G&L Club Part 7

[metron]

Hey @Kriegs did you ever get a response on the email you send G&L about the 5 string bridge thing?

I sent them an email and follow up about my new L2000 and they haven't responded. I asked for some new knobs because the chrome is coming off the ones that came on the bass. Not a big deal since it's not a very expensive thing to buy myself. Actually an upgrade would be nice since the knobs that they are using these days seem like junk anyway. Pretty poor customer service though.

I guess to be fair, I did also ask a few questions about my no-longer-under-warranty SB-2 with the buried truss rod nut. Perhaps they are avoiding me because of that. Or maybe just in general.

 

[Kriegs]

Hey @Kriegs did you ever get a response on the email you send G&L about the 5 string bridge thing?

I sent them an email and follow up about my new L2000 and they haven't responded. I asked for some new knobs because the chrome is coming off the ones that came on the bass. Not a big deal since it's not a very expensive thing to buy myself. Actually an upgrade would be nice since the knobs that they are using these days seem like junk anyway. Pretty poor customer service though.

I guess to be fair, I did also ask a few questions about my no-longer-under-warranty SB-2 with the buried truss rod nut. Perhaps they are avoiding me because of that. Or maybe just in general.

Nope, never did get that answer. I even asked it again last week

As far as the buried truss rod, there's no secret that fire can't uncover, especially from wood based items

Gandalf and Frodo using the fireplace was way underpowered, IMHO...

 

[TDR1138]

It might be fair to give them a little slack since NAMM was just last week. But yeah, they aren't known for the speediest response.

...my no-longer-under-warranty SB-2 with the buried truss rod nut.

Just a dumb thought, but I have a Fender Jazz 24V that has a truss rod nut that isn't straight with the hole and is somewhat buried. Common on them, from what I gather. The Allen key wouldn't go very far in because the edges of the hole were obstructing it. Maybe would get 20-30% of the way in. So the nut was starting to strip. I used a Dremel and cut an Allen key down so that the short side was really short and just gives me enough length to get about 1/4 of a turn at a time. But it makes the key fit all the way into the nut securely and without slipping. So what seemed like a buried and stripped nut now has zero issues adjusting. For the cost of an Allen key and 5 minutes of your time, might be worth a shot.

Here's a comparison of a normal key and the modified one:

Here's how the normal key fits (or doesn't fit, really):

And here's the modified key sitting all the way in the nut:

 

[metron]

Nope, never did get that answer. I even asked it again last week

As far as the buried truss rod, there's no secret that fire can't uncover, especially from wood based items
View attachment 3311626

Gandalf and Frodo using the fireplace was way underpowered, IMHO...

See now underpowered is a myth propagated by the phase cancellation of comb filters due to the diameter mismatch of the input impedance's output jack. Gnomesayin?

 

[metron]

It might be fair to give them a little slack since NAMM was just last week. But yeah, they aren't known for the speediest response.

That's fair. I first emailed in December and followed up in January. Took less time to build the bass anyway

Speaking of the knobs, they look like they are die cast rather than actually machined. I don't know for sure though. It's weird, they look lopsided as I turn them and each one is shaped a little different. Not quote round. My 2006 or '07 SB-2 knobs are much higher quality. Anyone else have these cheap looking knobs on the new US instruments?

Just a dumb thought, but I have a Fender Jazz 24V that has a truss rod nut that isn't straight with the hole and is somewhat buried. Common on them, from what I gather. The Allen key wouldn't go very far in because the edges of the hole were obstructing it. Maybe would get 20-30% of the way in. So the nut was starting to strip. I used a Dremel and cut an Allen key down so that the short side was really short and just gives me enough length to get about 1/4 of a turn at a time. But it makes the key fit all the way into the nut securely and without slipping. So what seemed like a buried and stripped nut now has zero issues adjusting. For the cost of an Allen key and 5 minutes of your time, might be worth a shot.

That's a good tip and much appreciated TDR! When I say buried, I mean I can't even get the tip of the key in. No puns this time. The key is probably at a 20+ degree angle on entry so your fix may not be sufficient. I was going to try a ball key but I've read folks on the BBL forum strongly recommend against them. Far as I can tell, that's the only option short of carving out the notch. Or fire. If I do strip the nut accidentally, it will require carving to get it out. I should post a pic.

My question to them was whether or not they came from the factory that way, which it looks like they did, and more importantly if they had any recommendations on what to do about it.

 

[TDR1138]

When I say buried, I mean I can't even get the tip of the key in. No puns this time.

The key is probably at a 20+ degree angle on entry so your fix may not be sufficient. I was going to try a ball key but I've read folks on the BBL forum strongly recommend against them. Far as I can tell, that's the only option short of carving out the notch. Or fire. If I do strip the nut accidentally, it will require carving to get it out. I should post a pic.

What I noticed is that the hole for the key and the nut were essentially making a dip - if you did a cross section, it would be a subtle V - and the key was not able to get into the nut because it's length wouldn't allow it to slide in due to the angle. So I'd start with the key (no damage to the bass) and get it fairly short. The shorter you make the key, however, the less range you will have to turn it because the sides of the hole start to interfere. You'd want to make sure there's enough room for it to turn at least 1/6 of a rotation, or more, so that each time you max out your range, you can still get it back in for the next turn.

Frankly, I'd start with cutting the key and then look to remove as little wood as possible if it still doesn't fit. Hopefully not a matched headstock.

 

[Kriegs]

Gnomesayin?

 

[rust_preacher]

So, I have this SB-2 with a 1984 neck (1989 body) that needs a regret and a new nut. The job will cost me too much to recover in sale value. The only thing wrong with the bass is the wide neck (I have decided to only keep my Jazz-width neck basses).

What if, since the the frets will be off, I will ask a quote for a neck reshape? Shaving off the neck sides, keeping the pocket shape? To make it 49 mm wide, rounded neck profile? That way, the bass would see some play time.

Do it or not?

 

[metron]

What I noticed is that the hole for the key and the nut were essentially making a dip - if you did a cross section, it would be a subtle V - and the key was not able to get into the nut because it's length wouldn't allow it to slide in due to the angle. So I'd start with the key (no damage to the bass) and get it fairly short. The shorter you make the key, however, the less range you will have to turn it because the sides of the hole start to interfere. You'd want to make sure there's enough room for it to turn at least 1/6 of a rotation, or more, so that each time you max out your range, you can still get it back in for the next turn.

Frankly, I'd start with cutting the key and then look to remove as little wood as possible if it still doesn't fit. Hopefully not a matched headstock.

I was looking this over last night and there is a chance it might work. I'm going to try anyway because worst case scenario, a cheap allen key is sort of ruined. Great advice and much appreciated. I'll keep you posted!

In the meantime, I was able to grab pics. A good perspective was a little hard to capture though. You can sort of see the angle of the channel here. Also, the top edge of the nut is roughly at the same level as the front face of the headstock. That should give an idea of how deep it is.

 

[fishstix]

I was looking this over last night and there is a chance it might work. I'm going to try anyway because worst case scenario, a cheap allen key is sort of ruined. Great advice and much appreciated. I'll keep you posted!

In the meantime, I was able to grab pics. A good perspective was a little hard to capture though. You can sort of see the angle of the channel here. Also, the top edge of the nut is roughly at the same level as the front face of the headstock. That should give an idea of how deep it is.

Also, they make allen wrenches with ball ends. They don't need to go deep and may allow you to get enough of a key in to turn the rod. Just a thought.

 

[TomB]

I was looking this over last night and there is a chance it might work. I'm going to try anyway because worst case scenario, a cheap allen key is sort of ruined. Great advice and much appreciated. I'll keep you posted!

In the meantime, I was able to grab pics. A good perspective was a little hard to capture though. You can sort of see the angle of the channel here. Also, the top edge of the nut is roughly at the same level as the front face of the headstock. That should give an idea of how deep it is.

View attachment 3312625
View attachment 3312626

Just thought I'd weigh in as I had a mid-2000's SB2 with the same malady. The short Allen key didn't quite solve it - I was very worried about stripping the nut. Long story short, we did Dremel out the opening and it worked fine in the end. It WAS a matching headstock, but it was black, and flat black looked pretty good on the repaired section.

 

[oldskoolskatedad]

I apologize now for this being a long post with many photos.

Last week I took delivery of an '81 L2KE that I purchased off Ebay. It was shipped via FedEx from Illinois on 1/26 and arrived here in Wisconsin on 1/31, during the wonderful polar vortex we were enjoying. I decided I would play it safe and brought the unopened box down to my unheated basement (48 deg). The next day I take the case out of the box but do not open it, infrared thermometer reads 48 deg surface temp. I decide to leave it in the basement until Saturday. Saturday morning I take it upstairs where its 67 deg and let it acclimate some more unopened as I was going to be gone for the weekend.

Now it's Monday morning and it's time to finally open the case and see what we have. I pop the latches, lift the lid and and the smell that wafts up instantly transports me to being at the library as a kid flipping through the card catalog to check out Encyclopedia Brown & Choose Your Own Adventure books. I had never consciously associated a smell with the library but here it was and it was invoking wonderful memories.

Unfortunately my overzealous acclimation process had not prevented an abundance of finish checks from occurring, most likely during the shipping process.

Somewhat disappointed, I tune it up, plug it in and all aesthetic issues are immediately forgotten! This has never happened before but I totally imprinted on this instrument (my wife and daughters love the Twilight series). I could no longer care less about the finish checks, especially as every other L2KE I had ever seen had at least as many as this now had. There is literally no sign that anyone had ever played this bass before. Frets and board are perfect, no head or body dings, no buckle rash, nothing!

So today I pick it up and I'm just messing around on the couch unplugged and I can't put it down, all these new little riffs just keep bubbling up to the surface. I realize it's been over an hour and I go to hang it up and I notice that there are significantly less finish checks!

After I snap these photos, I decide to see what happens if i press my hands over the remaining checks for a minute. Well as you can see the finish is now blemish free, I had no idea that this could happen though I am thoroughly pleased to say the least.

 

[RocketMusic]

Dang, that's a Christmas Miracle in February right there!! Congrats on your good fortune.

I have a '75 Fender P in Natural that has checks just like that. I just pressed on it, and the cracks did not go away. LOL

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

I apologize now for this being a long post with many photos.

Last week I took delivery of an '81 L2KE that I purchased off Ebay. It was shipped via FedEx from Illinois on 1/26 and arrived here in Wisconsin on 1/31, during the wonderful polar vortex we were enjoying. I decided I would play it safe and brought the unopened box down to my unheated basement (48 deg). The next day I take the case out of the box but do not open it, infrared thermometer reads 48 deg surface temp. I decide to leave it in the basement until Saturday. Saturday morning I take it upstairs where its 67 deg and let it acclimate some more unopened as I was going to be gone for the weekend.

Now it's Monday morning and it's time to finally open the case and see what we have. I pop the latches, lift the lid and and the smell that wafts up instantly transports me to being at the library as a kid flipping through the card catalog to check out Encyclopedia Brown & Choose Your Own Adventure books. I had never consciously associated a smell with the library but here it was and it was invoking wonderful memories.

Unfortunately my overzealous acclimation process had not prevented an abundance of finish checks from occurring, most likely during the shipping process.

Somewhat disappointed, I tune it up, plug it in and all aesthetic issues are immediately forgotten! This has never happened before but I totally imprinted on this instrument (my wife and daughters love the Twilight series). I could no longer care less about the finish checks, especially as every other L2KE I had ever seen had at least as many as this now had. There is literally no sign that anyone had ever played this bass before. Frets and board are perfect, no head or body dings, no buckle rash, nothing!
View attachment 3312951
View attachment 3312953

So today I pick it up and I'm just messing around on the couch unplugged and I can't put it down, all these new little riffs just keep bubbling up to the surface. I realize it's been over an hour and I go to hang it up and I notice that there are significantly less finish checks!
View attachment 3312957
View attachment 3312958

After I snap these photos, I decide to see what happens if i press my hands over the remaining checks for a minute. Well as you can see the finish is now blemish free, I had no idea that this could happen though I am thoroughly pleased to say the least.
View attachment 3312960
View attachment 3312961

That's awesome!

Meanwhile, I paid extra to have checking done on my Tribute L2k when I refinished it

 

[Gravedigger Dav]

Dang, that's a Christmas Miracle in February right there!! Congrats on your good fortune.

I have a '75 Fender P in Natural that has checks just like that. I just pressed on it, and the cracks did not go away. LOL

Having spent time playing in cold weather environments, I used this method:

1. Bring the base in the case into the room where you will be playing it. Don't open the case, let it sit for an hour or so.
2. Open the case briefly, a few seconds, then immediately close it again.
3. Repeat #2 until the bass feels room temperature to the touch.

It will take a few hours, but it will not craze the finish.

 

[Basshappi]

After I snap these photos, I decide to see what happens if i press my hands over the remaining checks for a minute. Well as you can see the finish is now blemish free, I had no idea that this could happen though I am thoroughly pleased to say the least.
View attachment 3312960
View attachment 3312961

That is amazing!
Congrats by the way!

 

[ahbass2500]

Finally got my JB5 back from setup. Love it except for the B string buzz past the fifth fret. Goes back tomorrow to have the action raised a little. Strung it with Infeld jazz rounds (extremely low tension strings). Like the tone. Not sure if I will put them back when they need replaced. Prefer the feel of Jazz Flats.

Here is a pic of all 3 G&L fives.

 

[TDR1138]

Also, they make allen wrenches with ball ends. They don't need to go deep and may allow you to get enough of a key in to turn the rod. Just a thought.
View attachment 3312770

What concerns me about that is how little the wrench actually contacts with the nut. I mean, even the graphic doesn't make it look like there's a ton of contact.

 

[Iridescentone]

A) There is literally no sign that anyone had ever played this bass before. Frets and board are perfect, no head or body dings, no buckle rash, nothing!

B) I realize it's been over an hour and I go to hang it up and I notice that there are significantly less finish checks!

C) I decide to see what happens if i press my hands over the remaining checks for a minute. Well as you can see the finish is now blemish free,

A) Huh.
B) Huh!
C) Huh!?

That's all I got.

 

[oldskoolskatedad]

A) Huh.
B) Huh!
C) Huh!?

That's all I got.

Right?! Mind blown!