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G&L Club Part 7

He has done work for G&L, from what I've read.
yes he has :) with fantastic results. G&L internal shop has done great work over time.... still he has no equal.
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I’ve got a weird issue with the M2500 Tribute. I’ve got a line 6 g10 wireless transmitter that works great on my MJ-4 (same preamp). When I use it with the M2500, I can’t turn the volume all the way down. It works fine plugged in.

I’ve shielded the control cavity on the MJ.

On the M2500, none of the pots are connected directly to ground (verified with a continuity tester between pot case and ground on output jack).

On my MJ all are grounded.

Is the M2500 preamp different than the MJ? Do I just need to shield the control cavity?

shielding the control cavity fixed it. It was painted with conductive paint, but that wasn’t working. All better.
 

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Probably a few, but I'm sure glad it's not a stock color.

I may as well warn you now, I won’t waste any opportunity to get you to keep posting pictures of it. Hell, I’ll even go out of my to create opportunities, too.

Just ask @/\/\3phist0, he’ll vouch for me. ;)
 
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I may as well warn you now, I won’t waste any opportunity to get you to keep posting pictures of it. Hell, I’ll even go out of my to create opportunities, too.

Just ask @/\/\3phist0, he’ll vouch for me. ;)
^^^ quite the enabler for Bass self vanity!!!
FWIW -- @dave64o --- THE Sparkle may become available in the future.
WHY one may ask?
Personal conditions, and then fact that I need to collect funds to support my own building efforts :)
Just putting it out there.....









then you can take your own damn pictures ;)
 
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So, something I'm curious about...what kinds of tones have people here been able to get out of their L2000s/L2500s? I've been messing around a bunch to get in the ball park of both a Thunderbird and a Justin Chancellor-ish Wal and I've been pleasantly surprised at how close I've been able to get with both.

Hey man - care to share your settings/string types etc. to achieve these tones?
 
Hey man - care to share your settings/string types etc. to achieve these tones?
Yeah...haven't done too much experimenting with strings yet, but here's what I've found so far.

"Wal" tone is pretty simple. Both pickups, volume like 50-70%, run in series (or whatever one is more trebly) with treble boost on, cut treble to about 80% and bass to 60%. Add amp settings to taste. I run it all through my boss GT-1B so I've been messing around with a patch that has a hi-pass distortion effect, with a GK preamp sim (boost some mids and treb). Still a work in progress and you're not gonna get full Wal but it sounds pretty decent. Part of the Justin Chancellor tone is from brand new stings so the newer the better. I still have the factory D'Addarios on mine.

For my TBird tone I'm trying to sound like Jared Followill from Kings of Leon. Roll treble all the way down, dime the bass, run both pickups, parallel (or whatever one is the bass boost), then run the treble boost. This is important because although his tone is mostly Thunderbird thump there is a bit of high end in there as well...however really any treble on the knob and you get a kind of nasal treble sound that won't blend in too well. With the knob rolled off and treble boost on you get a bit of the high end tone without that nasal sound. It is VERY growly still. It's like a TBird on steroids. My other attempt at replicating a T Bird was with my Jazz Deluxe and I just had to straight up put flats on it. I'm again using the factory D'Addarios for this TBird-alike (and Jared uses D'Addario rounds anyways) and so far it's been pretty decent sounding overall. The L2000 is a lot more agressive and growly and rough than my Jazz Deluxe ever has been.

After that, same deal with the Boss GT-1B. Depending on the song l'll run through a compressor first, and then I have a patch that has a Param. EQ to boost some mids and bass, a "fat" preamp to thicken the sound a bit more, and a Big Muff copycat effect with the gain rolled down fairly low for a little dirt if the song calls for it. Again, another work in progress but it's a pretty decent soundalike.

Half the fun of this bass is finding out what kinds of sounds are hiding in there. You can set up a decent foundation and then coax out the rest with preamps, effects, and amp settings.
 
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shielding the control cavity fixed it. It was painted with conductive paint, but that wasn’t working. All better.

With G&L, even if you think the cavity is shielded with conductive paint, it's usually only one coat—not nearly enough to really produce the Faraday cage effect. When I've seen this and taken an ohmmeter to it, there was a ridiculously high resistance between any two points on the coated surface or between the coating and say a pot ground. With that stuff, it takes a minimum of three good coats to get high enough conductance to effectively shield a cavity—and as we know, G&L's shielding motivation could use some upgrading.:meh:
 
I've posted this before; years ago did extensive testing on RF shielding materials.
Copper tape is MUCH better than even the most expensive shielding coatings.
We could get an easy 100 dB of attenuation from the low mHz range to 10 gHz.
Even the paint with silver (well over $100 a pint even in 1990's dollars) was not nearly as good.
Expectations of the inexpensive coatings sold by guitar shops should no be that high IMO.
The paint is so much quicker to apply though.
Also, copper tape with conductive adhesive is not really necessary so long as you use an overlap condition and burnish the joint with a Popsicle stick.
 
I've posted this before; years ago did extensive testing on RF shielding materials.
Copper tape is MUCH better than even the most expensive shielding coatings.
We could get an easy 100 dB of attenuation from the low mHz range to 10 gHz.
Even the paint with silver (well over $100 a pint even in 1990's dollars) was not nearly as good.
Expectations of the inexpensive coatings sold by guitar shops should no be that high IMO.
The paint is so much quicker to apply though.
Also, copper tape with conductive adhesive is not really necessary so long as you use an overlap condition and burnish the joint with a Popsicle stick.

Agreed completely. As well, most of the conductive paints use a rather toxic solvent base and you really want to have excellent ventilation when using them. I made myself quite nauseated one evening playing with coating conductivity in my basement shop. In the lab, we use conductive colloid paints for preparation of scanning electron microscopy samples (draining accumulated static negative charge from the streaming electrons to ground). There you can really notice the difference in conductivity between the carbon colloid (so-so at best) and the silver (quite excellent). Of course, we're also using rather small quantities and have the operational funds to support buying the good stuff. At home, the copper tape/sheet is both easier and more effective—and it's like making paper dollys. Craft time!:hyper:
 
I'm sure most of you have figured something like this out already, but I want to document it for future users trying to figure this out, since "tone recipies" (for lack of a better term) for this bass are pretty scarce and I think having somewhere to reference it will be helpful for other people who are using this bass and wanting to see what they can do with it without going in completely blind. I've been doing a little more experimenting today, and I think I figured out a good reliable P-alike tone:

Vol: ~60%
Neck Pickup
Series mode (bass boost)
Treble Boost on (if you're going for that trebly 90's rock tone and more thickness, preamp on for thickness, preamp off for more vintage style)
Treble Knob: 10-40% (to taste, depends on how clanky you want it)
Bass Knob: 50-60%

Obviously a lot of it is to taste, but when you roll the treble knob off on that neck pickup, the P-tone really comes out. Running it active/treb boost makes it really full and rich.

My test song on this was "Hey Jealousy" by the Gin Blossoms since it's a really good example of a pretty pure, unadulterated P-bass tone (picked and tone cranked) and has a few places that showcase the clank and others that showcase the mixed P tone that we all know and love.

I also A/B'd my T-Bird-alike today against a few other combinations and here's what I've found sounds pretty reliable (at least as far as a KOL-alike tone goes)

Vol: ~40% (to taste)
Both pickups
Series mode (bass boost)
Treble Boost on
Treb rolled all the way off
Bass rolled all the way up

My GT-1B settings/chain is:
Bassman-alike Preamp
Gain: 55
Level:45
Bass:67
Middle:55
Treble:60
SP Type:8x10

Graphic EQ:
+5DB 40
+10DB 100
+12DB 250
+15DB 500 & 1K & 8K
+17DB 2.5K
Level -2

Tonemodify: Fat
Low: 7
High: 16
Level: 47

You can obviously just sub the GT-1B settings with other preamps and amp settings and get something similar. Probably something better if we're being honest. The biggest difficulty here is trying to get a little bit more treble clarity out of it without getting the chimey nasal treble growl that these basses have. I kind of think this is the best I can do with what I have but honestly it's a pretty decent sound-a-like in a mix. If anything it's a bit strong on the mid side but I guess that's why we're calling it a work in progress still :) . I used Pickup Truck and The Face as my KOL test songs.
 

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