Ugh... nice attempt and a really nice presentation but a couple of really serious and potentially catastrophic errors here.
1. NEVER test an LED directly across a 9V battery, it's likely to damage the die. The current must be limited to less than 20mA to prevent damage, which might not show up for a while. If you look closely, you will see that the package has a flat side which aligns with the flat side of the silk screen.
2. Do not use solder braid on double sided boards with plated through holes. If you have a really light touch it might be ok, but the approved method is to remove the LEDs and clear the holes with a mechanical/vacuum solder sucker. Even though these are really rugged PCBs, it's easy to damage the pads and through hole plating with braid.
3. With the DeOxit, only a TINY TINY amount is necessary. More can lead to premature failure from washing lubricant to places it should not be, and attracting dirt down the road.
4. There is no reason whatsoever to remove the PCB from the chassis. The entire operation can be performed from the top in about 3 minutes from start to finish without any risk of damaging anything else.
5. There is ~350 volts present all over the inside of the chassis, be absolutely sure the HV (high voltage) bus is discharged... removing wiring/connectors can remove safety bleeders. Always measure before sticking your hands anywhere inside an amp like this.
Thanks, but..."attempt"? I'm pretty sure that word is used to describe a failed job, so I'll just assume you chose the wrong words there. I've played 2 shows and had 2 rehearsals since then without so much as a minor a minor glitch. It was done at a cost of pennies (a few inches of braid, a few squirts of DeoxIT, and some electricity for the iron). No mess...so far. I already calculated the risk. It's out of warranty, so in the worse case scenario, I learn something and have to pay to have someone to repair it as I would have to anyway, but that didn't happen. It took me a little over an hour while taking pictures, unless you want to consider the 3 days it sat unpluged. After working on numerous smartphones, laptops, tablets, PC's, amps, appliances, automobiles, cannons (the ones that go boom), plumbing, electrical, etc in my time, the "hard way" of removing the board was not rocket science for me and an absolute necessity with the tools I had on hand. I'm not insinuating that it's something everyone will want to do themselves, but, as you know, people will, and if no one is going to offer a method for them, then I figured I would start one.
Regarding the list of "potentially catastrophic errors here." I don't mean to be defensive, but I think I need to respond, based on the fact that I have addressed some of the items as per your criticisms (always welcome) and it seems you are making insinuations that are inaccurate of my approach regarding the cleaning of pots, that I wouldn't want people to assume of my method should they read your remarks...
1.) Duly noted. I got lucky...so far (too many times over the years to learn that lesson I guess). LED base shape and silkscreen notes have been added to establish proper polarity.
2.) "Do not use (de-)solder braid on double sided boards"....unless all you have is braid, time, and are experienced with it. Someday I'll get a vac desolder station within my budget, but I do this work so few and far between that at this time, I can't justify the expense of a new one.
3.) True...but I never insinuated that you spray it down like it's on fire.
4.) There is a reason....personal preference given the tools at hand. Braid won't pull the solder through the board from one side effectively. I also get to see the build. I'd never argue that a de-soldering vac/sucker isn't the absolute best way to go, it's just not the only way if you have experience. For those that would try this...the braid works great if you fray the end and poke it into the plated through hole. It will wick it right up, but when it stops, remove the heat and braid and cut a fresh end of braid and repeat until the hole opens up enough to get the new LED lead through. You could probably use the existing solder in the joint, but I am weary of this since re-use of solder has lead to cold-solder joints in my experience and I like to use fresh solder as much as possible.
4.5) "The entire operation can be performed from the top in about 3 minutes from start to finish without any risk of damaging anything else." ...so, while you want a $75.00 flat rate plus shipping both ways outside of my state with a turn around time far greater than doing it myself, I have a cost of practically nothing and can get it done pretty quickly. Others may come to the same conclusion I did and decide to wait till they have a real problem or create one by accident to justify the expense.
5) So true...I thought mentioning that it has been unplugged and the power rocker switch on for several days (capacitors drain much more quickly than this) was enough to eliminate that as a concern, but that's too assumptive on my part, so I added notes on that for potential skimmers. I agree that it is a responsibility to elaborate on the danger and importance of testing rather than assume it is known. I would say this should be the first thing to consider as a concern and I may add a special disclaimer section ahead of the steps when I have more time.
So yup...this job is best done by a professional with the right tools, experience and know-how, no doubt, but it can be done otherwise if you have a few tools, some experience, take caution, pay attention, and aren't afraid.
