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FWIW - I recently had a G&L come back to me because the guy was making exactly the same complaint, fret buzz no matter what he did. Of course, he loved the bass right up until he changed the strings for the first time. When it came back, I confirmed that he was correct - the action was a mile high, and every string buzzed like crazy. I took a chance and changed the strings myself, and the problem went away. So I concluded one of two things happened - he either got his hands on a bad set of strings, or he left a ton of twist in the strings as he tuned them up to pitch.
What I've learned (having recently restrung 2 G&L's in the past couple weeks) is that the Saddle Lock bridge is really good at grabbing the balls at the end of a string. If the bridge keeps the ball from spinning freely while you still have a lot of slack in the string, the string is going to end up very twisted by the time you get it up to tension. I find it helpful to push the ball out the back end of the bridge as I wind the string up to tension. Wind a little bit, push the ball out the back of the bridge. Repeat. Once it's to the point where I can't push the ball out, then I just take it up to proper tension. Each time I push the ball out the back of the bridge, it literally spins as the twist undoes itself.
So that would be my advice to you. Loosen the E string enough that you can push the ball back out of the bridge. Watch to see if it spins, I expect it will. Once you've let the twist out, tune it back up and see if your buzz situation has improved. There's a pretty good chance it will.
Good luck!
+1 ^^^I've been playing professionally since 70's.
I've used G&L's since they first came out and I'm sure I've had over 50 of them in that time.
To say that, as a brand, they all have ridiculous fret buzz everywhere is just completely not true; I've never owned a single one that had this issue.
Either your techs all suck, or you have a singularly bad bass, which if you bought new (and at the price your talking about either you bought it new or got ripped off) is covered by a 10 year warranty.
Welcome back!
It's been exceeding hard for me not to buy one of the new CLF L2000 reisssues.
But then I remember they're four string and I don't.
I'd they'd just make a 5 String like that I'd hit that.
I would want L1000 cool taps as well.
I really like the single cool tone.
Alan I totally agree.I have owned 10 over the years,and never had that problem with one of them. Don't know what this guy is talking about????I've been playing professionally since 70's.
I've used G&L's since they first came out and I'm sure I've had over 50 of them in that time.
To say that, as a brand, they all have ridiculous fret buzz everywhere is just completely not true; I've never owned a single one that had this issue.
Either your techs all suck, or you have a singularly bad bass, which if you bought new (and at the price your talking about either you bought it new or got ripped off) is covered by a 10 year warranty.
I'm really hoping they reissue the El Toro or Interceptor on a limited edition since they have opened up that door.
Alan I totally agree.I have owned 10 over the years,and never had that problem with one of them. Don't know what this guy is talking about????
I have come back into the fold in force with two new L2000's this week and a LB100 on order...
I worked on the production line. Nothing buzes when it leaves the factory floor.I've been playing professionally since 70's.
I've used G&L's since they first came out and I'm sure I've had over 50 of them in that time.
To say that, as a brand, they all have ridiculous fret buzz everywhere is just completely not true; I've never owned a single one that had this issue.
Either your techs all suck, or you have a singularly bad bass, which if you bought new (and at the price your talking about either you bought it new or got ripped off) is covered by a 10 year warranty.
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Oh yeah I just ordered this version of the LB100 and am dreaming of a Belair Green JB5 too. You sir have excellent taste.