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G&L Club Part 4

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#623
ilikebass7 said:
Got my g&l tribute l2000 bass today. 315 during the crazy musiciansfriend coupon stacking.
Love it!!!
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Few questions.
Where was it made and
Is there a simple picture diagram of the inner single coil mod and what switch to buy or where?

Thanks! Happy to be thumping a g&l again
Click to expand...

Here's the wiring diagram document and you're looking for diagram #7. Invalid Link Removed.
 
#624
Sadly for sale :(
Ok here it is...my special order 2010 US L-2000 Butterscotch Blondie with that insane birds eye board...up for grabs ...amazing shape....only 6 months old...one owner since new....killer value for the price..
It is also on feebay for buy it now and craigslist, so could be gone at any time.
Do not sit on that fence long if ya have interest in this one! :)

Thought some of the Club might have interest :D

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f126/...tch-blonde-birdsyeye-board-w-case-wow-839247/

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More pics on the for sale thread.
 
#625
As I play my G&L ASAT Hollowbody right now I'm thinking a few things

This thing is funky...
Does anybody else feel this thing replaces their desire for a J bass? Honestly I've been listening to a ton of Rush & I feel this thing nails that tone... bridge pickup in series

Anybody still have a J with their G&L & what tones does the J get the ASAT cant? Between the Sterling HH & G&L ASAT I feel like I have pretty much any tone on the planet.
 
#626
I still play J's, yessir.
Why?
Because they're 5 strings, and because G&L are too woolly, and my J's are cleaner.
And they're 5 strings.
 
#627
Thanks chef, the G&L is pretty in your face... aka "wooly" ??

My Sterling HH is a little more tame, cleaner when need me. I'm going to borrow a beat up MIM J from a friend & do a little A\B.

I have to spend some more QT with this ASAT to be able to dial in the sound I'm looking for in my head really fast but eventually I've been getting there. This is a great bass
 
#629
Tunaman said:
Thanks chef, the G&L is pretty in your face... aka "wooly" ??

My Sterling HH is a little more tame, cleaner when need me. I'm going to borrow a beat up MIM J from a friend & do a little A\B.

I have to spend some more QT with this ASAT to be able to dial in the sound I'm looking for in my head really fast but eventually I've been getting there. This is a great bass
Click to expand...

I think a good A/B test is done in the mix.
 
#633
No problem... I gotta get a good J I guess... for that wooly tone that the G&L can't get on the J... does that have to be a passive J?

BTW... I was trying to service my input jack... make it tighter to hold the cord better. That bad boy will not come out as much as I twist. Put a good gash into her trying some I done with that. Any tips on tightening the jack up without removing it?
 
#634
Tunaman said:
Maybe I'm missing what wooly means... I'm taking it as more mid present, less lows, more bite?
Click to expand...

To me, "wooly" is quite the opposite. Think "fat, dirty, fluffy (hairy?)", etc. Like a really hot Pbass.

In my experience, the MFDs can be bright with the right strings, setup, and EQ, but they just can't get the clarity and crispness of a good J-style single coil pickup. Even in single-coil mode, the MFD's aren't gonna be a real crisp, clean sounding tone, unless you EQ like mad (cut lows, add highs, cut mids to taste). Even then, they aren't *there*.

I prefer a Jazz for it's crispness and clarity, but I still love my fretless L2500 and find plenty of use for it. It's got more girth, though, and I have to be a lot more careful about how I EQ it.
 
#635
Tunaman said:
BTW... I was trying to service my input jack... make it tighter to hold the cord better. That bad boy will not come out as much as I twist. Put a good gash into her trying some I done with that. Any tips on tightening the jack up without removing it?
Click to expand...

Is that a barrel jack? If so, you'll have to replace it if it's not holding the cord in tightly. They do go bad and there's no way to get into to bend the contact.

To remove it, you have to unscrew a washer on the inside of the cavity and unsolder the jack. I fixed the whole barrel jack issue on my fretted L2500 by installing a football jack plate and a good old Switchcraft panel-mount jack. Takes a bit of doing, but the results were worth it. I will do the same to my fretless L2500 when it's jack finally gives up on me.
 
#637
IIRC, there's a retaining nut inside the control cavity.

Good news:
G&L are back to a normal, football plated jack on the new M series.
 
#638
lowfreqgeek said:
To remove it, you have to unscrew a washer on the inside of the cavity and unsolder the jack. I fixed the whole barrel jack issue on my fretted L2500 by installing a football jack plate and a good old Switchcraft panel-mount jack. Takes a bit of doing, but the results were worth it. I will do the same to my fretless L2500 when it's jack finally gives up on me.
Click to expand...

Low. Can you post a link to what you bought to do the replacement and pictures of the inside of your control cavity?
 
#640
I'm not sure the L2000 incorporates that change; though it might.
I was speaking to the new M2000.

Of course, the old top loaders never had this issue.
 
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