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Sorry - the "Will Power cap" is something I swiped from a Sheehan bass circuit in this thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/yamaha-attitude-wiring-diagram-picture-420062/
I've got a .01 microF (I think that's the right units) cap on a switch to ground for the Will Power pickup. I had a Yamaha BB714BS bass that I loved the sound of but couldn't get with the ergonomics that drove me to make my modified Trib SB2. For whatever reason I really like that cap switch and am considering rewiring the bass without a tone but with that switch in place.
I'm glad you found your circuit issue - I had nothing for you, with mine I just played with pickup and polepiece heights to get the relative balance I wanted.
Mine isn't an output issue - they're honestly pretty close output wise. These pickups were out of phase, so when together the Will Power pup lost all it's juice. I got it all worked out - I just needed to switch the hot and ground wires on the series/single/parallel switch. Now I can have almost full power on all the pickups together. It's not that much of a difference, to be honest. Just fuller sounding overall. The combinations shine when it's the WP and the MFD's when the MFD bass control is down a bit.
All in all, I really like the combination, which is good because I was really regretting routing out the pickup cavity I made. Originally, I had an EB-0 replacement pickup in there but it was defective (got a refund) and I didn't like the sound that much anyway. I'm super glad that the Will Power pup works like it does.
I dig it! How does it sound? Do you like what the Will Power gives you in addition to the MFDs? What's your favorite combo?
Based on my SB-3 I bet I'd like the Will Power with the neck MFD in parallel or single coil, passive, bass full up, some treble rolled off. My SB3 fave is Will Power full up, Will Power cap engaged, MFD P full up, J full off, tone full up (the cap engaged gives just the right tone roll off for me).
At some point I'm going to pick up another L2000 Tribute and get it routed for an additional MFD humbucker. I'll wire each pickup series/single/parallel and use a 5-way lever switch for pickup selection.
Fellow L2500 Tribute players: what strings do you use? I am experimenting with different strings. I usually use DR Hi Beams, which I like the best so far. I just tried the DR Dragon Skins and didn't really care for them. I don't know if it is because they are coated or not...but I want to try out the Elixirs as well. I know that strings will sound different on different basses/pickup combinations, so I figured I would ask you guys what you prefer.
I have tried a number of different strings on mine. Many sets I liked at first but not after they aged. This might be one of those basses that I only like with fresh strings, but currently I am running good ol' Ernie Ball Slinky, with a .135 B string. They are the best I have tried on it so far, the best B string for sure.
I did try Hi-Beams on a Stirling 5 and they were excellent on that. Never tried Elixers, the 5-string sets are pretty much "unobtainium" in Canada, not at a reasonable price at least.
I use DR High Beams exclusively on my US L2500, and have for most of the time for the past several years. Love em.
I have tried in the past:
* SIT (stock) strings - too slinky
* DR Low Riders - also a good string, but the high beams have more sizzle, longer, IMO
* Thomastik Infeld roundwounds - not as strong (physically) as the DR strings. A decent sound, but also not as long, so couldn't string through-body.
* Rotosound flatwounds - ok, but the problem was more with flatwounds than the strings themselves. I don't like flats too much.
* Labella Deep-talkin bass flatwounds. Again, an experiment - didn't like due to being flatwounds - just couldn't get any zing out of them (not surprising!). They sounded decent on my 1978 PBass - just not on the G&L l2500.
On my G&L JB - I've used High Beams (medium gauge) and also heavy gauge - the heavy gauge is also a great string.
I have GHS precision flats on my Tribbie. They sound awesome if you dig flats.
On my Lynx, GHS Nylon tapes. The Bull has Pressurewounds (My new favorite alternative to rounds). I'm pretty happy without rounds on them all, but to each his own.
I'm currently using Sadowsky Flats and have had really good success with TI flats as well.
If you like high beams, you might could give SS low riders a try. I believe I've got Ni d'addario's (generally my favorite rounds) on my L2500, but have some chromes I'm going to try next.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I was thinking of trying out some flats because I play in a reggae band and I thought that tone might be suitable. I have never used flats, so I'm glad I have some options to choose from now.
I use Pyramid gold flats on my Telecaster Bass. I suppose I'm right in the roots zone with those. With my SB-2 I have TI Jazz Flats. They sound great too, but then, the SB-2 circuit has no tone, it's only raw power. Finally, on my 1974 P I have a set of flats with no traceability to their origins - guess what, they sound great too! The TI Flats have a bit of a different surface touch feeling than the others, I can't describe it but it's like there is some sort of oleophobic coating on them, the feel very "dry".
Hey All
I just had the actives removed from my USA L2500 waiting on switches for both(frettless as well) to have switches for each PU.
The fretted one sounds so much better to my ears now I wonder if I had a bad board?
Could that affect the sound if I never used active?
just looking for your thoughts!
I'm keeping the parts incase I ever change my mind, although I don't think so!
Love & Peace!
I just had the actives removed from my USA L2500 waiting on switches for both(frettless as well) to have switches for each PU.
The fretted one sounds so much better to my ears now I wonder if I had a bad board?
Could that affect the sound if I never used active?
just looking for your thoughts!
I'm keeping the parts incase I ever change my mind, although I don't think so!
Love & Peace!
Hey, I wanted to make some aesthetic changes to my L-2000, Does anyone know where i can buy the saddle lock bridges in a different color? I've seen them before in a nice black with gold hardware and was wondering if that was able to purchase on its own. The G&L website only has the chrome ones :3.
-Alex
-Alex
Black crinkle bridge was a standard until somewhere in the early 90's iirc. as for the hardware,...
Used my SB-1 for most of an outdoor set today and it just rekindled my enthusiasm for that bass. Such great tone can be had out of these basses!
My Model-J-equipped JB-2 Tribby is louder and ballsier than my Peavey Millenium BXP AC4, which has a nice 18v active circuit. Guess which one gets used for full band gigs, and which one for "lite" gigs. Yep, the Trib does not do soft, all that well, and that does not work, in an acoustic trio. My collection of basses is like my golf bag; there are specific uses for every club/instrument.
Chef
In Memoriam
This is a 1981 L2000KeFL that used to be active.
The preamp was removed,
and,
the coil tap and preamp switches both converted to L1000 specs:
dual parallel/single coil/single coil with bass boost
This is how the elusive, and never seen by anyone I know factory L2000 is rumored to have been laid out.
It kills me every time I play it!!!
looks stock, right?
The preamp was removed,
and,
the coil tap and preamp switches both converted to L1000 specs:
dual parallel/single coil/single coil with bass boost
This is how the elusive, and never seen by anyone I know factory L2000 is rumored to have been laid out.
It kills me every time I play it!!!
looks stock, right?
- Status
