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Gene Simmons LoBue Tribute Build

Just an update. I originally used a MIM bridge and the bass worked and sounded even among all 4 strings. I do final assembly with a MIA vintage threaded saddle bridge, and it doesn't fit great, the G string lines up poorly, and it sounds much weaker than the rest of the strings. After my gigs, I changed back to my MIM bridge, and all goes back to how it was.

I added graphite in the saddles, and it did help. The only two issues I still have are:
The D & G tuners just seem tighter than the E & A tuners.

When pressing the first frets, it goes the note goes sharp. I have a feeling the nut slots need to be filed down.

I've never had such issues with 34" basses I've made in the past.
 
My gig for the KISS Kruise at the Hard Rock. Of course, my wife has the part of the night where I'm not jumping around like a maniac. (Face palm)
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I think the nut is too high, according to your statement.

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From that picture it can be filed a little bit, but as long as it comfortable to play I wouldn't worry about it to much. Straight fretted instruments are never perfectly in tune all the way down the board.

To achieve this you end up with frets that look like this true temperament neck
LowTune_center_body.jpg
 
I took my bass into a reputable place to get looked at. The repair guy strongly felt that the nut was too high, and suggested I swap it out for a bone one.

This change may also help deaden some of the string "bong" noise when plucked hard.

Looking at the nut, I have a feeling that being that it was from a Danelectro Long Horn, I bet the nut was slotted for some of those real light shorty strings.

I still have the tiny tuners from the neck, and it would be a pain to string it with anything substantial.

He also suggested that the bass not staying in tune may be due to the excessive amount of wraps on my tuning posts.

I think I disagree with this since the string is wrapped around the post, and not on top of each other. I was just trying to get good downward pressure...
 
He also suggested that the bass not staying in tune may be due to the excessive amount of wraps on my tuning posts.

I think I disagree with this since the string is wrapped around the post, and not on top of each other. I was just trying to get good downward pressure...

I was always under the impression that more wraps on the post (without overlapping) was better than less wraps.
 
I was always under the impression that more wraps on the post (without overlapping) was better than less wraps.

As was I.

My Fender JBS has wraps all the way to the bottom of the post to help keep downward pressure. Especially critical for the A string.

He's not the guy doing the repair. He has a "bass guy", so I may get the same type of winding.
 
That guy has no idea what he is talking about, the wraps on the tuning post will not make it go out of tune unless they are wrapped all the way down to where it is hitting the tuner ferule. The nut material isn't the problem either, but a metal nut is more difficult to file.
 
That guy has no idea what he is talking about, the wraps on the tuning post will not make it go out of tune unless they are wrapped all the way down to where it is hitting the tuner ferule. The nut material isn't the problem either, but a metal nut is more difficult to file.

Once again, he isn't doing the repair.

We shall see what happens. Two of my buddies swear by his shop...
 
To answer the statement of wraps around a tunning peg, usually norm is 3 wraps, but you can do more as long as they dont overlap. As to your nut problem, Maybe swapping out for bone wouldnt be so bad, but i know that on my thunderbird bass (which is bolt on and has a three point bridge) was very hard to get the action to my liking. The nut is slotted high, but i got the action after days of working with it. IT sounds great now. But none the less you do to this bass, i'm astonished by how it turned out and decent gig shot (although it's blurry)