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G&L Club Part 7

#2,924
Iridescentone said:
The Wunkay that "almost was".

Had been waiting for a nice early hog/ebony L-1000 for a reasonable price. This December '80 popped up on the bay, exactly what I'm looking for. Seller accepted my offer of $650 shipped. Unfortunately the neck had a really bad ski-jump. The 3-way toggle wasn't working either. If the neck was good I may have kept it, and just fixed the toggle issue. Sadly, I had to return it. Look how sweet....

s-l1600_zpsl8eqdlgk.jpg
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You know, a refret where they plane out the ski jump on that bass would be under $300. I had my maple 1k Hog refretted and it is just incredible now. It has boutique playability.
 
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#2,926
delta7fred said:
If the resistance is more than zero I remake the bridge connection because it is failing. I have no idea what value it can go up to before you start getting problems when you take your hands off the strings. I currently have an old P clone as a project bass and it would be very easy to add range of resistors to find out at what value the problems start.
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Ok, it's cold wet and miserable here so rather than go and do jobs outside I got out my old project bass and a bunch of resistors. Here are the results for different values of the bridge ground resistance, i.e. simulating the bridge ground wire connection going high resistance. All resistance values in ohms as I have forgotten how to get the ohms symbol.

Open circuit - buzzed like crazy with or without my hand on the strings*
1M - Same as open circuit (to my ears anyway)
100K - slightly better than 1M but not something I would gig with
10k - better than 100k but still not brilliant.
1k - Almost but not quite as good a zero ohms.
0 - Dead quiet.

* This is sat on a wheelie chair on a cork floor so I was pretty well insulated from the ground. Touching a grounded mains socket made any hum totally disappear when touching the strings (for any resistance value that had hum). Hardly a scientific test and on a different day with a different amp, bass, floor covering and shoes I am sure the results would be different.

TL;DR - If the resistance between the jack body and the bridge is not zero then the connection is failing and I would advise remaking it.
 
#2,927
TMARK said:
You know, a refret where they plane out the ski jump on that bass would be under $300. I had my maple 1k Hog refretted and it is just incredible now. It has boutique playability.
Click to expand...

Two reasons why that was not an option on this one;
The ebony boards on the early G&L's are a thin veneer, not a slab. If the ski-jump is too severe, there isn't enough wood there to plane. The jump was nasty this time.
I could maybe have the neck straightened out with the heat method....results would be dubious.
In the end, neither option would have made the $$ numbers work out for me. Would make more sense to spend 300-400 more in the first place for an excellent example.
 
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#2,928
Iridescentone said:
Two reasons why that was not an option on this one;
The ebony boards on the early G&L's are a thin veneer, not a slab. If the ski-jump is too severe, there isn't enough wood there to plane. The jump was nasty this time.
I could maybe have the neck straightened out with the heat method....results would be dubious.
In the end, neither option would have made the $$ numbers work out for me. Would make more sense to spend 300-400 more in the first place for an excellent example.
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That blows about the ebony board being too thin.

I don't think you will find these in good shape for $300 - $400 anymore. People are getting hip to these.
 
#2,929
TMARK said:
That blows about the ebony board being too thin.

I don't think you will find these in good shape for $300 - $400 anymore. People are getting hip to these.
Click to expand...

No, I meant $300-400 more than what I paid for the one we're talking about. Which would bring the cost up around the $900-1000 range, which is what it takes to score a prime example these days.
 
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#2,931
David Jayne said:
That is incorrect, sir.
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I was messing about today with my project bass and conclude that a lot depends upon the circumstances. I haven't been through all the permeations (and really can't be bothered) but I did notice one where with a properly grounded bridge there was a little background buzz (not the large buzz you get when the bridge ground is missing) when not touching the strings, touching them stopped it. so it would appear that we are both correct.

This is in my workshop where there is all sorts of electrical noise, switched mode PSUs, low energy light bulbs, old style fluorescent tubes, DC-DC up and down converters.
 
#2,932
Many folks think that touching the strings or other metal parts of the bass 'grounds' the bass via your body, and this is where it all goes off the rails. To prove it, fire up your buzzy bass and touch the strings to kill the buzz. Then leap into the air. The buzz will remain gone while you're airborne.
 
#2,934
David Jayne said:
Many folks think that touching the strings or other metal parts of the bass 'grounds' the bass via your body, and this is where it all goes off the rails. To prove it, fire up your buzzy bass and touch the strings to kill the buzz. Then leap into the air. The buzz will remain gone while you're airborne.
Click to expand...
I know the theory David so something else must be going on with my workshop rig because it buzzes until I touch something grounded. Maybe a dodgy amp ground or too much interference, IDK.
 
#2,935
Finally a picture of my baby love this bass I'm hoping Santa gets me a camera for Christmas.

20151202_113322[1].jpg



Specs

G&L USA L-2000 Bass
Emerald Blue Metallic
Alder Body
Maple Neck
G&L #7 Modern 'C' Neck Shape
Satin Clear Neck Finish
Rosewood Fretboard
12" Fretboard Radius
1 3/4" Nut Width
21 Medium Jumbo PLEK Dressed Frets
Dot Inlays
Scale Length 34"
G&L MFD Bridge and Middle Pickups
G&L Tri-Tone Electronic System
Pickup Selector Mini-Toggle
Series/Parallel Mini-Toggle
Active/Passive Mini-Toggle
Knobs: Volume, Treble, Bass
Saddle Lock Bridge
Custom G&L Ultra Lite Tuners
Chrome Hardware
G&L Deluxe Hard Shell Case
G&L Certificate of Authenticity and Specs Sheet
 
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