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There is a mod called the kmod
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/g-l-l-2000-k-mod.789811/
diagram in the thread
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/g-l-l-2000-k-mod.789811/
diagram in the thread
Bridge pickup installed, it's almost a whole 'hog now lol. New preamp this week!
Thinking about wiring the bridge to the jack in the meantime, but having a hard time figuring out the best way to do it. This one's an L-Series SCM with the additional blue wires and I can't find any wiring diagrams that include those in the schematics.
Thinking about wiring the bridge to the jack in the meantime, but having a hard time figuring out the best way to do it. This one's an L-Series SCM with the additional blue wires and I can't find any wiring diagrams that include those in the schematics.
They have one in blueburst with maple on sale still available.
So today, I took my first foray into buying off the G&L Clearance site.
See, one of my L2ks (a junky yellow one with a skinny neck that I love) has a body that's seen FAR better days, and is now cracked through in the vicinity of the control cavity. I've been haunting the G&L site for a replacement body, but all the USA L2ks on there for a good while have been the vintage style with the top-mounted controls.
Well? There's a Ruby one on there now, and I just nabbed it today. So, having built more than a few of my own guitars from scratch, plus rewiring a bunch of Fenders, it'll soon be time for me to take a soldering iron to a G&L.
Should be a blast!
See, one of my L2ks (a junky yellow one with a skinny neck that I love) has a body that's seen FAR better days, and is now cracked through in the vicinity of the control cavity. I've been haunting the G&L site for a replacement body, but all the USA L2ks on there for a good while have been the vintage style with the top-mounted controls.
Well? There's a Ruby one on there now, and I just nabbed it today. So, having built more than a few of my own guitars from scratch, plus rewiring a bunch of Fenders, it'll soon be time for me to take a soldering iron to a G&L.
Should be a blast!
Ooh, Ruby Red is beautiful!! I'd love to see pics when it's done.
I'll do a before and after, but it'll be awhile.
The body is undoubtedly still pictured on the G&L site.
I got one if the blue L-2500 bodies on a while back to go with a kiloton 5 neck I had. Waiting to the electronics for when I get a couple of other projects out of the way. Interested in progress pics as well.
Gotta love the G&L frankenbasses.
BTW anyone here has a lefty G&L neck looking to pass it along? I know they've offered a bunch of them a few years ago. I need to post this at the wanted section as well but figured I'd ask here as well.
BTW anyone here has a lefty G&L neck looking to pass it along? I know they've offered a bunch of them a few years ago. I need to post this at the wanted section as well but figured I'd ask here as well.
I'm suffering from analysis paralysis regarding a second hand 2010, Inonesian made Tribute L-2500. I'm a BEAD man now, and have never had, or played a 5 stringer, or any bass with some kind of active circuitry in it. I've read these L-2500 are a veritable 'swiss army knife' of a bass. Is this true? Any issues with this year/ place of manufacture L-2500? Weight? Apologies if there are answers in the club pages somewhere but it's a big club. I'd be buying without being able to eyeball or play the bass.
Cheers
Cheers
L2500s (even the Tributes) are great basses. Swiss Army knife is a good description. They cover a wide range of usable tones thanks to the MFD pickups and control setup. They do not work like most active basses in that the active switch is basically a buffer (no treble/bass boost controls like most active circuits). Weight is likely high on it. L2500s are rarely light and Tributes tend to be consistently heavy.
The L2500 is a fantastic bass and can be extremely versatile if you're willing to put in a little time to learn how it all works. It's maybe not as intuitive for some people as a regular active 2-3-band eq found in most instruments, but it can do a lot once you learn it. The quality of the Indonesian Tributes is generally very good, but they tend to be heavy compared to their US counterparts. I'll just say 11+lb isn't unheard of for a Tribute. They're generally very nice instruments for the money, and play and sound great! They use USA-made pickups, so you're getting exactly the same pickups as a US built G&L. The hardware is pretty much identical, and the preamp is the same design, but produced overseas.
I have an Indonesian Tribute Legacy (Strat) that is as much guitar as I'll ever need. It's been rock-solid for the 10+ years I've owned it.
My Tribute L2500 weighs in at exactly 9 lbs., so not overly heavy. It has a poplar body. For comparison, my USA Kiloton with an alder body weighs in at 9 lbs., 9 ozs. The Tributes are a crap-shoot when it comes to weight, and I don't know what tonewood G&L was using on them in 2010. (My Tribute L2500 is a 2021 model.) And when I think of my Kiloton, it seems like the USA basses are a crap-shoot when it comes to weight as well. To me, balance matters more than weight. My Tribute L2500 had just enough neck dive to be annoying, so I replaced the tuners with a set of the G&L ultra lights that are on the USA basses. (They are not a direct drop-in, but if you have a little knowledge and common sense, it's not that hard to make the conversion.) That removed the neck dive and made it much more comfortable all around.
Ok… I will be as honest as I can. G&Ls are awesome BUT they are their own thing. They can be made to sound similar to lots of things but not exactly the same as anything. The MDF pickups are SUPER powerful - definitely "Muscle Car" vibe. I love my L2K but there's a lot of stuff going on with the pickups selectors and wiring options and the active vs passive and pre-amp choices. I literally had to draw a schematic diagram out on paper to get my head around the concepts. There is a logic to it but I needed to invest some time and energy to figure it out. Low End Lobster did a YouTube video a few years back that was a very well down and comprehensive review of the Big Chonks. Check it out if you haven't yet.
The OTHER issue is transitioning to 5 string. That will take some getting used to. Again, not insurmountable but you have to work at it.
It sounds like the L-2500 is very different from what you played in the past so I guess there's 2 ways to look at… either it will put you out of your comfort zone and you'll get frustrated or it will put you out of your comfort zone and you'll get inspired.
Hope this helps
A question for yous frankenbass builders....
Where's a good place to source an unfinished P-type bass body to accept a G&L L-2000 Tribute neck? Hoping to find something that doesn't need pocket routing. TIA
Where's a good place to source an unfinished P-type bass body to accept a G&L L-2000 Tribute neck? Hoping to find something that doesn't need pocket routing. TIA
I once (25 years ago) had a Yamaha BB1600 body with an amazing fretless L2000 neck. That bass just killed, and it set me onto my current path as a fretless player. That BB1600 body worked pretty well with the L2000 neck. But if you want a Fender-style body, there aren't many options that are direct fit with the 21 fret G&L neck. No suppliers (that I'm aware of) that sell Fender-licensed bodies offer a true 21-fret pocket. They do a 20-fret pocket with a 21st fret overhang to be compatible with Fender neck specs.
You might get lucky and find something, but it'll need to be long enough, wide enough, and the right depth to make it work.
