• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

#6,241
jcburn said:
Oh man....if that '51 RI has a Tele headstock some poo might seep out....
Click to expand...

fullsizeoutput_439.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: audreycashin, Glazenn, Ti-Ron and 9 others
#6,248
tux tux tux.jpg
jmlee said:
Depends on how you do the k-mod. On my L2500, I've done the mod so that, in single coil mode, I get the two *inner* coils: that is, the bridge side of the neck pickup and the neck side of the bridge pickup. So I'm no use to you.

I love the sound of the bass with both single coils on and running passive. It's not the sound of a jazz bass at all, but a lovely character of its own. With the neck pickup on single coil only, it's the same sound as an L1000 in single coil mode: very clear and articulate, a bit P-bassy but not exactly that.

I just walked in and measured the pickup locations on my jazz bass and the *outer* coils on the L2500. Not the same positions at all. So, even if the pickups weren't MFDs, outside single coils are not in the right spots for jazz bass mimicry. It's chasing the wrong bus, I think.
Click to expand...
Can this k-mod be done to a mid-eighties L-2000?

I would like to be able to blend the pups on this thing too, even without a k-mod.. or maybe add a push pull and have 2 volumes, one for each pup..
any ideas appreciated, p
 
#6,249
PawleeP said:
View attachment 2834332
Can this k-mod be done to a mid-eighties L-2000?

I would like to be able to blend the pups on this thing too, even without a k-mod.. or maybe add a push pull and have 2 volumes, one for each pup..
any ideas appreciated, p
Click to expand...

Can it be done? Sure...

There are so many options of what you could do. Swap the volume pot for a stacked vol/vol and bypass the pickup selector switch, or cut a new control plate from pickguard material and have two separate volume knobs or vol + blend instead of the pickup selector. Personally, I'd limit myself to reversible mods, but it's your wood, do as you please.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PawleeP
#6,252
68Goldfish said:
I think the switch in the wiring diagram up above is the DP6 but it has jumper wires on the outside just like the picture.
Click to expand...

The switch appears to be the same as DP6 but unlike the diagram there are no jumpers at all. Just the wiring to terminals 3,2 and 1. Based on that diagram Green is 3, White is 2, and Red is 1. Also, this diagram suggests jumpers only along each side connecting each terminal to another. Your other diagram suggests jumpers wired across from 3-6, 2-5, and 1-4. Any idea which is correct and why does the switch work perfectly in bridge only and neck only sans any jumpers at all?

I haven't actually tackled it yet. There's to little room to work in the control cavity so I'll need to detach the switch anyway and I had a jam to co-hos this weekend and no time to get at it. Sure be nice to know which is correct. Maybe G&L or one of the posters on bassesbyleo will know based on the age of the bass. I don't know of anyone with same year bass offhand but I can check that too.

The good news is the bass performs admirably even without a "both" position. Got a ton of compliments on it this weekend.
 
#6,253
TomB said:
The edge grain does look like ash, the face doesn't. Is it translucent at all? Given how contrasting the chipped area looks, the top almost looks like a fake mahogany graining.
Click to expand...

I don't have it yet, but it looks translucent to me, with a tight grain and a variation in tone. Thats why I'm thinking poplar. I will post more pics once I get it. Maybe in its own thread.
 
#6,255
soulman969 said:
The switch appears to be the same as DP6 but unlike the diagram there are no jumpers at all. Just the wiring to terminals 3,2 and 1. Based on that diagram Green is 3, White is 2, and Red is 1. Also, this diagram suggests jumpers only along each side connecting each terminal to another. Your other diagram suggests jumpers wired across from 3-6, 2-5, and 1-4. Any idea which is correct and why does the switch work perfectly in bridge only and neck only sans any jumpers at all?

I haven't actually tackled it yet. There's to little room to work in the control cavity so I'll need to detach the switch anyway and I had a jam to co-hos this weekend and no time to get at it. Sure be nice to know which is correct. Maybe G&L or one of the posters on bassesbyleo will know based on the age of the bass. I don't know of anyone with same year bass offhand but I can check that too.

The good news is the bass performs admirably even without a "both" position. Got a ton of compliments on it this weekend.
Click to expand...
Those lines you see in the technical picture of the swith are just for measurement purposes of the physical distance between the center of the terminals.
Just study the terminal conn part of the DP6 swith diagram and you'll figure out how it works and why you need the jumpers.
Basically, if you have three wires connected to the switch where 1 comes from one pickup, 3 comes from the other and 2 goes out to the rest of the electronics. When the switch is pushed all the way to one side 2 is connected to 3 internally, so you could see how one pickup would work. when the switch is all the way to the other side 2 is connected to 1 internally so you can see how the other pickup would work. But when the switch is in the middle 2 is only connected to 3 and not 1 (internal) so you can see how only one pickup will work. But...5 is connected to 4, so if you had an external connection between 4 and 1 and then also 5 and 2 then 1 would get back to 2. So.......when the switch is in the middle position, 2 is connected to 3 internally and 1 is connected to 4 external, 4 is connected to 5 internally and then 5 is connected to 2 externally. that's how both pickups work in the middle position. The way I see it you only need two jumpers.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: soulman969
#6,256
KRW said:
I guess Club Wunkay was locked in 2009?

Anyway, I bought this on ebay yesterday - will be picking it up tomorrow or Thursday. I know this is an ebony board, but what about that body wood? These tobacco bursts are usually Mahogany aren't they? I'm thinking this one is this one poplar? Sure doesn't look like ash. Maybe maple?
View attachment 2834531
View attachment 2834532
Click to expand...

Looks like poplar to me too. Yes, Tobacco ones were usually hogwood.

Not sure I've ever seen a Tobacco bursted poplar one before. "Never say never with Fender", I guess eh?

Cool bass, grats.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KRW
#6,257
TDR1138 said:
Can it be done? Sure...

There are so many options of what you could do. Swap the volume pot for a stacked vol/vol and bypass the pickup selector switch, or cut a new control plate from pickguard material and have two separate volume knobs or vol + blend instead of the pickup selector. Personally, I'd limit myself to reversible mods, but it's your wood, do as you please.
Click to expand...

cutting a new control plate would be a possibility, vol vol
sounds ok too..
 
#6,258
PawleeP said:
cutting a new control plate would be a possibility, vol vol
sounds ok too..
Click to expand...

If you don't use the active modes, maybe cut a new plate and wire it vol/vol/treb/bass with two independent series/single/parallel switches (one for each pickup). Just pull the whole stock control assembly out and put it in a box for later and start from scratch. Just a thought.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back