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G&L Club Part 5

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Thanks man! It is do far the finest instrument I have ever laid my hands on. I hate with a burning passion active basses.. But this even in passive mode just offers fantastic real world adjustability and the neck.. Best I've ever played (my other basses are fender custom shop).

I'm tossing up adding a slinky little cabronita pickguard.. I reckon it would really finish it off :)

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A black micro-bikini Tele guard? - pssshhhh! (hot!) I couldn't agree w/you more about the versatility of the L-2000 system. I use both passive and active modes equally as they both offer such lusciously useable tonality - rock on!
 
I'm not sure how the new eq would do with the older, much hotter pickups.
I'm also not sure any of the new preamp, or, pickups, are available to be purchased separately
 
I'm not sure how the new eq would do with the older, much hotter pickups.
I'm also not sure any of the new preamp, or, pickups, are available to be purchased separately

Sorry for being a little late to the party, but are the pickups in the M series actually different? I thought they were just the MFD's but with a decent preamp..

I mean, I love my L2K, but those MFD's really are wooly wooly wooly in series mode. If they've been calmed down in a new pickup that's intriguing...

LS
 
I want to share some mod ideas with all of you. These are not the be all - end all. G&L basses are already excellent and don't need mods. L-1505's are the absolute perfect platform for the below mods because they are so very well built. I've got some experience with some of these mods and then others were a gigantic leap of faith=risk. I've done the exact same mods to two L-1505's and scored a bullseye each time - perfect results. Let me tell you that I prepped for these mods with: a whole lot of reading, corresponding with G&L tech support, listening, A/Bing various G&L basses against each other and my 75' P-Bass and a considerable amount of money saving. These mods were done all at once when the basses were brand spanking new. Now, I did not do the mods myself - I'm not up to that. I payed a tech to do them.

The mods are:
1) "football" jack = much more stable and reliable
2) no washers on the 2 toggle switches = a cosmetic preference
3) smaller knobs from Carvin = a cosmetic and ergonomic preference - G&L places the switches very close to the big knobs
4) copper shielding = we're familiar with the benefits
5) "bridge mod" as it's called on basses by leo dot com = WOW!, a huge improvement in: overall sustain and B string tone
6) absolutely no original electronics which means no battery at all, ever
7) simplified pickup switching - Each pickup has its own 3 position toggle
switch wired for single coil (bridge coils) or series or parallel.
8) re-arranged knob assignments - master volume, pan and Stellartone Tone Styler
9) Stellartone Tone Styler tone knob - notched model = a huge improvement and it's simple
10) an MFD neck pickup - this gives me a far fuller tone. I almost always use both pickups at 50/50. I do like neck only though. I use the volume full on all of the time. Is it muddy sounding in that position? - the answer is "NO". How could an MFD pickup sound muddy ??? It's perfect sounding in that position which is 2.25" (outside dimension) forward of the bridge pickup. The tech's routing accuracy is flawless. I've A/Bed my modded L-1505 against a L-2500 and I'm more than pleased with this pickup placement. I've tried neck pickup add-ons on lesser quality basses and ended up with lesser results. I knew where the neck pickup had to be placed and WOW, what a great improvement.

In summary, I'll reiterate that these mods are not the be all - end all. They were quite expensive actually but well worth the money and the prep effort on my part. Now, I have no "re-sale concerns." These mods work so well that I had them done on 2 L-1505's by the same tech. I've been gigging theses two basses for 3 years now and I tell you all that each and every mod was a 'bullseye" for me. Only one of the basses is pictured. I have an original 75' P-Bass which has mojo but it can't hold a candle to this G&L - not even close. Also, I don't relate to those who are so very concerned about "all original bla, bla, bla, ..." I washed my hands of that endless game when I sold my all original 77' Jazz Bass which had a weak sound compared to my modded basses. If it's not broke, don't fix it - well yes but, I knew what I wanted. And that's a very warm and round tone - that's nothing new. Leo's work needs no improvement - yet he did quite a bit of experimentation with his designs. It's nice that G&L basses are not so super popular. People spend much more money on many other elaborately designed basses. Let them, G&L basses are better.
 
DrumsAndBass--

Did you do those mods to the honeyburst 1505 that I ended up with? I had an L-1505 with a second pickup added and it was outstanding. Although I think the neck pickup was a little bit closer to the bridge than in the picture above. Great addition and every once in a while I kick myself for letting it go...


Actually, re-reading your post you weren't the one that juiced up my old bass. The one I had didn't have the total control over pickups and coils that yours has...
 
I haven't added a pickup on any bass closer than than the 24th fret - or where it would be. I've learned that an add-on pickup right at the 24th fret works quite well. There's so much research available on pickup placement that it almost makes you dizzy after reading up on it. I've been through all of that plus I've chopped up cheap basses for experimentation. I really dig my placement. I've got plucking space between the neck and the pickup. I've enjoyed the increased variety of tones available on my 2 L-1505's by simply moving my plucking hand for and aft. The MFD's sound so very good, especially with a 50/50 blend that I've got a very wide range of tones available by plucking hand placement alone. Although I usually pluck right at the end of the neck.
And, like all too often we get GAS for other basses. I've been playing bass for a long time and have owned many off the shelf basses-which are fine. But I usually stick with one bass at a time - gigs, rehearsals home practice and home decoration. My other basses are stored in their cases. Right now I only have two modded L-1505's and the same P-Bass I mentioned above. I suppose the other two basses are my backups and yet they just sit there. My other L-1505 was my "prototype" for all the mods. It sounds pretty much exactly the same as the one pictured. And, near as I can tell, I won't GAS for any other basses except another L-1505 which I would have done up the same way but it would be with a "Black Ice" which is not available right now for a L-1505. I've A/Bed my L-1505's with other 5 string basses - regardless of manufacturer and regardless of price right in the store. Granted, there is always another store to visit or bass to try out. But I greatly prefer the tone of my basses. Pride is a factor too, granted. But all the credit goes to Leo Fender for his designs. For all of my efforts, I'll never sell these L-1505's. Yet, I promise all of you that these mods as I've described are excellent improvements to the L-1505 but that's me. Long live G&L.
 
I want to share some mod ideas with all of you. ...

The mods are:
...

5) "bridge mod" as it's called on basses by leo dot com = WOW!, a huge improvement in: overall sustain and B string tone

....

Thanks for your posts on the modifications that you had done to your basses!

Interesting that essentially bolting the bridge to the body and then stringing through the bridge would make that much difference considering that through-body stringing already creates such intimate contact between strings and body. I'm certainly not disputing your results and I find it really exciting as it's a modification that can be performed on other basses.

I enjoyed your take on the electronics too, I'm wanting to do something to my L-2500 Tributes and you've given me some great ideas!
 
I had never heard of the bridge mod. I don't feel the need to change anything, but it seems like a good idea, especially since I string through the bridge and not through the body.

At some point I need to shield the bass as well. There is some hum, but it's my main player and it's not especially noisy live.
 
I've never experienced it myself, but I've seen pictures of the strings pulling the bridge right off the body when they are all strung through the bridge.

There are 2 relatively small wood screws holding the bridge down on the 5-string models. The bridge bolt mod adds 5 more. Not a big deal tonally if you string through the body (IMO), but I think it will make a significant improvement over the 2 small wood screws if you string through the bridge only. If nothing else, at least you won't have to worry about the screws pulling out of the body.
 
Thanks for your posts on the modifications that you had done to your basses!

Interesting that essentially bolting the bridge to the body and then stringing through the bridge would make that much difference considering that through-body stringing already creates such intimate contact between strings and body. I'm certainly not disputing your results and I find it really exciting as it's a modification that can be performed on other basses.

I enjoyed your take on the electronics too, I'm wanting to do something to my L-2500 Tributes and you've given me some great ideas!

I had many "Aha" moments as I learned from the basses by leo dot com threads. That's where I mined for most of the ideas for my mods. Adding the second MFD was my idea for which I was all but discouraged to carry out. I knew about the L-1505 but bought a beautiful L-2500 and played it for a week. I wanted to give it a fair try. And it's a great bass out of the box no doubt at all. But I felt that I could mod up a G&L bass for my needs. I returned the L-2500 and ordered my first L-1505. There's a whole lot of available space between the single MFD and the end of the neck. For the bridge mod what really sunk in to me was the posts (on the above sight) explaining how the 5 string bridges lift upward at the rear ever so slightly. G&L only uses 2 screws to mount the bridge to the body on the 5er's. One post even had a high res. image of the open space under the back of the bridge - and this is with through body stringing. It was noted that not every 5er may have that bridge lifting up. I could not help but think that those basses were losing out on some sustain etc. Now, the bridge mod is not my idea. No, it's from a real G&L bass expert who is a great reference. All of the credit for this awesome mod go him. The bridge mod is properly explained here:
http://www.bassesbyleo.com/l2500_bridge_mod.html
 
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