I'm with you. I've played one and it did sound really good, but I'm not down with the basswood (dents easily) and I don't like either of the color options.
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I'm with you. I've played one and it did sound really good, but I'm not down with the basswood (dents easily) and I don't like either of the color options.
I was alluding to the pre being the big selling point/feature of the M2X00 series.
themarshall said:
Yeah, but you know someone is going to add a preamp bypass switch. Just wait.
Chef
In Memoriam
Chef
In Memoriam
RocketMusic will do coil taps, I've asked them.
I read where someone said that the factory might do them, if asked.
I read where someone said that the factory might do them, if asked.
Never joined.
Hello everyone.
Got to a gig.
Saw this chipboard cardboard case near my stuff.
Guitarist says open it.
I do.
I ask can I play it.
He says yes, it's now mine.
It's a beat to he** G&L 1000. It looks like a dog ate the wood away below the controls.
It's dull black, dinged, scratched and stinks, I mean smells!!!
The hardware is corroded.
The all maple neck has "Derek & the Dominos" wear on it front and back at the G, A & B.
Tuning pegs are tarnished.
Take it to Warden Custom Guitars.
He leaves the neck alone.
He rebuilds the missing wood so that through its new clear finish I can't see the repair.
Mahogany body!
I had some parts rechromed and brought them to John Warden. He added a new OEM bridge.
Knobs are Fender Tele/Pbass.
Plays like butter!
Sounds like Heaven!
I know Leo touched this bass.
Hello everyone.
Got to a gig.
Saw this chipboard cardboard case near my stuff.
Guitarist says open it.
I do.
I ask can I play it.
He says yes, it's now mine.
It's a beat to he** G&L 1000. It looks like a dog ate the wood away below the controls.
It's dull black, dinged, scratched and stinks, I mean smells!!!
The hardware is corroded.
The all maple neck has "Derek & the Dominos" wear on it front and back at the G, A & B.
Tuning pegs are tarnished.
Take it to Warden Custom Guitars.
He leaves the neck alone.
He rebuilds the missing wood so that through its new clear finish I can't see the repair.
Mahogany body!
I had some parts rechromed and brought them to John Warden. He added a new OEM bridge.
Knobs are Fender Tele/Pbass.
Plays like butter!
Sounds like Heaven!
I know Leo touched this bass.
Attachments
Chef
In Memoriam
Here's my early-90's SB-2. The original pickguard cracked so I replaced it with a 3 ply tortiseshell one. Also, I wired it with a stereo switch so I can send each pickup to it's own channel. That neck pickup is just a monster... P bass but more everything, and the bridge pickup sounds amazing... punchy and articulate... but when setting the amp I always had to choose to favor one over the other when it came to gain and eq. No longer. Now each pickup can get it's very own F2-B channel with volume, bass, mid, and treble.
Wonderfulness.
Up until last month it had a 15 year old set of Alembic NK2 strings on it, but my 4 year old discovered that the shiny bits turn and broke the A string. So now it has D'Addario flats. Sounds great and plays even better.
Ignore the funky reflections.
Wonderfulness.
Up until last month it had a 15 year old set of Alembic NK2 strings on it, but my 4 year old discovered that the shiny bits turn and broke the A string. So now it has D'Addario flats. Sounds great and plays even better.
Ignore the funky reflections.
This is a 1981 L2000KeFL that used to be active.
The preamp was removed,
and,
the coil tap and preamp switches both converted to L1000 specs:
dual parallel/single coil/single coil with bass boost
This is how the elusive, and never seen by anyone I know factory L2000 is rumored to have been laid out.
It kills me every time I play it!!!
looks stock, right?
Some audio samples would be GREAT !! There is not much about fretless G&L out there.
Chef
In Memoriam
So.... after reading this about the String Ray electronics:
from the John East website
"BASS & TREBLE CONTROLS
The design of the 2 band EQ in the early Stingray© basses is unusual in that it does not follow the types of topologies around which the majority of equalisers are designed. It would seem that Leo Fender designed it to create a particular sound rather than follow any conventions, such as symmetrical EQ curves. Consequently the figures shown may appear unusual to those familiar with such specifications. In fact it's not easy to portray what this EQ does with a few numbers, but in any case some figures, based around a flat response input signal, are quoted as reference points.
NOTE: Like the original, this circuit does not have a flat response when the controls are set midway. This unit is not designed as a clinical tool, where what goes in, comes out at some reference setting.
TREBLE (+20dB / -16dB @ 10 kHz)
There is more boost than cut, giving rise the characteristic 'sizzle' associated with the Stingray� style of EQ.
BASS (+14dB / -7dB @ 40Hz)
The bass control has a little more boost than the original. The boost curve continues to rise towards the lower frequencies, without flattening out at any frequency within the normal bass guitar range. Conversly the cut characteristic is shelving, having an essentially flat response from 30 - 100Hz, when fully cut.
VOLUME
Sets the level from the preamp, feeding the output jack directly, like the orignal. This means that the pickup feeds the preamp directly, allowing the best possible transfer of signal, and full interraction of the pickup with the preamp. "
I though I might try approaching my L-2500 the same way, as in all the way up not good (I've been noticing that the out put is just "too much" when I'm playing live, loss of right hand technique, no sensitivity to softly played notes, and all)
So I back the tone knobs off about 50% and EUREKA ! all of a sudden the Bass is clearer in all respects, better pitch recognition, more sensitive to both right and left hand technique and not over driving the pre on my amp.
I like..... so I get some Gibson speed knobs (the ones with the numbers) and, if full on is 10, I'm running both Bass and Treble at about 6.... Has anyone else done this? (I mean turning the B&T back or down... not G speed knobs....)
Just wondering.......
from the John East website
"BASS & TREBLE CONTROLS
The design of the 2 band EQ in the early Stingray© basses is unusual in that it does not follow the types of topologies around which the majority of equalisers are designed. It would seem that Leo Fender designed it to create a particular sound rather than follow any conventions, such as symmetrical EQ curves. Consequently the figures shown may appear unusual to those familiar with such specifications. In fact it's not easy to portray what this EQ does with a few numbers, but in any case some figures, based around a flat response input signal, are quoted as reference points.
NOTE: Like the original, this circuit does not have a flat response when the controls are set midway. This unit is not designed as a clinical tool, where what goes in, comes out at some reference setting.
TREBLE (+20dB / -16dB @ 10 kHz)
There is more boost than cut, giving rise the characteristic 'sizzle' associated with the Stingray� style of EQ.
BASS (+14dB / -7dB @ 40Hz)
The bass control has a little more boost than the original. The boost curve continues to rise towards the lower frequencies, without flattening out at any frequency within the normal bass guitar range. Conversly the cut characteristic is shelving, having an essentially flat response from 30 - 100Hz, when fully cut.
VOLUME
Sets the level from the preamp, feeding the output jack directly, like the orignal. This means that the pickup feeds the preamp directly, allowing the best possible transfer of signal, and full interraction of the pickup with the preamp. "
I though I might try approaching my L-2500 the same way, as in all the way up not good (I've been noticing that the out put is just "too much" when I'm playing live, loss of right hand technique, no sensitivity to softly played notes, and all)
So I back the tone knobs off about 50% and EUREKA ! all of a sudden the Bass is clearer in all respects, better pitch recognition, more sensitive to both right and left hand technique and not over driving the pre on my amp.
I like..... so I get some Gibson speed knobs (the ones with the numbers) and, if full on is 10, I'm running both Bass and Treble at about 6.... Has anyone else done this? (I mean turning the B&T back or down... not G speed knobs....)
Just wondering.......
Chef
In Memoriam
If you're having problems with "G&L/signal too hot," you can also try cracking the volume shut to 70-80%.
It's not that I'm "having problems" I just wasn't in love with the Bass live....or for recording too... also I'm kinda liking the tone better..... and since I roll the Vol at the end of some songs it's easier to roll the tone back and have the vol on full.... (for me)
Chef
In Memoriam
Hi everybody. I'm just checking with you all first. I modded my L-1505 quite a bit. And it turned really great for me. When I can, I'd like to share what I did along with some photos. It'd be just for the sake of info. These basses are beautiful anyway. So, are you okay with seeing some modifications ? Or I'll just keep quiet.
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