G&L Club Part 7

[/\/\3phist0]

Gotcha...much to consider. I rarely back off the tone so maybe something like a push/pull with some other control function would be useful. Maybe for now I'll just change out the ones in there with higher quality and perhaps 500k. Be a good little soldering project for me to try my hand at.

BTW, the volumes are split shaft and the tone is solid shaft. Is that "normal?"

Thanks again for your insights!

Yeah normal to mix shaft types, when availability vs cost comes in to play.
Your best bet is to choose a supplier that pre-screens for tolerances, as a "500k"
pot for ex: could test anywhere between 300-700K and each one could be different.
I prefer to pay someone a couple bucks to ensure that it's as close to the value I expect for each.

**edit- expanding on the thought that you rarely roll off the tone, and assuming you mean you generally leave it dimed, you could install a 3 way switch.
consider: seldom will you use the bridge soloed? so: 3 positions-neck-both-both series. the benefit of this :
1) fewer resistives between the pickup/jack.
2) when in the middle position, you can pre-select the ratio using your volume controls.
3) adding the series option, with MFD's that is quite a boost in output.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

I can't remember if it was here or somewhere else that I read of someone wiring their SB-2 to have a master vol and then an additional vol for the bridge pickup. I can understand the idea behind that - in practice would it work straightforwardly?

 

[dwellers]

Yeah normal to mix shaft types, when availability vs cost comes in to play.
Your best bet is to choose a supplier that pre-screens for tolerances, as a "500k"
pot for ex: could test anywhere between 300-700K and each one could be different.
I prefer to pay someone a couple bucks to ensure that it's as close to the value I expect for each.

**edit- expanding on the thought that you rarely roll off the tone, and assuming you mean you generally leave it dimed, you could install a 3 way switch.
consider: seldom will you use the bridge soloed? so: 3 positions-neck-both-both series. the benefit of this :
1) fewer resistives between the pickup/jack.
2) when in the middle position, you can pre-select the ratio using your volume controls.
3) adding the series option, with MFD's that is quite a boost in output.

I like where you're headed with that...are you saying to then leave both pickup volume controls in place and replace the tone with the 3-way switch?

TBH I've been less than thrilled with the SB-2. Considered selling it actually. Thought I would like it more so maybe some playing around like this would be fun and turn it into something I enjoy using more. I've sanded the glossy finish off the neck so why not?

Oh, all the knobs have set screws so the split pots are really quite pointless.

** EDIT-- something like this? 4PDT Pickup Selector Switch - 3 Position (On/On/On) | DiMarzio

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I like where you're headed with that...are you saying to then leave both pickup volume controls in place and replace the tone with the 3-way switch?

TBH I've been less than thrilled with the SB-2. Considered selling it actually. Thought I would like it more so maybe some playing around like this would be fun and turn it into something I enjoy using more. I've sanded the glossy finish off the neck so why not?

Oh, all the knobs have set screws so the split pots are really quite pointless.

Exactly, leave the volumes and replace the tone with the 3 way.
The SB-2 did not have a tone at all
Leverage that "extra" hole for something "interesting"
A rotary pickup selector (with 2 volumes) would serve the same purpose. not sure it would fit in the cavity though.

 

[dwellers]

I can't remember if it was here or somewhere else that I read of someone wiring their SB-2 to have a master vol and then an additional vol for the bridge pickup. I can understand the idea behind that - in practice would it work straightforwardly?

You know, it almost seems to function like that. I just did a little test setting the P pickup at full volume and dialing up the J pickup resulted in very little volume change. So the P pickup acts like a master volume now.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

You know, it almost seems to function like that. I just did a little test setting the P pickup at full volume and dialing up the J pickup resulted in very little volume change. So the P pickup acts like a master volume now.

Split coil is so much hotter, and the position at the bridge soapbar near the bridge, senses less string vibration amplitude- so almost always comes through that way , as with most PJ configs.
On my Cort, with a super powerful Aggie MM style DC hum in bridge position, it overpowers the neck Seymour Jazz so the opposite is true

 

[dwellers]

the Split coil is so much hotter, and the position of the bridge soapbar near the bridge almost always comes through that way , as with most PJ configs.
On my Cort, with a super powerful Aggie MM style DC hum in bridge position, it overpowers the neck Seymour Jazz so the opposite is true

Now if I could just find a wiring diagram...and I'll need to buy a soldering iron!

This G&L part would do the trick too I think: Switch - DP3T (on/on/on)

I think it's the same switch that's on my Kiloton.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Now if I could just find a wiring diagram...and I'll need to buy a soldering iron!

This G&L part would do the trick too I think: Switch - DP3T (on/on/on)

I think it's the same switch that's on my Kiloton.

but the shaft on that is smaller than the hole in the pickguard, of course you could use a washer.
many parts and diagrams can be had here.
Guitar & Bass Wiring Diagrams & Resources | GuitarElectronics.com
or: Strat Wiring Diagram | Seymour Duncan
Careful your head does not explode

if you want to bypass the soldering: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[dwellers]

but the shaft on that is smaller than the hole in the pickguard, of course you could use a washer.
many parts and diagrams can be had here.
Guitar & Bass Wiring Diagrams & Resources | GuitarElectronics.com
Careful your head does not explode

I think the DiMarzio is the right fit. You're right about the pick guard hole. Bigger switch too. Well this should be fun!

 

[Boitameuh]

I'd put a rotary selector for neck, neck+J and series modes, so you would keep the simple 2 knobs look.

Something like this: Rotary Switches

 

[dwellers]

but the shaft on that is smaller than the hole in the pickguard, of course you could use a washer.
many parts and diagrams can be had here.
Guitar & Bass Wiring Diagrams & Resources | GuitarElectronics.com
or: Strat Wiring Diagram | Seymour Duncan
Careful your head does not explode

if you want to bypass the soldering: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The Mad Hatter stuff is interesting not only because it's non-solder...their pots are 250/500 so that you could, for example, make the P pickup 250 if you want a warmer tone and the J pickup on a 500 pot for a brighter sound. And since they aren't soldered, it's relatively easy to go in and swap or try other combinations. He told me it would be a custom config but that they would supply a schematic for me to follow as well. Sounds intriguing.

I am definitely going to experiment a bit with this bass since it just hasn't grabbed me yet. But with the new neck finish and perhaps some controls that better suit my playing and situations, it might become a good friend for a long time.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

The Mad Hatter stuff is interesting not only because it's non-solder...their pots are 250/500 so that you could, for example, make the P pickup 250 if you want a warmer tone and the J pickup on a 500 pot for a brighter sound. And since they aren't soldered, it's relatively easy to go in and swap or try other combinations. He told me it would be a custom config but that they would supply a schematic for me to follow as well. Sounds intriguing.

I am definitely going to experiment a bit with this bass since it just hasn't grabbed me yet. But with the new neck finish and perhaps some controls that better suit my playing and situations, it might become a good friend for a long time.

Yep some pretty slick configs / modular stuff available $$$ but glad your horizons have expanded, and may find an inspiration that makes it work for you.

 

[dwellers]

Yep some pretty slick configs / modular stuff available $$$ but glad your horizons have expanded, and may find an inspiration that makes it work for you.

I know this is always a "YMMV" situation and a very subjective sense of what is "good" or "right," BUT...I think I would like a more hi-fi tone from the SB-2. That may be heresy to some but I don't want a preamp and I don't want to swap out pickups (I don't think there are any replacements for the bridge MFD anyway).

So what I'm thinking is actually the reverse of what I said above-- that if I wire the split-P with a 500 to get a little more brightness and the bridge J with a 250 pot for a lot warmer tone, that will give me more of what I want. Does that sound logical?

Oh, and Ed from Mad Hatter has been emailing me today (Sunday of a 3 day holiday). Pretty good customer service in my book. Bodes well for ongoing support when I screw it up.

 

[donahue]

I know this is always a "YMMV" situation and a very subjective sense of what is "good" or "right," BUT...I think I would like a more hi-fi tone from the SB-2. That may be heresy to some but I don't want a preamp and I don't want to swap out pickups (I don't think there are any replacements for the bridge MFD anyway).

So what I'm thinking is actually the reverse of what I said above-- that if I wire the split-P with a 500 to get a little more brightness and the bridge J with a 250 pot for a lot warmer tone, that will give me more of what I want. Does that sound logical?

Oh, and Ed from Mad Hatter has been emailing me today (Sunday of a 3 day holiday). Pretty good customer service in my book. Bodes well for ongoing support when I screw it up.

500k on an MFD P pup is intense. I did it only because that's what was laying around at the time.

 

[dwellers]

500k on an MFD P pup is intense. I did it only because that's what was laying around at the time.

Good intense or bad intense? Did you keep it? CTS or Dunlop?

 

[donahue]

Yeah its still in there but I would prefer it to be 250k. 250k sounds better on any P pup imo.

 

[dwellers]

Yeah its still in there but I would prefer it to be 250k. 250k sounds better on any P pup imo.

Fair enough. The cool thing about the Mad Hatter stuff is that it is solderless but also both 250 AND 500 so I can experiment and try different combinations.

 

[donahue]

If I were you I would try the 250 on the P and the 500 on the J. That would add brightness from the J pup and intensify the SB2 effect, in my understanding.

 

[jcburn]

Hey folks - if I was to run a single MFD P pickup (ala SB-1) in one of my P basses - what volume and tone values are standard? I'm gonna guess 250k for both pots, what cap value for the tone? .047?

And is there a special kind of magic to get their online store to respond to emails? I got contact details from the magical Ken Baker of Basses By Leo forum. Have emailed them a few times now asking if they will sell pickups directly internationally (as opposed to me buying them through a dealer) but no response. Does anyone know a better way of making contact or better still does anyone have experience buying directly from the G&L Online Store internationally?

 

[a-37]

To be honest I`m not impressed with the quality of the tuners on a premium instrument and will be sending the tuner back to the shop along with the bill and see what happens.

Sounds like the tuner issue that comes up now and then, here for example a few posts on the subject:
G&L Club Part 7

That is, people have used super glue or protected the metal surfaces with something and pressed the connection tight with some tools. No more rattle. (I'm not saying you should accept them coming out of G&L like that but this is a fix that does not require shipping or waiting for replacement parts.)