• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

Gigbag recommendations for L2K?
Bought this G&L logo custom gig bag,off the bay,really well padded.
IMG_0626.jpg
 
Decided to install frets in the ghost line fretless,I posted earlier. Bought the bass thinking I could get use to playing a fretless. The L2000 really caught my attention with the transparent blue finish,and maple binding. So after trying to familiar myself and of course not allowing myself more time,decided to make it a fretted bass,which I am more comfortable playing. I found out later that G&L has medium jumbo frets,but I told the luthier it used jumbo frets. Also replaced the nut,other nut had the A string nut notch too large. He said he had already ordered the jumbo frets,so it has jumbo frets. Don't seem to be that much difference. Showing some before and after pictures.
ckreabv0oi4nu9a9h3br (1).jpg
hirysvevgxp9ap1dtmbz.jpg
IMG_0627.jpg
IMG_0628.jpg
 
Damn, that's purdy!!

How did you take that picture? It makes the gap between the E and A strings look bigger than the other 2 gaps. Especially at the first fret. (Or perhaps I've been staring at my monitor too much today...)
Thanks,
Damn, that's purdy!!

How did you take that picture? It makes the gap between the E and A strings look bigger than the other 2 gaps. Especially at the first fret. (Or perhaps I've been staring at my monitor too much today...)
Thanks,might be just the angle,I took the pic?
 
Decided to install frets in the ghost line fretless,I posted earlier. Bought the bass thinking I could get use to playing a fretless. The L2000 really caught my attention with the transparent blue finish,and maple binding. So after trying to familiar myself and of course not allowing myself more time,decided to make it a fretted bass,which I am more comfortable playing. I found out later that G&L has medium jumbo frets,but I told the luthier it used jumbo frets. Also replaced the nut,other nut had the A string nut notch too large. He said he had already ordered the jumbo frets,so it has jumbo frets. Don't seem to be that much difference. Showing some before and after pictures.View attachment 4165457 View attachment 4165458 View attachment 4165459 View attachment 4165463
Man, that blueburst with the wood binding and dark rosewood board is just gorgeous!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chrome Dome
Back in January....
Just counted on my fingers and toes and have realised that the factory have had my SB-1 back with them for about six weeks, just so they can replace the neck. Six weeks! It only took them 10½ weeks to build the whole thing in the first place
Well, sorta. The whole factory was shut down the week between Christmas and New Year's, so they didn't actually have the bass in their hands until Jan 3.
Ok.... NOW it's six weeks! :p :D

I'm still totally smitten with the BB424 I bought between Christmas and New Year, so I'm still impeccably Zen about all this :angel:
 
I have to say, the volume and tone pots on both my G&L basses feel different, cheap and almost like they came from different parts bins. Plus, on my SB-2T, the tone knob has a definite wobble to it.

Has anyone swapped out the pots for something of higher quality? If so what brand and was it easily done? I'm looking for a higher quality feel and if there was enhanced function that came along for the ride, that would be cool.

And on the SB-2, I would prefer a blend knob and master volume rather than the separate volume controls. Easy mod?

Thanks!
 
I have to say, the volume and tone pots on both my G&L basses feel different, cheap and almost like they came from different parts bins. Plus, on my SB-2T, the tone knob has a definite wobble to it.

Has anyone swapped out the pots for something of higher quality? If so what brand and was it easily done? I'm looking for a higher quality feel and if there was enhanced function that came along for the ride, that would be cool.

And on the SB-2, I would prefer a blend knob and master volume rather than the separate volume controls. Easy mod?

Thanks!

I've modded my Tribute SB-2 with Noll 250k linear taper stacked volumes and a CTS 250k audio taper tone pot. I don't recommend a blend control since, depending on where you have your neck pickup volume set, the sweet point for blending in the bridge pickup doesn't seem to be a fixed fraction: say, 70%. I set my neck volume, add the bridge volume I want and then use tone where applicable. YMMV
 
  • Like
Reactions: dwellers
Well a couple of weeks ago I re joined the club. Bought a CLF 2000 in black and maple. Lovely looking bass that I got for a decent price in a sale saving £500. Having not liked the MFD`s in the past I took more time getting my sound sorted out and am really enjoying it.

But whilst playing through my practice amp yesterday (no studios are open and having a jam with mates is a heavy fine offence this side of the pond), when playing the open E there was a strange rumble from the bass. After a bit of checking, I found that the clover leaf on the E tuner was moving very slightly if you try to move it. I had this with a tuner on a Yamaha a while back. If you put your finger on the clover and play the E string, no noise.

Rather than going to all the faff of sending it back and being without the bass for a while as the guitar shops aren`t open and are online only, I thought I would just order one from the online shop. $17.95 gets me a new tuner but then postage to the UK is $53.00!!! For that price I can get a set of 4 Schaller tuners that do the job fine from the UK.

To be honest I`m not impressed with the quality of the tuners on a premium instrument and will be sending the tuner back to the shop along with the bill and see what happens. On another note, the knobs will be getting changed as I`m not keen on the big silver dials. So I had a peek and 2 of the pots were solid shaft and one was a split shaft. A small point but I`m begining to have doubts about G&L quality. Having said all that it`s a really nice bass.
 
I've modded my Tribute SB-2 with Noll 250k linear taper stacked volumes and a CTS 250k audio taper tone pot. I don't recommend a blend control since, depending on where you have your neck pickup volume set, the sweet point for blending in the bridge pickup doesn't seem to be a fixed fraction: say, 70%. I set my neck volume, add the bridge volume I want and then use tone where applicable. YMMV
Since I have three pots, stacking the two volumes wouldn't be logical as it would leave me an open space. I suppose I could just get a new pick guard to cover it but not sure what the value would be other than the stacked volumes being in one spot? Am I missing something?

I understand what you're saying about the blend. If you want the P pickup at full volume and a bit of the J dialed in, you can't do that with a blend. Is that what you are getting at? Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jmlee
Since I have three pots, stacking the two volumes wouldn't be logical as it would leave me an open space. I suppose I could just get a new pick guard to cover it but not sure what the value would be other than the stacked volumes being in one spot? Am I missing something?

I understand what you're saying about the blend. If you want the P pickup at full volume and a bit of the J dialed in, you can't do that with a blend. Is that what you are getting at? Thanks!
Blend will have a volume drop in the middle. VVT is more (IMHO) better in a passive bass.
TAOT (the art of tone) via AMZ, Fleabay, reverb ,provide low tolerance pots, and high quality pots. G&L use CTS pots .
If you want it brighter overall use 500k pots. I prefer LIN for volume, AUDIO for tone.
I generally use 500k regardless of single/dual coil. A 250k for tone works well, but 500k LIN for volumes. IMHO!
My favorite pots are Dunlop Super's SUPER POT™ 500K SPLIT SHAFT POTENTIOMETER
Pricey, but high quality and feel. (only Audio taper though :( )
Amplified parts carries many quality parts also Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed

You "Could" get a push/pull for the tone to bypass the tone entirely.
OR
to get parallel/Series function.
 
Last edited:
I have to say, the volume and tone pots on both my G&L basses feel different, cheap and almost like they came from different parts bins. Plus, on my SB-2T, the tone knob has a definite wobble to it.

Has anyone swapped out the pots for something of higher quality? If so what brand and was it easily done? I'm looking for a higher quality feel and if there was enhanced function that came along for the ride, that would be cool.

And on the SB-2, I would prefer a blend knob and master volume rather than the separate volume controls. Easy mod?

Thanks!

I didn't have the fortune of finding out how the pots on my G&L feel long term because my lefty SB-1 arrived with two log pots (aka audio taper) rather than reverse log pots, effectively making both function more or less as on and off and nullifying the design altogether. I had CTS ones installed instead, which also provided an opportunity to shield the cavity.

It is odd that they pair such crude feeling pots with a nice Switchcraft jack, but oh well. Here's hoping that when I eventually and inevitably succumb to the RMC SB-1 dream the QC would be tighter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dwellers
Blend will have a volume drop in the middle. VVT is more (IMHO) better in a passive bass.
TAOT (the art of tone) via AMZ, Fleabay, reverb ,provide low tolerance pots, and high quality pots. G&L use CTS pots .
If you want it brighter overall use 500k pots. I prefer LIN for volume, AUDIO for tone.
I generally use 500k regardless of single/dual coil. A 250k for tone works well, but 500k LIN for volumes. IMHO!
My favorite pots are Dunlop Super's SUPER POT™ 500K SPLIT SHAFT POTENTIOMETER
Pricey, but high quality and feel. (only Audio taper though :( )
Amplified parts carries many quality parts also Invalid Link Removed

Invalid Link Removed

You "Could" get a push/pull for the tone to bypass the tone entirely.
OR
to get parallel/Series function.
I read somewhere that by using 500k pots in a Volume-Blend-Tone where the volume and blend are 500k, the sound will approximate a cranked 250k pot.

I could be completely misunderstanding the issue though. I am absolutely out of my element on the physics of this stuff. Thanks for your patience and advice!
 
I read somewhere that by using 500k pots in a Volume-Blend-Tone where the volume and blend are 500k, the sound will approximate a cranked 250k pot.

I could be completely misunderstanding the issue though. I am absolutely out of my element on the physics of this stuff. Thanks for your patience and advice!
it has to do with the loading , with a blend it's more difficult to control, the drop is the same with VVT with both volumes dimed, but you have more control with 2 volumes as to the "ratio" of pickup to pickup.
it's a heated never ending debate, Master Volume/Blend vs. Volume/Volume (pros & cons)

You could get some exotic prewired harnesses from this guy: kellingsound88 on eBay
 
Last edited:
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
  • Like
Reactions: Jim C and dwellers
it has to do with the loading , with a blend it's more difficult to control, the drop is the same with VVT with both volumes dimed, but you have more control with 2 volumes as to the "ratio" of pickup to pickup.
it's a heated never ending debate, Master Volume/Blend vs. Volume/Volume (pros & cons)
Gotcha...much to consider. I rarely back off the tone so maybe something like a push/pull with some other control function would be useful. Maybe for now I'll just change out the ones in there with higher quality and perhaps 500k. Be a good little soldering project for me to try my hand at.

BTW, the volumes are split shaft and the tone is solid shaft. Is that "normal?"

Thanks again for your insights!