If I see any lace I can let you know. Most likely it was a big eyed girl from Chantilly, TX near Fort Worth.
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So El toro experts. I'm looking at a hog body El toro. I'm wondering if the neck might been switched? It has a plain maple headstock and and rosewood fingerboard but says El toro on the headstock. I never seen a hog body without a matching headstock or ebony board
It's probably stock. I've had a good number over the years and all of mine had maple or rosewood boards. The headstock was often matching but not always, sometimes it was clear finish.
Here is the full body with head stock. The bass is actually a bit of a gamble. Everything works but said the neck has a curve from the strings. I'm assuming/hoping a truss rod adjustment will fix it. I paid $700 is that too much? I mean it probablly would be if the neck is shot but I rarely see Mahogany El Toros.
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If a "curve" is its only problem, it may need a truss rod adjustment, and it may need more than that. In any case, it's fixable by someone familiar with Fender-style necks. It's a very common problem with them and most experience repair persons have corrected lots of them. It would need a lot bigger problems to be "shot", like certain kinds of twist, for instance. Congrats!
That Belair Green with maple neck is such a cool look!in with this Belair green M2000.
I've got an 81-82 L2000E coming in a couple weeks. I cant freakin' wait! I was asking a while back about factory colors here because it does not have the original finish on it but it appears that it was originally natural so I am just going to take it back to that even though I am not fond of it. I will be tinting it a little bit though so it appears a little older as the neck has some really nice age to it.
in with this Belair green M2000.
Beauty, grats.
I love the GNT neck finish. Looks great, feels great. Not a cheap upgrade, but worth every penny IMO.
Hi Guys,
I'm posting here since the original discussion was in a sponsored thread which does not allow any new commenting.
I've been experimenting with pickup heights on my newish L2K. I play fingerstyle and am using D'Addario nickels atm. Do I really understand correctly that the factory recommended E-string pickup heights are 1/8" and 3/32" while the G's are 1/16"? That seems unusually close. I hear pickup saturation/distortion well before that (not distortion due to overloading the preamp). Is that an older recommendation or this the desired reference sound for the bass (I know plenty of players who prefer pickup saturation)? My bass was not set up at the factory with these measurements which is why I'm curious and wondering if I'm missing something.
I'm posting here since the original discussion was in a sponsored thread which does not allow any new commenting.
I've been experimenting with pickup heights on my newish L2K. I play fingerstyle and am using D'Addario nickels atm. Do I really understand correctly that the factory recommended E-string pickup heights are 1/8" and 3/32" while the G's are 1/16"? That seems unusually close. I hear pickup saturation/distortion well before that (not distortion due to overloading the preamp). Is that an older recommendation or this the desired reference sound for the bass (I know plenty of players who prefer pickup saturation)? My bass was not set up at the factory with these measurements which is why I'm curious and wondering if I'm missing something.
I would say...trust your ears over factory specs....you're the one playing the bass, not the factory.
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I agree, I adjust mine by ear and they tend to be pretty far from the strings.
I also adjust the polepieces to give even string volume.
I also adjust the polepieces to give even string volume.
Have to say that the L2000 does get that Wal growl:
Not me but has decided if I should get one.
Not me but has decided if I should get one.
So after getting more comfortable with my US MJ-4, I decided to pick up a tribute JB-2 from the classifieds here as a backup, since I've sold my other basses. I am extremely impressed by the build quality of the Tribute! After giving it a quick setup and slapping on some aluminum knobs (which I prefer to the heavy chrome domes), I plugged it in and it gets a great thumpy vintage tone, vs the active growl of my MJ-4. I will be putting some TIs on this shortly and using this as my "flats" bass. The burst is excellent and the grain on the body is great (I could not find a seam for the life of me) and fit and finish overall is excellent.
I was thinking about getting a Sire as my backup, but 1) I did not want to wait 2) I was not a fan of the hardware, and I love the G&L bridge 3) Although the Sire preamp is great and growly, I didn't really need it 4) The weight on the Sire V7s vary a lot and some have been extremely heavy. Also, the difference between this 1.5" nut width neck (same as the #8 on the US G&Ls?) and my #12 neck on the MJ was less drastic than I expected. The tribby neck seems chunkier and more substantial than standard fender jazz necks.
When comparing the body of the Tribute JB-2 to the MJ-4, there were 2 apparent differences. First, the body contours of the tribby seem to be cut a little less - this is apparent when looking at the bottom of the bass from the side, by the arm contour. I had thought the basses had the same body shape, but apparently not! Second, the output jack style is different on the trib (no jack plate).
I was thinking about getting a Sire as my backup, but 1) I did not want to wait 2) I was not a fan of the hardware, and I love the G&L bridge 3) Although the Sire preamp is great and growly, I didn't really need it 4) The weight on the Sire V7s vary a lot and some have been extremely heavy. Also, the difference between this 1.5" nut width neck (same as the #8 on the US G&Ls?) and my #12 neck on the MJ was less drastic than I expected. The tribby neck seems chunkier and more substantial than standard fender jazz necks.
When comparing the body of the Tribute JB-2 to the MJ-4, there were 2 apparent differences. First, the body contours of the tribby seem to be cut a little less - this is apparent when looking at the bottom of the bass from the side, by the arm contour. I had thought the basses had the same body shape, but apparently not! Second, the output jack style is different on the trib (no jack plate).
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Nice.
The jack plate is something recent for G&L, dunno if they're using them on other basses or just on the MJ's.
TI flats and a JB-2 are a great match. I use them on my current JB-2, and have always used them on previous JB-2's.
I wasn't totally impressed by my MJ-4 until I matched it up with a set of TI Jazz Rounds....now it sounds terrific.
My JB-2 has a frozen truss rod, but it's set up perfectly. The low tension TI flats will hopefully keep it that way.
The jack plate is something recent for G&L, dunno if they're using them on other basses or just on the MJ's.
TI flats and a JB-2 are a great match. I use them on my current JB-2, and have always used them on previous JB-2's.
I wasn't totally impressed by my MJ-4 until I matched it up with a set of TI Jazz Rounds....now it sounds terrific.
My JB-2 has a frozen truss rod, but it's set up perfectly. The low tension TI flats will hopefully keep it that way.
