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G&L Club Part 7

LB-100 vs. SB-2?
Hey folks. I have an American ASAT that is my go-to bass for it's character and versitlity. I recently picked up a Tribute fretless Tiloton which has remarkable fit and finish for the price. Tonewise, I wish that the Kiloton pickup was a bit closer to the neck for a bit more P flavor which got me thinking about the LB-100 and SB-2.

Please chime in if you have experience with one, or ideally, both of these basses and let me know which one most captures the super fundamental, deep and resonant P-bass grunt.
Thanks!
I actually have an SB-2, an LB-100, and a (fretted) Kiloton. I'll start with a general remark: My Kiloton and SB-2 are Fullertons, but my LB-100 is a Tribute, and I find the Cort alnico pickups on Tribute basses to be a bit underwhelming. While the claim is they're wound to G&L specs overseas, does anyone actually check this?

On my Tribute LB-100, I swapped out the alnico split coil for an MFD split coil. This was an obvious improvement, but I found it worked best with an EMG BTC Control active 2-band EQ, no affiliation. (That is a tight fit, but the combination is unbelievable in both sound and versatility.)

On the SB-2, I don't care for the MFD split coil by itself. (Ref. above paragraph.) It is just too big and boomy for my taste and loses some of the MFD's midrange punch because of its location in the SB-2. It sounds indistinct to me. In my opinion, it needs to be paired with the single coil. (I realize this is a fairly unpopular opinion, but my mama always dressed me funny while I was growing up, so I've learned to live with unpopularity.) Also, If you are a player who relies on a tone control, the regular SB-2 ain't got one, so you'd need an SB-2T.

My Kiloton sounds wonderful. I plug it in, flip it into series, dial back the tone a very small amount, and I'm where I want to be. For a slightly lighter sound, I'll use single coil and dial the tone back just a slight amount more. I find parallel on the Kiloton to be bland, but I think it might sound good on the fretless version with some TI Jazz Flats.

These are my opinions only. And yes, I DO realize they are only important to me. However, I hope you find them helpful.
 
My Kiloton sounds wonderful. I plug it in, flip it into series, dial back the tone a very small amount, and I'm where I want to be. For a slightly lighter sound, I'll use single coil and dial the tone back just a slight amount more. I find parallel on the Kiloton to be bland, but I think it might sound good on the fretless version with some TI Jazz Flats.

I can confirm that the Kiloton fretless sounds excellent in parallel with TI Jazz Flats. Really brings out the fretless-ness for lack of a better word. Series is probably my least used setting on the fretless Kilo. Still sounds good, but the extra low end covers up some of what I want out of a fretless.
 
Hard to tell. As usual MGR's pics are crap. And also as usual, not a lotta details or decription posted.

I'd like it more if it is CAR, and if it has an ebony board. Again, can't tell from their crap pics and no info there. Price looks pretty good, might be worth a phone call for some info. Not sure I'd want the non-MFD pickup, though. Have to say that it looks nice whatever it is.
The alnico pickup would be an easy swap to put an MFD in its place. I've considered it with mine, but I really like the sound of the alnico, warmer and a bit woolier but with plenty of treble clarity.
 
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I actually have an SB-2, an LB-100, and a (fretted) Kiloton. I'll start with a general remark: My Kiloton and SB-2 are Fullertons, but my LB-100 is a Tribute, and I find the Cort alnico pickups on Tribute basses to be a bit underwhelming. While the claim is they're wound to G&L specs overseas, does anyone actually check this?

Never had a USA LB-100, so no clue on that. But FWIW, I put a meter on my Tribute LB-100 pickup when I gutted the innards. It measured 11K+. I wrote the exact figure down somewhere, but can't find it now.
 
Sorry, I don't know 11 from 10.85 from Three Blind Mice. I'm just a hack with a soldering iron and the ability to follow directions. If these numbers indicate that the Tribute alnicos are great, I never meant to imply they weren't. I just said that I found them rather underwhelming. By that, I meant dull-sounding to my ear. Again, just my opinion... I didn't mean to offend anybody's multimeter. :woot::)
 
Found a note on Preamp versions and timing from Paul Gagon on another forum (post is from 2016). Quoted below for reference.

"I did a post on a similar topic but maybe it's more appropriate here. It went something like this......

You know, I don't think I have ever explained the various versions of the G&L Bass preamp or why the changes were made. Seems like a good time to do that. The original preamp that G&L was using before BBE took over used an LM4250 chip and very large resistor values around the circuit. These resistors were of the carbon film type and were typically 5% or 10% tolerance. I was told that there were some complaints about the preamps being noisy (circuit noise, not 60Hz hum. Think hiss vs hum). This was primarily caused by the large resistance values coupled with the type of resistors used.

Rev 1.0 was the first preamp to address the noise issue. It was done in September of 1992 and used the LF441 chip and value scaled down the resistors. These resistors were made from metal film and had a tolerance of 1%. The frequency response was the same as the original but the circuit noise was quite a bit less. I took great care in evaluating the sound of this preamp against the original with a ton of bass players. No way was I going to mess with the sound of the bass. I just wanted to reduce the circuit hiss.

Rev 1.1 was done to go back to the LM4250 chip because it was being so difficult to get the LF441. Besides, with the proper value of the bias resistor that connects to pin 8 of the 4250 you can achieve the same noise spec as the 441. This version was done in October 1997.

Rev 1.2 was done in February 2011. This revision switched the position of R8 (1K) to the output side of R9 (100K) to reduce the voltage divider effect at the output (a very minimal change) and to bring the external 10K gain controlling resistor on to the PCB under the name of R11. Also, the on board high frequency boost resistor (R7) was changed from a 21.5K resistor to a 27.4K resistor to reduce the treble gain......a very small amount

Rev 1.3 was done in October 2011. This revision was to address complaints of picking up radio interference in the preamp. An RF input filter was added to the front end by using R12 (1K) and C7 (220p). This blocks any radio frequency signals from entering the input circuitry of the preamp.

There isn't any real difference in the sound of the various versions of the preamps. All these revisions were done to address a variety of noise, RF, or availability issues. From the excellent pictures Ken provided you can see that the PCBs were different colors. The dark green ones with the "G&L bass preamp" silk screen come from the Southern California Almatron company and are assembled in the G&L factory. The light brown/cream colored PCBs are from Cort and are used in the Tributes. The preamps from Cort have recently gone to using the TL061 chip and 5% carbon resistors so it's very easy to tell when you have a preamp from the Indonesian factory.

If I've left something out that you are curious about, let me know. By the way, all of this info is as of September 2014. I was laid off from G&L at that time so things may have changed since then."
Out of curiosity does the Tribute pre say "G&L Bass Preamp" and have a Rev number?
 
:bassist:

Has to be said, G&L managing to acquire an endorsee who has no use for G&L's USP does fit in with their usual two-left-feet approach to life.

Are you referring to me mate? If you are It's actually quite the contrary. G n L turned me on to the EMG DC's back in the day with the L5500. MFD's are great pups, love them, but I play G n L because of the vibe and feel of the instrument it's self. I love "mustangs" and I love P basses. They are my two go to basses. And not because of the electronics but more because of the design and feel. I have never played a good 5 string P style from another company that felt right to me like the L5500 or more so L2500 (which is basically a P on steroids as is the wunkay) and the Fallout out is a better mustang than any mustang I have played. And I am strictly talking about the design, feel, quality and playability of the instrument, that's why I play them and that's why I endorse them.
 
Out of curiosity does the Tribute pre say "G&L Bass Preamp" and have a Rev number?

Tribute L2500 circuit. Wiring is not nearly as clean as US. The board actually does look like the current 1.3 board listed on G&Ls website as being US. Digging around randomly on reverb, it looks like the Tributes now have the same board. Though the pots are definitely different between US and Tribute.

IMG_1606.jpeg



IMG_1607.jpeg
 
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Tribute L2500 circuit. Wiring is not nearly as clean as US. The board actually does look like the current 1.3 board listed on G&Ls website as being US. Noting that I picked this up from the G&L garage sale so no idea if it had any work done prior to being sold. My guess is that it might have since the preamp was wrapped in foam and I do not think I have ever seen that on a G&L or Tribute previously.

View attachment 5243152


View attachment 5243153
Yes, that looks completely different from mine.
 
I have a CLF Research L2500 750. I have a Tribute L2000. I'm thinking I might liquidate the Tribute and a nice Ibanez EHB1506MS to purchase a CLF Research L2000. Am I stupid? I'm not playing the Ibanez because I just can't do 6-strings, try as I might. I'm playing the L2000, but not a lot.

John
Not stupid at all. I've had three L2ks (still have two and an '81 L1k), and all three L2ks sounded a bit different. Point being you may well love the CFL more than the Tribute for several reasons. Sounds like a good plan to me. The better plan might be an early L1k!:D I absolutely love mine.
 
LB-100 vs. SB-2?
Hey folks. I have an American ASAT that is my go-to bass for it's character and versitlity. I recently picked up a Tribute fretless Tiloton which has remarkable fit and finish for the price. Tonewise, I wish that the Kiloton pickup was a bit closer to the neck for a bit more P flavor which got me thinking about the LB-100 and SB-2.

Please chime in if you have experience with one, or ideally, both of these basses and let me know which one most captures the super fundamental, deep and resonant P-bass grunt.
Thanks!

I have 2 ASAT Basses(2020 Nicklewound and 97 flatwound), A CS Matador with dual LB-100 pickups(flatwound) and a CS SB 2 with V/T, V/T stacked knobs(stock nicklewound strings).

Having my ears being used to the ASAT MFD pickups then owning the Matador with LB-100 pickups was quite underwhelming due to the lower output, different frequency range response to the strings. Using a bass pedal preamp(Mesa Subway Plus D.I) helped to solve the volume issues.

The SB-2 neck pickup sounds closer to the ASAT MFD (with treble cut)even with the stacked tone knob rolled down. The bridge pickup with the V/T stacked knobs neither sounded like the Matador bridge LB-100 pickup nor like the ASAT Bass bridge pickup.

Ironically the best P Bass sound was from my 97 ASAT Bass with Labella Flatwound strings.
 
Curious about something.
This bass doesn't seem that special to me.
Why is it listed at like twice what other JBs cost?
Did the build just specify every expensive upgrade?
The build sheet doesn't seem excessive.
G&L USA Custom Shop JB Blackburst 4-String Electric Bass w/ Black Tolex Case (2023) | Reverb

Custom shop (automatically adds like $1K to the price when new). Quartersawn neck, block inlays, flamed top, no pick guard all add to it. Though I assume they do not charge for no pick guard, not having one is only available via custom shop.

To your point, that bass is going to take a bit to sell. Definitely a hard pass from me when there are so many excellent Jazz bass choices for that much or less.
 
Custom shop (automatically adds like $1K to the price when new). Quartersawn neck, block inlays, flamed top, no pick guard all add to it. Though I assume they do not charge for no pick guard, not having one is only available via custom shop.

To your point, that bass is going to take a bit to sell. Definitely a hard pass from me when there are so many excellent Jazz bass choices for that much or less.
Okay, all that makes sense.
I mean it's a cool bass and all.
But wow, those options sure add up quick.
And yeah! A couple right here on TB for way way less.