G&L Club Part 7

[svtbass]

Puzzling indeed! But as far as I can tell (which is admittedly only so far) it's the case. Here is what Ken Baker said on the bassesbyleo forum in this thread: "The current trussrod also applies lateral pressure but is double action, meaning it can apply either back-bow or forward-bow and the nut is not removable." And G&L's store page for truss rod nuts state that "Current US models and Tributes built 2015 and later have dual-action truss rods with integrated truss nut that is welded on, not replaceable."

Yes the nut is welded to the truss rod. I went through this with G&L service after picking up a used 2018 L2K from GC and the nut was broken off. Luckily I could return it. IME the new design isn't as sturdy as the old rods and as Ken stated all G&L necks US & imported switched over sometime in 2015.

Someone has a brand new Tribute SB2 neck for sale in the classifieds so no need to fret.

 

[jmlee]

Puzzling indeed! But as far as I can tell (which is admittedly only so far) it's the case. Here is what Ken Baker said on the bassesbyleo forum in this thread: "The current trussrod also applies lateral pressure but is double action, meaning it can apply either back-bow or forward-bow and the nut is not removable." And G&L's store page for truss rod nuts state that "Current US models and Tributes built 2015 and later have dual-action truss rods with integrated truss nut that is welded on, not replaceable."

Well, Ken would know. I'm guessing it's the wording. There must be a weld in the structure somewhere which keeps the truss nut from being removed—not from being turned.

 

[McFarlin]

A question for JB5 owners:

Did anyone opt for a 12" radius? If so, were you able to try the 9.5" and experience the difference?



Details:

One is currently available (in-stock at factory) and includes nearly every option I would select (I'm a lefty, so this is rare), and the radius is standard 9.5".

I noticed the L-2500 is a standard 12" radius. I wonder if there was better player feedback with the 9.5" radius on the JB5, due to the slightly different standard neck specs (modern C vs medium C).

My LB-100 has a 12" radius on the standard 1-5/8" medium C neck, and it feels great.
My StingRay 5 fretless is presumably 11", and that one also feels great.
I do prefer either of those to the 4-string jazz necks I have played.
I also have a custom 4-string with a slim neck, 1.5" nut, and 9"-14" compound radius. It's the easiest to play but sometimes feels a little thin front-to-back.

I'm fine going between 19mm and 17.5mm bridge spacing. So, I doubt the JB5 17mm will bother me.
Yesterday, I was able to try two right-handed basses (held lefty). One was an Ibanez SR1305. Similar nut width as the JB5 but with a 12" radius, 16.5mm bridge spacing; liked it. The other was a Fender Deluxe Active Jazz 5, slightly wider nut and bridge spacing (18mm?), also 12" radius; hated it. This could have been a difference in setup, not sure.

In a band setting I play all over the neck (but usually not much above the 17th fret); fingerstyle and pick playing (some palm-muting with both), double stops and chords occasionally, fingertapping and slapping rarely-to-never.

I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the several months and a few hundred dollars to get a bass (otherwise identical) with only the radius spec changed.

It's not that much difference, and the only way to know is to try it. And I should focus less on specs and more on technique, theory, fundamentals, etc. But, I went ahead and typed all this anyway.

 

[TomB]

Make sure you try out a 17mm spacing before you order. I always find this matters more than radius personally, but I agree 9.5 is small for a 5.

 

[4stringsjack]

Well, Ken would know. I'm guessing it's the wording. There must be a weld in the structure somewhere which keeps the truss nut from being removed—not from being turned.

Most likely the nut is welded to a partially threaded rod, and the entire rod turns within a pair of captive female-threaded blocks (one at either end inside the neck; the blocks are held stationary by the wood and the threaded rod turns to put it in either tension or compression with an adjacent rod to induce bow in one direction or the other).

 

[jmlee]

Most likely the nut is welded to a partially threaded rod, and the entire rod turns within a pair of captive female-threaded blocks (one at either end inside the neck; the blocks are held stationary by the wood and the threaded rod turns to put it in either tension or compression with an adjacent rod to induce bow in one direction or the other).

NIce! That would make excellent sense for the dual action described.

 

[lowfreqgeek]

Well, Ken would know. I'm guessing it's the wording. There must be a weld in the structure somewhere which keeps the truss nut from being removed—not from being turned.

Look at the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] (they won't allow pics to be copied, sorry).

This is a double-acting truss rod where the nut is welded to the shaft that turns.

 

[jmlee]

Look at the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] (they won't allow pics to be copied, sorry).

This is a double-acting truss rod where the nut is welded to the shaft that turns.

Right-e-o! It’s not a nut at all then, it’s now a fixture to apply torque to the threaded rod.

 

[nitrobrother]

...the nut is welded to the shaft that turns.

So it's a bolt...

 

[Nedmundo]

A question for JB5 owners:

Did anyone opt for a 12" radius? If so, were you able to try the 9.5" and experience the difference?

I prefer flatter fretboards generally, and love the 12" radius boards on three of my G&L basses. For a few years, I had low-level GAS for a JB-5, and if I'd ordered one, would have specified the 12" radius. But without a band, I couldn't justify the expense.

Then I saw a used JB-5 available locally which had the stock 9.5" radius. I was able to test it, and thought I was unlikely to buy it because of the radius. But it felt great, the price was right, and it had a nice lightweight empress body in Clear Orange, which honors Gritty, so I went for it.

I think it works for me because of the slim rear profile (which you noted), Plek-leveled frets, and the nicely rolled fretboard edges. It's very comfortable overall, and I enjoyed playing it last night on "stage" (actually a garage floor we shared with an old Chevelle SS on blocks, but hey, it's rock n' roll). Would I prefer the 12" radius? I think so, but so far I've been happy with the neck.

By contrast, the Fender Deluxe Active Jazz V doesn't have nicely rolled edges and I think it has a thicker rear profile, so despite the 12" radius I'm not crazy about that neck. I prefer my JB-5's neck, no question. (I do also prefer the G&L's narrower spacing.)

G&L has made a big move to 9.5" radius fretboards as standard on most guitars and basses, with the L-2500, M-2500, and MJ-5 as some of the few exceptions. I think they've done this partly to split the difference between their former 12" and 7.5" options, and also to make their instruments feel more familiar to those used to Fenders, most of which have 9.5" radii. In fact, I came to G&L after a few years of playing mostly 9.5" radius Fenders, and at first the 12" radius boards didn't feel as natural, especially at first grab. But I soon realized I played a little better with the flatter boards, and started to develop the preference.

 

[McFarlin]

I prefer flatter fretboards generally, and love the 12" radius boards on three of my G&L basses. For a few years, I had low-level GAS for a JB-5, and if I'd ordered one, would have specified the 12" radius. But without a band, I couldn't justify the expense.

Then I saw a used JB-5 available locally which had the stock 9.5" radius. I was able to test it, and thought I was unlikely to buy it because of the radius. But it felt great, the price was right, and it had a nice lightweight empress body in Clear Orange, which honors Gritty, so I went for it.

I think it works for me because of the slim rear profile (which you noted), Plek-leveled frets, and the nicely rolled fretboard edges. It's very comfortable overall, and I enjoyed playing it last night on "stage" (actually a garage floor we shared with an old Chevelle SS on blocks, but hey, it's rock n' roll). Would I prefer the 12" radius? I think so, but so far I've been happy with the neck.

By contrast, the Fender Deluxe Active Jazz V doesn't have nicely rolled edges and I think it has a thicker rear profile, so despite the 12" radius I'm not crazy about that neck. I prefer my JB-5's neck, no question. (I do also prefer the G&L's narrower spacing.)

G&L has made a big move to 9.5" radius fretboards as standard on most guitars and basses, with the L-2500, M-2500, and MJ-5 as some of the few exceptions. I think they've done this partly to split the difference between their former 12" and 7.5" options, and also to make their instruments feel more familiar to those used to Fenders, most of which have 9.5" radii. In fact, I came to G&L after a few years of playing mostly 9.5" radius Fenders, and at first the 12" radius boards didn't feel as natural, especially at first grab. But I soon realized I played a little better with the flatter boards, and started to develop the preference.

Thanks for taking the time to read and for writing such a great response.
You confirmed the idea that while I might like the 12" radius better, 9.5" will probably be just fine.

 

[RocketMusic]

Unfortunately this seems to be a more complex (and expensive) issue than I'd anticipated because the truss rod nut in post-2015 Tributes is welded to the truss rod and therefore the nut itself is not replaceable .

So the shop owner said the options are: (1) replace the truss rod, (2) heat and reshape the neck, which he gave a 50/50 chance to hold the shape, and (3) new neck. (3) is out since my understanding is that G&L doesn't sell necks. (1) is unfortunately just about the same price I paid for the bass in the first place, but since it's the only permanent fix I'm leaning towards that. I would rather just front the cash, eliminate the issue, and not risk further and more serious issues down the road.

Seems to be pretty clear cut but has anyone else faced this issue? The shop is pretty reputable so I assume there isn't some other easier fix out there, but this seems like the right place to ask.

Anyway, lesson learned x2! And another little weight on the scale for custom ordering something myself some day (that glguitarsgenerator site really is incredibly dangerous).

Just thought I'd mention that G&L absolutely does sell replacement necks. I've connected several customers with their customer service folks over the years to have that happen. Not to get your hopes up, but they may replace the neck under warranty even if you're not the original owner... but don't bank on that.

It certainly worth reaching out them, regardless of the warranty coverage. You can reach their customer service folks at (714)897-6766 extension 156.

Good luck!

 

[Kriegs]

G&L absolutely does sell replacement necks

That's been the scuttlebutt around here (specifically in the thread) for quite some time. I don't know if it was true in the past or if folks have just had bad luck (person the phone didn't know that they were available, bad timing (none available at the time) or something else. I can only say that in the past 2 years, while looking for parts for different builds that I was considering, I've spoken to G&L headquarters twice and both times, they had necks available.

 

[RocketMusic]

That's been the scuttlebutt around here (specifically in the thread) for quite some time. I don't know if it was true in the past or if folks have just had bad luck (person the phone didn't know that they were available, bad timing (none available at the time) or something else. I can only say that in the past 2 years, while looking for parts for different builds that I was considering, I've spoken to G&L headquarters twice and both times, they had necks available.

The only hangup I've run into is when someone wants to add a neck. Like say they have a fretted bass, and they want to buy a fretless neck so that they can swap necks when needed. When selling a replacement neck, G&L typically wants to get their hands on the original neck so they can destroy it. In the past, I think they've encountered several instances where somebody put a genuine G&L neck on a warmoth (or whatever) body and then tried to sell the instrument as a genuine G&L. G&L attempts to prevent that sort of thing by only selling replacement necks in cases where they can recover/destroy the original neck.

Weird, but understandable.

 

[Kriegs]

The only hangup I've run into is when someone wants to add a neck. Like say they have a fretted bass, and they want to buy a fretless neck so that they can swap necks when needed. When selling a replacement neck, G&L typically wants to get their hands on the original neck so they can destroy it. In the past, I think they've encountered several instances where somebody put a genuine G&L neck on a warmoth (or whatever) body and then tried to sell the instrument as a genuine G&L. G&L attempts to prevent that sort of thing by only selling replacement necks in cases where they can recover/destroy the original neck.

Weird, but understandable.

In my case, I was looking to buy a neck, tuners, MFD pickups and a saddlelock bridge. I told them that I was using it to build a custom bass and they didn't mention that they wouldn't sell it to me for that. In any event, I ended up going different routes both times so I never ended up purchasing the necks.

 

[_seafarer]

Just thought I'd mention that G&L absolutely does sell replacement necks. I've connected several customers with their customer service folks over the years to have that happen. Not to get your hopes up, but they may replace the neck under warranty even if you're not the original owner... but don't bank on that.

It certainly worth reaching out them, regardless of the warranty coverage. You can reach their customer service folks at (714)897-6766 extension 156.

Good luck!

The only hangup I've run into is when someone wants to add a neck. Like say they have a fretted bass, and they want to buy a fretless neck so that they can swap necks when needed. When selling a replacement neck, G&L typically wants to get their hands on the original neck so they can destroy it. In the past, I think they've encountered several instances where somebody put a genuine G&L neck on a warmoth (or whatever) body and then tried to sell the instrument as a genuine G&L. G&L attempts to prevent that sort of thing by only selling replacement necks in cases where they can recover/destroy the original neck.

Weird, but understandable.

Maybe I heard something like that and it was the basis for my earlier impression that they don't sell necks. I ended up picking up svtbass's spare neck (thanks again!) but at the suggestion of another user had also reached out to another dealer who said they could check with G&L to see if they had any necks available. So all in line with what you're saying. Thanks very much for clarifying though, and good to have that info.

 

[ok-djmiller]

Picked up this beauty last weekend. Used from 2017 but completely immaculate.

It is, by far, the nicest bass I have ever owned. Plays like a dream, I am awed by the build quality.

LB-100

• ok-djmiller
• Sep 23, 2019
• g&l lb-100 passive

 

[RocketMusic]

Picked up this beauty last weekend. Used from 2017 but completely immaculate.

It is, by far, the nicest bass I have ever owned. Plays like a dream, I am awed by the build quality.

LB-100

• ok-djmiller
• Sep 23, 2019
• g&l lb-100 passive

The saddle lock bridge and G&L's LB-100 pickup make for a fantastic P style sound. No mud, but plenty of bottom and plenty of articulation.

I love both of my LB-100's, and I'm honestly not sure I've ever heard a bad one. I think that saddle lock bridge is G&L's ace in the hole, it makes for very consistently good sounding basses.

 

[lowfreqgeek]

Maybe I heard something like that and it was the basis for my earlier impression that they don't sell necks. I ended up picking up svtbass's spare neck (thanks again!) but at the suggestion of another user had also reached out to another dealer who said they could check with G&L to see if they had any necks available. So all in line with what you're saying. Thanks very much for clarifying though, and good to have that info.

They do from time to time sell blemishes and other unfinished necks with nothing more than a G&L logo, and no serial numbers, in the online store ( I bought one), but they don't build necks to order. That's different than replacing a neck under warranty, or replacing a failed neck, in which case they are going to require the original neck in return. Also, if they are replacing a neck for legitimate reasons, they can keep the serial number from being reused by destroying the original neck.

 

[Slaphound]

Through a dealer, I bought a custom L2k in 2006 or 7 and after a year or so, I wanted to change the neck from a maple fretboard to rosewood. In my case, I had that same dealer deal with G&L for me. I think I paid around $200 for it and G&L let me keep the neck. That neck sold somewhere. Maybe here on talkbass or ebay.