-B then the other channel of the BGW into a JBL Cabaret Series 15" cabinet.
 
should be 4mm hex key.
There's always the possibility of an error on my part. My records show an 8.2# bass, which is light in my book, especially for a 5-string. Is it purple/violet?
Geoff, I don’t own one of your basses, but they have been on my list for some time. I just want to say that I think it is very cool of you to be active here and always work to help your owners out! Major kudos to you dude!
 
I think it's a good question to ask Jerry (564 999 3309)
Are you referring to Jerry Dorsch? The number I have for Jerry/Graphite Guitar Systems is 360-273-7744. Good as of ~3 months ago. He replaced the fingerboard on my '91 Q6 TBX fretless (it was lined and problems with the inlays had developed, and I prefer unlined so decided to fully replace). Excellent work, very fair price. He may take a day or two to respond to voicemail, so have a little patience.
 
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Geoff, I don’t own one of your basses, but they have been on my list for some time. I just want to say that I think it is very cool of you to be active here and always work to help your owners out! Major kudos to you dude!

Geoff is one of the really great guys to deal with. I personally know of three bass builders who will go out of their way to support users of their products: Geoff Gould, Brady Muckleroy and Keith Roscoe.

My ggi6 is an incredible bass. Everything about it is fantastic.

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IMG-3052.jpg
 
Are you referring to Jerry Dorsch? The number I have for Jerry/Graphite Guitar Systems is 360-273-7744. Good as of ~3 months ago. He replaced the fingerboard on my '91 Q6 TBX fretless (it was lined and problems with the inlays had developed, and I prefer unlined so decided to fully replace). Excellent work, very fair price. He may take a day or two to respond to voicemail, so have a little patience.

That's his cell number. He's had issues with his landline phone not too long ago which might be fixed by now. So I would agree it is a good idea to try the landline first.
 
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