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That's a wonderful collection, and nice Rumbles, too!
I just wanted to post a special thank you to Wayne, aka lbbc here on Talkbass. I picked up a white Tribute Fallout last week and he sold me his tort pick guard. I didn't like the stock black pick guard at all. This one was packed to survive the apocalypse and even had the original plastic coating on it. Bravo!
This bass must have been kicking around for at least a couple years here in the States (serial number indicates 2020). I got it at a discount because it was "blemished" but couldn't find a thing wrong with it other than that the action needed sorting, the pickup needed to be lowered A LOT (you know how those G&L pickups are) and intonation was way off.
My guess is the bass might have been sent, more than once, to customers who returned it due to the action and fret buzzing. Maybe they tried to sort it (hence the intonation), maybe not but raising the saddles and increasing the tension on the neck went a long way towards minimizing the issues. I'll do a complete set up early next week once my TI Jazz Rounds arrive. I have them on my L2K as well and just love the way they feel and sound.
I have a Sire U5 coming in at the end of the month and at that point, I will have the trifecta of cheap short scales with the Sterling Stingray rounding out the trio. If the Sire stays, I may put the new JR's on it and put a set of TI flats on the Fallout. I have a set of TI JF344's on the CLF L1K in my avatar.
This bass must have been kicking around for at least a couple years here in the States (serial number indicates 2020). I got it at a discount because it was "blemished" but couldn't find a thing wrong with it other than that the action needed sorting, the pickup needed to be lowered A LOT (you know how those G&L pickups are) and intonation was way off.
My guess is the bass might have been sent, more than once, to customers who returned it due to the action and fret buzzing. Maybe they tried to sort it (hence the intonation), maybe not but raising the saddles and increasing the tension on the neck went a long way towards minimizing the issues. I'll do a complete set up early next week once my TI Jazz Rounds arrive. I have them on my L2K as well and just love the way they feel and sound.
I have a Sire U5 coming in at the end of the month and at that point, I will have the trifecta of cheap short scales with the Sterling Stingray rounding out the trio. If the Sire stays, I may put the new JR's on it and put a set of TI flats on the Fallout. I have a set of TI JF344's on the CLF L1K in my avatar.
In 1981, Leo himself was on task, so...
My 1989 Leo Signature ASAT Bass fretless (while he was still alive), my 1997 L-2500, my 1999 SB-2 and my 2004 ASAT Bass semi-hollow, all feature the micro-tilt adjustment, if you're referring to it.
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If your L1000 is absolutely perfect, I recommend you don't fix what ain't broken. Perfection is pretty rare to achieve. None of my G&Ls are old enough to have the neck tilt adjustment, but I have used a shim in some of mine--same effect. IMO, there are 2 reasons for doing that: (1) the action on the strings high up the neck was uncomfortably high, even though the neck relief was set well. Or (2) I could not lower the action any further using either relief adjustment or bridge saddle adjustment. In other words, at least one of the saddles was against the deck. In this case as well, the relief was set fine. In either of those cases, you can tilt the neck back ever so slightly as a remedy. Remember though, a little adjustment goes a long way. It's like shooting a rocket to the moon. If the launch angle is off by 1/1000 of a degree, you'll miss the moon by many miles. So don't adjust the tilt so much that you'll "miss the moon."
Good advice. Shim's only adjust the angle by very small degrees.
NBD G&L Fullerton Deluxe Fallout Bass. I pulled it out of the box....looks great. But YIKES.....sharp frets!!!! I took it to rehearsal and played today. I really like it. But I'm going to have to get the frets dressed ASAP.
Not if you use a shim that covers the entire neck pocket. Others? Maybe or maybe not. JMHO
Are you able to do that yourself? It's not difficult if you have the right tools.
Yes and so can the neck tilt on the 3-bolt necks, I'm told, though I have no personal experience with those older G&Ls. You can shim safely, however. On the 6-bolt necks, do not over-tighten the bolts. They need only be snug. Especially the two center bolts. You can also get maple shims from Stew Mac that support the whole back of the neck, but even using them, just snug the bolts, don't torque them down. Snug will help prevent the ski jumping. Also, if you have a newer G&L, either USA or Tribute, the neck will have a dual action truss rod, which is more stable. Also, the newer USA necks have a graphite rod that runs down them, which adds a lot of stiffness and stability to them.
It does not. Issue is not the preamp it is the pickup location. The Kilo pickup is closer to the neck than the L2000 bridge pickup.
L2000 bridge pickup is not all that great of a sound on its own IMO (can adjust EQ on amp/pedalboard to make it sound ok). Kiloton pickup sounds good to me. I will note that the Kiloton makes more sense to me than the old L1500 (has L series preamp). There is no need for a bass cut knob on the Kiloton (effectively what the L1500 has).
I have posted this photo a few times in this thread so apologies for doing it again. Here is a good example of pickup location between my Kilo 5 and L2500.
Exactly right. And also, the ability in the Kiloton to switch that single pickup into parallel, series, or single coil makes a difference.
Thanks for the info, I love my kiloton but I wondered if the L2000 was a Kiloton with extra options.
Honestly, its because of the empress body. My LB100 is alder and its a beast. Empress is TOO light and IMHO is like balsa wood in terms of strength. IDK why they even bother with that wood option
