• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

Thanks. Yes I have been using Blue Steels for about 18 years now and I do know what you are talking about as I too noticed the change in peghead wrap color and then none. It seems to me that the tone has changed a bit also as I am noticing more mid complexities which sound ridiculously nice through my amps. I am still liking them way more than the recent strings I have tried by Ernie Ball, D'Addario and SIT for my tone goals.

I've never tried the DR Pure Blues and have some rewards points with Musicians Friend at the moment. I'll order some more Blue Steels and try some Pure Blues as well. Thanks.
With the change in blue steels, I have been looking for a suitable replacement. The new versions just don't stand up tone wise to the original version. (Played them for over 20 years on passive basses). I have found a good match with the GHS Super Steels. Really bright stainless string with overtones but have the deep thud of OG blue steels. Just my 2 cents.
 
I settled on TI flats on the GTB and now on my US M-2500 with an alder body.

Well I couldn't resist trying some TI Flats tonight at rehearsal. Letting another person take the lead in running things to see how it goes and practice was kind of trying. As as result, I didn't get a chance to focus on me too much, but I did like what I heard. I could definitely leave those strings on the M2k. I think there might have been something about the Rounds that I liked better in the mix, but can't say what it was. May try the rounds again this weekend just to see. Either way, the TI Flats or Rounds are the best thus far by a fair amount.
 
Big DR fan here myself. Just an outside the box comment, but Lo Riders are killer on the old single coil P basses.

Great! One string I haven't tried on my '55!:jawdrop: And that's currently my problem bass. Just can't get what I'm looking for in it. Just put some Pyramid Gold Flats and waiting for them to settle before forming any conclusions. They bass has lows and clear highs on the D & G but is kind of hollow and bland sounding. TI Jazz Rounds seem to have worked the best on that bass given my current rigs.

Sorry for the excursion away from G&L.
 
Great! One string I haven't tried on my '55!:jawdrop: And that's currently my problem bass. Just can't get what I'm looking for in it. Just put some Pyramid Gold Flats and waiting for them to settle before forming any conclusions. They bass has lows and clear highs on the D & G but is kind of hollow and bland sounding. TI Jazz Rounds seem to have worked the best on that bass given my current rigs.

Sorry for the excursion away from G&L.

Depending on you tolerance for stiffness, have you tried and in my order of preference, LoRider nickel (firmer, crisp not super bright top, tons of low mid and low punch, last for freakin ever), NYXLs (floppier, tolerable if don't dig in too hard, they purrrrrrr lovely growl), Dunlop SuperBrites (which are not really after 15 minutes, and sound great, similar feel to NYXL) or GHS Pressurewounds (more flat feel, great mellow but there top, good low mids, can dig into them pretty good)?
 
Depending on you tolerance for stiffness, have you tried and in my order of preference, LoRider nickel (firmer, crisp not super bright top, tons of low mid and low punch, last for freakin ever), NYXLs (floppier, tolerable if don't dig in too hard, they purrrrrrr lovely growl), Dunlop SuperBrites (which are not really after 15 minutes, and sound great, similar feel to NYXL) or GHS Pressurewounds (more flat feel, great mellow but there top, good low mids, can dig into them pretty good)?

I have tried the LoRider Nickel, but I don't recall if on the '55. I have some so that could be an option. No on the NYXLs. No much on DA and thought they would be bright. Never tried the Super Brights because of the name! Bright this bass doesn't need. Yes on GHS PWs. Great string that I use on a couple other basses and thought it would be the answer (have them on a Regenerate Heritage Plus--modern take on a '55 and it sounds incredible), but it was more bland than expected on the '55. But I thin that day I didn't have Vol and Tone open all the way. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
3nO5f7J.jpg
IMG_1079.JPG
A 6 bolt neck is about 1/4" longer than a 3 bolt, so a little sanding would be needed for proper scale length if you're doing a 6 bolt neck on a 3 bolt body.

Edit to say that the 1/4" that I mention is a rough guestimation. It is longer, but I'd need to measure to be sure how much longer.
Actually I now have the SB2 neck off the L2000 body. Previous owner put the SB2 neck,on the 6 bolt body Cherry Burst body. Probably messed the hole pattern up now,on the SB2 neck?
 
Need some help in regards to neck specs,on G&L L2000. Found a G&L neck,that has no holes drilled in the heel,of the neck,and no holes drilled for the tuner screws,but has the holes drilled for the tuner pegs. Pictures were sent to me. Has rosewood fret board,and needs the nut. Was bought in a clearance sale,back in 2015,according to shipping label. Any help would be appreciated. Might try and drill the holes for the heel,of the neck,and holes for the tuner screws. It is a 22 fret neck,from looking at the pictures.
 
Need some help in regards to neck specs,on G&L L2000. Found a G&L neck,that has no holes drilled in the heel,of the neck,and no holes drilled for the tuner screws,but has the holes drilled for the tuner pegs. Pictures were sent to me. Has rosewood fret board,and needs the nut. Was bought in a clearance sale,back in 2015,according to shipping label. Any help would be appreciated. Might try and drill the holes for the heel,of the neck,and holes for the tuner screws. It is a 22 fret neck,from looking at the pictures.

Sounds like the B-stock Tribute necks they were selling around that time. Went for around $40 or so, if memory serves.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chrome Dome
Is there a way,of checking if the neck is for an L2000 body? Might try getting it and drill the holes,for the heel,and holes,for the tuners. Probably be able to find a nut for the neck.

In theory, all Tribute necks should fit the 6-bolt L bodies with minimal effort. They did sell both 1.5" and 1.75" nut widths at the time. But they were unlabeled, so it wouldn't matter if it was an L-2000 or SB-2/JB-2 neck.

I did buy one at the time but never had a use for it, so I sold it a couple of years later. The guy that bought it did test fit it on a US body and it did fit the pocket just fine. Note that they will need some serious fretwork.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chrome Dome
In theory, all Tribute necks should fit the 6-bolt L bodies with minimal effort. They did sell both 1.5" and 1.75" nut widths at the time. But they were unlabeled, so it wouldn't matter if it was an L-2000 or SB-2/JB-2 neck.

I did buy one at the time but never had a use for it, so I sold it a couple of years later. The guy that bought it did test fit it on a US body and it did fit the pocket just fine. Note that they will need some serious fretwork.
Ok,Thanks,for all the info. Person I was talking to about the neck,said it has 2.5" neck pocket,and 1.9/16" nut width? Is the SB-2 neck shorter than the L2000 neck?
 
AFAIK, the Tributes all share the same neck heel dimensions, which match the current L 6-bolt. Though the new JB may be an exception, but that wouldn't be a consideration in this case.
Ok,Thanks,I am sort of a novice at doing something like this. As I said once before,always apprehensive about last couple G&L basses I got have had neck issues! Not because of G&L,just previous owners that devalued them by doing crazy neck swaps,without thinking it through IMO.
 
Last edited: