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Exactly!! Been looking for one for a few years now, when this one popped up I went for it!You beat me to it, first time I've seen a
SunB back too.
Great find Bulltproof, be espesially pleasing for a Leftie, as they're not exactly thick on the ground.
String choices are sooo subjective. To me the stock D'Addario's could sound good with some carful amp tweaking, but htey could also be overly brash / bright and harsh. They were shredding my fingers like I was playing a cheese grater. I primarily play flat wounds and my normal go-to string when I'm stringing up a new bass is DR Legends Flats. That's whats on my L1505 and I'm happy with them. Took that "too sharp / nasal" bit right off the bass, I can get a good old school thump, a punchy rock tone or a bright tone that goes well in much of the CCM that I play.
True, I am taking Mephistos advice and trying Cobalt flats. I have been meaning to try them for a while anyway. I love flat wounds, but I slap enough to where I only have flats on a Pbass right now. On my other basses, I have pressurewounds. I wanted to try something new, so Cobalt Flats are the first pick here.
Tho I haven't tried them on my L2K, I had them on a couple other basses and they I expect should work well with the pre/tone stack.
They're intersting strings to play, with the strange feel of cobalt on the fingers. They sound somewhere between a flat and a round. I'm preferring nickel rounds because i can achieve a brighter tone and shape it better. I don't feel thwt flats give as much scope for tone shaping.
A funny thing happened at practice last night. Our guitarist, who always has some sort of vintage Fender, Gibson, etc, that is much older than he is showed up with a Tribute ASAT guitar that he'd just spent $400 on. It's easily the least expensive guitar in his collection.
During a break, I gave him some ribbing about it because while I generally have a G&L with me, he's always smirked at them and asks when I'm going to get a "real" Fender. (My answer to that is that G&L is Fender 3.0, once he got it right.)
He had a somewhat bewildered look on his eyes and answered "I freakin LOVE this thing!"
Welcome to the family!
During a break, I gave him some ribbing about it because while I generally have a G&L with me, he's always smirked at them and asks when I'm going to get a "real" Fender. (My answer to that is that G&L is Fender 3.0, once he got it right.)
He had a somewhat bewildered look on his eyes and answered "I freakin LOVE this thing!"
Welcome to the family!
Don't you love it when someone sees the way, the truth, and the light? 
Got some white pearl knobs and white tips for the switches. Looks pretty cool to me
Any small cosmetic mod that makes your bass stand out even more is definitely the way to go!
Still digging that L2500? I had TI flats on it for a while and they sounded great.
I'm primarily a nickel rounds player. I have 2 L2000 basses. One wears nickel rounds and the gets butthe majority of play but the other wears Cobalt flats. Amazing thump with the growl of rounds is how I hear them. Just a little more complex in harmonics than any other flats I've tried and more flexible too. Bare in mind I've never tried Chromes.
Absolutely! Using it on a project now. It sounds really awesome with the cobalt flats.
Did ya get them yet? What is your impression? I tried to describe them well but words can only convey so much.
How tight do you guys make the bridge saddle tightening screw (side of the bridge) on your G&L's?
Yesterday I did a needed setup on my JB. After the final intonation I tightened that screw up much tighter than I had previously (honestly, I'm not sure why I did that). When I plugged in my first thought was WOW, this thing sounds great...different that it ever did before; cleaner, fuller, just better all the way around and like a different bass.
Previously I didn't think I was leaving it loose but the added tension made a huge difference.
When I first got this bass, someone had screwed this screw in from the inside of the bridge and it wasn't doing it's job. I had a bugger of a time getting it out but after that I only tightened it up to take any lateral slack out.
Also, I have 2 loose/rattling clover leafs on my LB-100. I thought it was a rattling truss rod but it's definitely the clover leafs. G&L sent me 2 replacements so I'll do the screw and tuners at the same time.
I'll do a setup and the screw on my Kiloton as well....new basses? 
Yesterday I did a needed setup on my JB. After the final intonation I tightened that screw up much tighter than I had previously (honestly, I'm not sure why I did that). When I plugged in my first thought was WOW, this thing sounds great...different that it ever did before; cleaner, fuller, just better all the way around and like a different bass.
Previously I didn't think I was leaving it loose but the added tension made a huge difference.
When I first got this bass, someone had screwed this screw in from the inside of the bridge and it wasn't doing it's job. I had a bugger of a time getting it out but after that I only tightened it up to take any lateral slack out.
Also, I have 2 loose/rattling clover leafs on my LB-100. I thought it was a rattling truss rod but it's definitely the clover leafs. G&L sent me 2 replacements so I'll do the screw and tuners at the same time.
I'll do a setup and the screw on my Kiloton as well....new basses?
I did, I appreciate your advice. So far I really love the tone I am getting with them a lot. It's got a lot of punch, but is more balanced across the frequency range than the Nickels were. Slap sounds good too, which is awesome for flats.
This bass was already easy to get in a mix, but now it's on another level. I am going to keep working on some tones over the next week, but so far I'm very happy. Great match for the bass, I appreciate your help!
How tight do you guys make the bridge saddle tightening screw (side of the bridge) on your G&L's?
Yesterday I did a needed setup on my JB. After the final intonation I tightened that screw up much tighter than I had previously (honestly, I'm not sure why I did that). When I plugged in my first thought was WOW, this thing sounds great...different that it ever did before; cleaner, fuller, just better all the way around and like a different bass.
Previously I didn't think I was leaving it loose but the added tension made a huge difference.
When I first got this bass, someone had screwed this screw in from the inside of the bridge and it wasn't doing it's job. I had a bugger of a time getting it out but after that I only tightened it up to take any lateral slack out.
Also, I have 2 loose/rattling clover leafs on my LB-100. I thought it was a rattling truss rod but it's definitely the clover leafs. G&L sent me 2 replacements so I'll do the screw and tuners at the same time.
I'll do a setup and the screw on my Kiloton as well....new basses?
Personally, I tighten it as much as I can without (and this is a feel thing) damaging the nylon front end. It's certainly much more than just pushing the saddles together. And, yup, it makes quite a difference.
