• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

Hey guys, quick question here. I know it is probably buried somewhere here in these 12000+ post, but I'm a bit lazy and don't want to go looking for it. :bag:

What strings come on the G&L Tribute M2000 GTB and GTS? I've posted before that I have been using Dean Markley Cryogenic Blue Steels for about 20ish years now and it seems like nobody carries them anymore? I probably have about 6 packages left so I am going to have to start trying out some other strings again.

I'll probably be buying some GHS Super Steels and some DR SS Lo-Riders and would also like to buy whatever the M2000's have as they sound pretty damn good. Any info you guys could provide me would be appreciated. :help:

Thanks.
 
Hey guys, quick question here. I know it is probably buried somewhere here in these 12000+ post, but I'm a bit lazy and don't want to go looking for it. :bag:

What strings come on the G&L Tribute M2000 GTB and GTS? I've posted before that I have been using Dean Markley Cryogenic Blue Steels for about 20ish years now and it seems like nobody carries them anymore? I probably have about 6 packages left so I am going to have to start trying out some other strings again.

I'll probably be buying some GHS Super Steels and some DR SS Lo-Riders and would also like to buy whatever the M2000's have as they sound pretty damn good. Any info you guys could provide me would be appreciated. :help:

Thanks.

I believe that G&L basses ship with D'Addario EXL's. Blue Steels went massively downhill over the recent years. DR Pure Blues are my new go-to, replacing the Blue Steels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wicked G
What concerns me about that is how little the wrench actually contacts with the nut. I mean, even the graphic doesn't make it look like there's a ton of contact.
It actually contacts the whole way around (even though there's a bit of a gap in the picture). The tapered part after the ball is hex shaped as well and contacts the nut as well as contact from the ball portion. I've used them successfully on many items, bass and non-bass related, with success. Of course, your results may be different in this situation, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TDR1138 and Kriegs
It actually contacts the whole way around (even though there's a bit of a gap in the picture). The tapered part after the ball is hex shaped as well and contacts the nut as well as contact from the ball portion. I've used them successfully on many items, bass and non-bass related, with success. Of course, your results may be different in this situation, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
+1
Ball end hex keys have enabled me to avoid trips to a luthier or other kind of repair shops several times :thumbsup:
 
I am in! Got this at a local pawn shop.
NNuakUm.jpg

Full story here
 
Does anyone know of a bridge cover that would work with G&L bass bridges?

Alternatively, does anyone know of a custom fabricator that can make one?

I want to put a bridge cover on without permanently modifying my G&L basses w/ new holes:
A fitted cover that just slides on top of the bridge, held in place similar to how the saddle lock works. Set screws on the side(s) w/ urethane bumpers to prevent marring the sidewalls of the bridge.
 
Does anyone know of a bridge cover that would work with G&L bass bridges?

Alternatively, does anyone know of a custom fabricator that can make one?

I want to put a bridge cover on without permanently modifying my G&L basses w/ new holes:
A fitted cover that just slides on top of the bridge, held in place similar to how the saddle lock works. Set screws on the side(s) w/ urethane bumpers to prevent marring the sidewalls of the bridge.
That's a pretty rad idea, actually.
 
I want to put a bridge cover on without permanently modifying my G&L basses w/ new holes:
A fitted cover that just slides on top of the bridge, held in place similar to how the saddle lock works. Set screws on the side(s) w/ urethane bumpers to prevent marring the sidewalls of the bridge.

Why not use the saddle lock set screw to mount it? Bumpers on three sides of the cover (to prevent bridge marring). Remove stock saddle lock set screw. Replace with longer set screw that threads into both the cover and the saddle lock (to hold everything securely in place).
 
Why not use the saddle lock set screw to mount it? Bumpers on three sides of the cover (to prevent bridge marring). Remove stock saddle lock set screw. Replace with longer set screw that threads into both the cover and the saddle lock (to hold everything securely in place).

That's might be possible too - doing it that way would need a machine screw instead of a setscrew - maybe that area of the cover can be recessed so it isn't as noticeable?

It's tricky though - gotta have the perfect length screw since how hard the saddle lock is compressed is directly tied to how secure the cover is. Too short a screw and the cover is on tight while the saddles are still free. Too long a screw means it'll bottom out against the saddle while the cover still rattles around.

Also, has exact position of that setscrew always been the same over the years? Even Tribute vs USA models? If not, having the mounting independent of the saddle lock hole alignment might make it more universal between various G&Ls (and allow for more tolerance)

We need to find someone to make this! :laugh:
 
It's tricky though - gotta have the perfect length screw since how hard the saddle lock is compressed is directly tied to how secure the cover is. Too short a screw and the cover is on tight while the saddles are still free. Too long a screw means it'll bottom out against the saddle while the cover still rattles around.

If the dual sets of threads don't have enough room between them, they will bind up on one side or the other. It's the same effect as using a 2nd nut to lock the first nut on a bolt. Tightening down 2 different nuts with the turn of one single screw doesn't work very well most of the time.
 
If the dual sets of threads don't have enough room between them, they will bind up on one side or the other. It's the same effect as using a 2nd nut to lock the first nut on a bolt. Tightening down 2 different nuts with the turn of one single screw doesn't work very well most of the time.

In this particular proposal, the cover wouldn't be threaded -it'll just be a hole (possibly recessed) - would use a machine screw with a head instead of a headless setscrew to get around the binding issue.
 
Would not be that hard to try a few screws and find the right length. Also... my post was dumb. You would want an actual screw and no thread on cover to prevent binding (sick and sleep deprived today so please forgive the dumb portion of my post and run with the point of my post that you can use the set screw to your advantage).
 
Man, I was hoping to have a day to acclimate my new bass in my office, then a NBD post about the bass... but it's held up in shipping due to "extreme weather conditions" or some bs like that. I stopped by the UPS center to pick up just to see if I could, but it turns out that they had more volume then they expected, which means my delivery date of today is pushed until tomorrow.

Unless the snow forecasted for tomorrow hits, which means I might not be able to pick up until it settles down... sometime next week!!

Here's my hope: either they contact me RIGHT NOW and say I can come get it, or they contact me tonight and I will get it in the AM tomorrow. And then it snows 12" during the day, at which time I'm already at home (having left early to avoid the snow), and playing my BRAND NEW BASS. And then NBD post. And then the circle is complete.

I will keep you, my brothers and sisters, updated as possible.
 

Latest posts