G&L Club Part 7

[stingray69]

Hmmm. . . I wonder if that whole battery in/battery out thing isn't psychological. I will have to try that with my L2K and psyche myself out - I mean hear if there's a difference.

In retrospect, I've decided to keep the battery installed. I do find that I quite enjoy the active and active+treble boost mode when playing in a live situation.

Both modes give a greater amount of note punch & treble kick over passive mode - it may be a bit aggressive when playing solo or practicing/recording at home (especially active+treble boost mode), but both of those two options are very handy on-the-fly tone adjustments that work very, very well in a full band context.

That finish..........

Your L2500 Tribute is a beauty!

Thanks! I was extremely torn between the Redburst or Blueburst, but the moment I pulled it from the box - I knew I had made the right choice (for me).

That maple neck really sets off the finish, but I still over the Blueburst whenever I see pics of it. I'm hopelessly corrupted by Talkbass GAS.

 

[Nedmundo]

In retrospect, I've decided to keep the battery installed. I do find that I quite enjoy the active and active+treble boost mode when playing in a live situation.

Both modes give a greater amount of note punch & treble kick over passive mode - it may be a bit aggressive when playing solo or practicing at home (especially active+treble boost mode), but both of those two options are very handy on-the-fly tone adjustments that work very, very well in a full band context.

My experience was similar with an L-1500. I thought active mode added a little punch and "bite" to the tone that enhanced the aggression. I replaced the R7 resistor on the preamp to greatly reduce the treble boost in active mode, and it sounded cool. If I had an L-2x00, I might use active mode on stage if it has a similar effect, but I doubt I'd ever use the active/treble boost mode.

 

[stingray69]

My experience was similar with an L-1500. I thought active mode added a little punch and "bite" to the tone that enhanced the aggression. I replaced the R7 resistor on the preamp to greatly reduce the treble boost in active mode, and it sounded cool. If I had an L-2x00, I might use active mode on stage if it has a similar effect, but I doubt I'd ever use the active/treble boost mode.

That's exactly how I tend to view the active switch - as an "aggressive" switch, lol.

I find active mode adds a very noticeable punch to the note (and also a slight treble increase) and I find myself using this mode in a live situation to beef up the pickups when they are in parallel mode.

The only times I found myself using Active+Treble Boost mode is when playing live & running in Series - and I really found it very useful to cut through a dense mix. Otherwise, I think it's just too aggressive for Parallel (even in a live situation), at least for me and my gear.

But I figure since the L2500 is all about extreme versatility at your fingertips, I may as well keep all the tones at my disposal.

 

[TDR1138]

As mentioned earlier, the preamp in the L-2000 is meant to lower the impedance of the circuit, which helps with clarity when you have long signal chains, long cables, etc.

IMO, active on the L-2000 is really beneficial when you need to run direct into a PA and only have a passive DI. Happens somewhat regularly in churches, from what I’ve seen. “Here, just plug in,” as they hand you a budget-friendly passive DI that the Guitar Center worker sold them as part of their ‘churches need this’ bundle.... The preamp will really clean up the signal. Makes the L2k a good bass for when you don’t know the situation you’re going into.

Other than being shrill or aggressive, the treble boost will give a little push in the high mids when the tone is rolled back, but I really never use it.

I feel like the L-1500 preamp was taking the L-2000 pre and trying to tweak and repurpose it to get a glassy active Ray sound from it. It wasn’t built for that, which is why I think it fell a little short.

 

[stingray69]

As mentioned earlier, the preamp in the L-2000 is meant to lower the impedance of the circuit, which helps with clarity when you have long signal chains, long cables, etc.

The other I keep forgetting to mention is that I'm finding the L-2500 is so punchy, clear & perfect sounding that I've stopped using all manor of preamps that I own. I have several very nice pres at my disposal and I truly feel that they are not an improvement over the bass-into-cab tone. Sure, I still tweak my amp's EQ a small bit for the room, but this kind of took me by surprise. I actually sat down the other day and pulled out a bunch of preamps and EQ pedals, etc. that I would normally use with a lot of my other basses to beef them up & get them sounding punchy & clear.

However, to my surprise, I just couldn't find anything that really made a significant improvement over the straight to amp tone - and a couple of my preamps even seemed to be taking steps backwards on the clarity of the tone a bit. So perhaps it's the lower impedance of the circuit as mentioned, or the impedance coupled with the amazing tone of the MFD's, but it's been quite a surprise to me. The L2500 just didn't need any external help to my ears - it was already there at its core tone. Even a trusty SansAmp was just like yuck, gimme that clear, punchy, growly, straight-to-amp tone that the L2500 has on it's own. I'll save the pre's and what not for other instruments if they need them. So now the only pedal I've been bringing with me lately is a nice tuner, lol.

 

[donahue]

The other I keep forgetting to mention is that I'm finding the L-2500 is so punchy, clear & perfect sounding that I've stopped using all manor of preamps that I own. I have several very nice pres at my disposal and I truly feel that they are not an improvement over the bass-into-cab tone. Sure, I still tweak my amp's EQ a small bit for the room, but this kind of took me by surprise. I actually sat down the other day and pulled out a bunch of preamps and EQ pedals, etc. that I would normally use with a lot of my other basses to beef them up & get them sounding punchy & clear.

However, to my surprise, I just couldn't find anything that really made a significant improvement over the straight to amp tone - and a couple of my preamps even seemed to be taking steps backwards on the clarity of the tone a bit. So perhaps it's the lower impedance of the circuit as mentioned, or the impedance coupled with the amazing tone of the MFD's, but it's been quite a surprise to me. The L2500 just didn't need any external help to my ears - it was already there at its core tone. Even a trusty SansAmp was just like yuck, gimme that clear, punchy, growly, straight-to-amp tone that the L2500 has on it's own. I'll save the pre's and what not for other instruments if they need them. So now the only pedal I've been bringing with me lately is a nice tuner, lol.

I found the same thing to be true with my L2K. Plugged straight into a GK 400RB is pure magic. I have a lot of cool pedals and don't really need them with the L2K, however with a Rusty Box, look out! Now that sounds awesome.

 

[Spupilup]

I found the same thing to be true with my L2K. Plugged straight into a GK 400RB is pure magic. I have a lot of cool pedals and don't really need them with the L2K, however with a Rusty Box, look out! Now that sounds awesome.

I use a Rusty Box on occasion as well. Not for the faint of heart with an L2000!

 

[jfh2424]

I find the active settings are good for solos. The volume boost is helpful then.

 

[jefff100]

Hey all - if you haven't seen this before, I found this article an enjoyable read about George Fullerton & his early years with Leo.

George Fullerton, Leo Fender's Longtime Partner, on Their Legacy of Guitar Building | Bacon's Archive

 

[Bulky Bass]

For all you Kiloton owners, is there a ramp that can be added in front of the pickup? I’ve used the zero mod rest and it didn’t work (too high) and don’t want to drill into the wood with a standard thumbrest. I have seen some Stingray owners have a wood ramp they use and wondering if these work for the Kiloton. I’ve noticed the sonic sweet spot is right in front of the pup but my fingers naturally gravitate to the pickup when I’m playing which I’m trying to avoid.

 

[tubatodd]

I've been tasked with picking out a Christmas gift for myself. My wife wants me to provide several choices and she'll pick what I get. Right now.....I'm extremely content with my array of basses. I'm fighting the urge to list several G&Ls like I already have, just so I can add different color variations.

I thought about adding an SB2 but I don't like the lack of tone knob. A kiloton might be a nice choice.

I ended up getting a bass I didn't know existed.....a Sandberg Electra VS4. It's basically an active LB100 with a 2 band preamp. The necks are PLEKed and bound. Weight and size-wise, it is actually smaller and lighter than the LB100. It reminds me of my Sterling by Musicman SB4. I can't find another one for sale anywhere in the US.

It's a nice instrument. Unfortunately, mine arrived..............with a faulty volume pot. That is now 2 of the last 3 basses I've ordered online had a faulty volume pot. This time it's a bit different. This time the volume stays wide open. Last time it wouldn't completely go to zero. So it's at a local luthier to get it sorted out. Chicago Music Exchange said they would compensate me for the repair work.

 

[a-37]

I ended up getting a bass I didn't know existed.....a Sandberg Electra VS4.

Electra is sort of Sandberg's version of G&L Tribute series. Parts come from Korea and the bass is assembled in Germany.

 

[TDR1138]

I ended up getting a bass I didn't know existed.....a Sandberg Electra VS4. It's basically an active LB100 with a 2 band preamp. The necks are PLEKed and bound. Weight and size-wise, it is actually smaller and lighter than the LB100. It reminds me of my Sterling by Musicman SB4. I can't find another one for sale anywhere in the US.

It's a nice instrument. Unfortunately, mine arrived..............with a faulty volume pot. That is now 2 of the last 3 basses I've ordered online had a faulty volume pot. This time it's a bit different. This time the volume stays wide open. Last time it wouldn't completely go to zero. So it's at a local luthier to get it sorted out. Chicago Music Exchange said they would compensate me for the repair work.
View attachment 3645224

Good luck getting it sorted. Those have always intrigued me mainly because you don’t really see active Ps that don’t have a J pickup in the bridge. Curious to hear your impression of it.

 

[Iridescentone]

For all you Kiloton owners, is there a ramp that can be added in front of the pickup? I’ve used the zero mod rest and it didn’t work (too high) and don’t want to drill into the wood with a standard thumbrest. I have seen some Stingray owners have a wood ramp they use and wondering if these work for the Kiloton. I’ve noticed the sonic sweet spot is right in front of the pup but my fingers naturally gravitate to the pickup when I’m playing which I’m trying to avoid.

You can try what I did with my L-1500. Home Depot has free samples of laminate flooring in all sorts of wood grain colors. They're just the right size and height. I trimmed off the "tounge" with a miter saw, then colored the raw edges with a Sharpie pen. Attached it with a dab of two-sided tape. Worked perfectly. I chose the darkest sample to compliment the ebony board on the bass, looked pretty darn good too.

I took it off when I was planning to sell the 1500. Can't find the pic that I took with the ramp in place, but you get the idea. Best part?....free.

 

[filler83]

I ended up getting a bass I didn't know existed.....a Sandberg Electra VS4. It's basically an active LB100 with a 2 band preamp. The necks are PLEKed and bound. Weight and size-wise, it is actually smaller and lighter than the LB100. It reminds me of my Sterling by Musicman SB4. I can't find another one for sale anywhere in the US.

It's a nice instrument. Unfortunately, mine arrived..............with a faulty volume pot. That is now 2 of the last 3 basses I've ordered online had a faulty volume pot. This time it's a bit different. This time the volume stays wide open. Last time it wouldn't completely go to zero. So it's at a local luthier to get it sorted out. Chicago Music Exchange said they would compensate me for the repair work.
View attachment 3645224

id like to hear impressions of this too!

 

[Bulky Bass]

You can try what I did with my L-1500. Home Depot has free samples of laminate flooring in all sorts of wood grain colors. They're just the right size and height. I trimmed off the "tounge" with a miter saw, then colored the raw edges with a Sharpie pen. Attached it with a dab of two-sided tape. Worked perfectly. I chose the darkest sample to compliment the ebony board on the bass, looked pretty darn good too.

I took it off when I was planning to sell the 1500. Can't find the pic that I took with the ramp in place, but you get the idea. Best part?....free.

Thank you I will try that!

 

[svtbass]

Thank you I will try that!

Not a ramp but a very comfortable stick-on thumb rest. I don't know how it would affect paint but they're great on pickguards.

 

[kev451]

Ok question, I’ve had my G&L L2000 for a bit over a month. And I’ve finally figured out the pre and the MFC pups and how to set it to where I like it. Now the issue I’m having is I’m a hard striker for the most part. Yes I play with a pick (yes some people will call it blasphemous) but I strike hard and almost strum my strings. The issue I’m having is it feels like the strings are tight. Like there’s no give. Now I’ve got other basses which have some play or give to the tension on the strings. I tune to E standard. Does anyone else have this issue. This is a big deal for me. I have grown so fond of this bass I’ve made it my main bass over my Spector which I’ve played for over 6 years. And would hate to have to give it up for this any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !

 

[TomB]

Ok question, I’ve had my G&L L2000 for a bit over a month. And I’ve finally figured out the pre and the MFC pups and how to set it to where I like it. Now the issue I’m having is I’m a hard striker for the most part. Yes I play with a pick (yes some people will call it blasphemous) but I strike hard and almost strum my strings. The issue I’m having is it feels like the strings are tight. Like there’s no give. Now I’ve got other basses which have some play or give to the tension on the strings. I tune to E standard. Does anyone else have this issue. This is a big deal for me. I have grown so fond of this bass I’ve made it my main bass over my Spector which I’ve played for over 6 years. And would hate to have to give it up for this any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !

Have you tried changing strings? Round core round-wounds tend to feel more flexible than the hex-core types like the D'Addario XL's that I think G&L ships with.

 

[ahbass2500]

What do you have it strung with? My advice is a good setup and possibly lower tension strings. Tight feeling strings are definitely not the bass IMO. Mine feels pretty low tension with TI Jazz Flats.