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Genzler Amplification Club

I wouldn’t recommend that
Even at full volume - which I doubt you'd ever use - you'd have to be clipping the signal to start getting into the danger zone. In my experience a speaker will usually fail due to excursion before melting the voice coil ( unless there is a huge discrepancy).

Being that both came out around the same time - I would think the 2 were designed to function well with each other...
 
I'm considering buying the Genzler Magellan 800 and the 212T. I respect Jeff and his designs, but I don't think I have seen this before - The amp is 800 watts at 4 ohms and the cabinet is rated at 700 watts 4 ohm. I probable won't play at max volume very often, but maybe occasionally. Do I need to worry about toasting the cabinet?

No. Opinions on this vary, but I usually like having "more amp than speaker." The rating of the speaker is RMS (continuous power), and it's capable of handling wattage peaks well above 700w. Having enough wattage in reserve for those peaks means you won't run out of wattage and have the amp "fart out" when you hit it hard.

With any speaker, of any rating, just don't be stupid and dime the knobs.
 
Just stopping by to say that I finally ended up getting the Megellan 800 on Friday and needless to say, I am very impressed. I can now see why Jeff told me that people are calling it the Genzler Extremeliner. Serious power and tone coming from that amp. I have not gigged it yet but have tried it out quite a bit.

On Saturday I did an A/B on it with the Shuttle 6.2 and the Magellan just outplayed it immediately out of the box. I has so much girth, heft and the notes just seem to have so much weight. I read somewhere where someone said that the notes just exploded out of the cab. Yep, I agree.

Can anyone here tell me how many watts this amp puts out at 4 ohm when the switch is set at 2.67?
 
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I have that same rig.. It gets very Loud for its size and weight.. I don't use much EQ. Maybe a slight bass boost and i then add a touch of Contour "A" blue light ... It can make your pant legs move..
I've used tht rig on huge stages 7-10,000 type stuff and bar gigs.. No problems yet.. I seem to play louder in a smaller bar gig situation though and the rig does fill a room without PA almost all the time...
The cab will take mucho amounts pf power.. i believe it is rated conservatively at 700 watts.. The amp also it very potent!
If you don't use HUGE amounts of bass boost, they are a perfect match..
REMEMBER, the MG800 can handle loads that are lower than 4Ωs .... if you set the switch on the rear panel to 2.6 ohms... That way you could easily add another 112 cab in case you needed a little more ooouuumppph....
I have actually run the amp at 2Ωs (2x212 one was a Neox 212) without any issues at all ( with switch in 2.6 Ω setting) I would NOT recommend doing that.. i'm sure it would void any warranty.. and rightfully so..

Unless you are gigging in a situation where other players in the band are completely out of control and are running 100 watt guitar rigs etc... Then MG800 and MG212t can handle more than 95% of situations..


I'm considering buying the Genzler Magellan 800 and the 212T. I respect Jeff and his designs, but I don't think I have seen this before - The amp is 800 watts at 4 ohms and the cabinet is rated at 700 watts 4 ohm. I probable won't play at max volume very often, but maybe occasionally. Do I need to worry about toasting the cabinet?
 
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Even at full volume - which I doubt you'd ever use - you'd have to be clipping the signal to start getting into the danger zone. In my experience a speaker will usually fail due to excursion before melting the voice coil ( unless there is a huge discrepancy).

Being that both came out around the same time - I would think the 2 were designed to function well with each other...
I just meant I wouldn’t recommend turning anything up at full volume.
 
Nobody knows how many watts it puts out at 4 ohms with the switch set for 2.67?
I'm asking because this amp actually did something no other amp has been able to do, it made my GK NEO 410 4 ohm cab fart and I wasn't even really pushing it. As an example, I was running my GK 700rbII with the EQ pretty much flat, volume at about 10:00, boost at 12:00 and woofer at about 12:00. Then when I was showing my guitarist the Megellan, I set the EQ flat and the volume at about where the GK was and we both actually heard the cab fart. Surprised me big time as that has never happened before.

So I am thinking of setting the switch to 2.67 ohms to send a little less power to the cab when I run a single 410.
 
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Nobody knows how many watts it puts out at 4 ohms with the switch set for 2.67?
I'm asking because this amp actually did something no other amp has been able to do, it made my GK NEO 410 4 ohm cab fart and I wasn't even really pushing it. As an example, I was running my GK 700rbII with the EQ pretty much flat, volume at about 10:00, boost at 12:00 and woofer at about 12:00. Then when I was showing my guitarist the Magellan, I set the EQ flat and the volume at about where the GK was and we both actually heard the cab fart. Surprised me big time as that has never happened before.

So I am thinking of setting the switch to 2.67 ohms to send a little less power to the cab when I run a single 410.
Or
Turn the volume down - same thing
 
I'm considering buying the Genzler Magellan 800 and the 212T. I respect Jeff and his designs, but I don't think I have seen this before - The amp is 800 watts at 4 ohms and the cabinet is rated at 700 watts 4 ohm. I probable won't play at max volume very often, but maybe occasionally. Do I need to worry about toasting the cabinet?
I do agree with everyone commenting, this is a great match for power and performance. SVTB 15 should surely know with all the gigs he's done with the same rig. I always recommend more power for the amp that compared to the cabinet for the cleanest headroom.
 
Nobody knows how many watts it puts out at 4 ohms with the switch set for 2.67?
I'm asking because this amp actually did something no other amp has been able to do, it made my GK NEO 410 4 ohm cab fart and I wasn't even really pushing it. As an example, I was running my GK 700rbII with the EQ pretty much flat, volume at about 10:00, boost at 12:00 and woofer at about 12:00. Then when I was showing my guitarist the Magellan, I set the EQ flat and the volume at about where the GK was and we both actually heard the cab fart. Surprised me big time as that has never happened before.

So I am thinking of setting the switch to 2.67 ohms to send a little less power to the cab when I run a single 410.
Hey WickedG, to reduce the power output at 4 ohms you can set the Impedance Sw to 2.67----which would reduce the power to approx 530 watts. But you say that you set the volume the same as the GK amp, was that knob position or by similar volume output? Just curious.
You can also reduce the overall Master Vol control so that your can can better handle the Magellan 800.
 
Hey WickedG, to reduce the power output at 4 ohms you can set the Impedance Sw to 2.67----which would reduce the power to approx 530 watts. But you say that you set the volume the same as the GK amp, was that knob position or by similar volume output? Just curious.
You can also reduce the overall Master Vol control so that your can can better handle the Magellan 800.
Thank you Jeff. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. No I did not go by knob position, I went by similar output volume which just goes to show how powerful the Magellan seems. I am really impressed with it. I love how the notes just come charging out of the cab with this amp.

I completely understand how to set the gain, EQ and volume as I am not a newbie, It's just that this is the first head that I have ever tried on the GK cabinet that actually made it fart and I wasn't pushing it all that much. That is why I posted how I had the volume, EQ, boost and woofer set on the GK to give everyone an idea of how loud it was. I have actually ran the 700rb II much louder than that night and when I set the Magellan up the same way for that particular night, it totally surprised me. But then again we are talking about 300 watts difference between both amps.

Again, thanks Jeff. I appreciate the helpful information.
 
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Do the 12-3 cabs and the MG12T cabs use the same woofer? I got to play through a MG212t + 112t stack but not the arrays. Just curious as to if it is just the mids and highs that are presented differently, or if the lows and punch are different as well.

Yes, All of our 12" designs use the same high powered Faital drivers. I would say that both the MG-112T and BA12-3 cabs have similar depth to the LF but that the overall tonality is quite different between the two due to how the mid and high spectrum is reproduced differently. More about the dimension of the notes and the dispersion and projections with the Bass Array design.
Hope this helps.
 
A few more weeks of gigs with the Magellan 800 and one or two BA12-3’s and and I keep finding new things to love about this rig. Played beautiful 100 year old theater outside of Austin this weekend-I’ve played this room a few times with other rigs and it is a sounman’s nightmare- boomy and very live! For the size of the room and stage I’d have normally wanted both BA12’s, but as live as the room was I wanted to try just one and see if it would be enough. Turned out to be perfect-I’m still amazed at the number of gigs a single BA12 can cover. Even in a busy mix I can keep a controlled volume and still hear everything I playing. But on this gig- the way the BA 12 was able to cut through without being loud but still sounding warm and full was just great!

So.... I just added a slant version to the rig. Got it today and spent about 30 minutes with it! Looking forward to getting it out in the real world!
 
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I'm considering buying the Genzler Magellan 800 and the 212T. I respect Jeff and his designs, but I don't think I have seen this before - The amp is 800 watts at 4 ohms and the cabinet is rated at 700 watts 4 ohm. I probable won't play at max volume very often, but maybe occasionally. Do I need to worry about toasting the cabinet?

Nope.

Just don't expect a 212 to out put like a fridge.
 
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Nobody knows how many watts it puts out at 4 ohms with the switch set for 2.67?
I'm asking because this amp actually did something no other amp has been able to do, it made my GK NEO 410 4 ohm cab fart and I wasn't even really pushing it...
So I am thinking of setting the switch to 2.67 ohms to send a little less power to the cab when I run a single 410.

IME, what people describe as a cabinet "farting" is usually a situation of UNDER-powering, not overpowering. My layman's understanding is that you're basically running out of amp, and pushing into distortion, which on a solid-state or digital amp, isn't a warm, fuzzy goodness (like a tube amp would do) but rather a square wave distortion that will kill your voice coils.

I know this from experience, as a dude who borrowed my beloved Goliath Jr. pushed it with a vastly underpowered Hartke head, with the bass knob dimed, and it sounded like poopie until he released the magic smoke from both woofers about halfway through his set. Then it sounded like nothing at all. (He paid to have them rebuilt.)

Generally speaking, if you're getting farting from your cab - stop what you're doing and look at your settings. You may be able to increase input gain and decrease output volume to achieve the necessary volume with an improvement in headroom. And if you have the "bass" knob cranked way up, that draws a lot of wattage (and unless you're playing in a dub/reggae band, is probably a bit much).
 
Just received my new BA12-3 SLT! Am I the first in Canada???

Set it up with my BA12-3 and WHAMMY! Holy Sheit batman, what an experience. I quickly A/B'd each cab and also compared to running them both. I hit the Holy Grail of Bass Rigs. The only problem is I really really like both running together, so, so much for using a single cab for small gigs.....

Used my Metro Sadowsky, first passive, then with some bass and treb rolled in. MG800, flat EQ, A then B Contours, around 10:30ish. Also worked very nice up at 12 oclock.
BA 12-3SLT is slightly tighter and brighter, heard just a tinge more mids.
BA 12 regular, just a little deeper, seemed just a bit bassier. Preferred the reg, but this has been my main cab for a while
Together, Holy Grail of rigs. I saw the light.

Can't wait to get this out in gig conditions.
 
Just received my new BA12-3 SLT! Am I the first in Canada???

Set it up with my BA12-3 and WHAMMY! Holy Sheit batman, what an experience. I quickly A/B'd each cab and also compared to running them both. I hit the Holy Grail of Bass Rigs. The only problem is I really really like both running together, so, so much for using a single cab for small gigs.....

Used my Metro Sadowsky, first passive, then with some bass and treb rolled in. MG800, flat EQ, A then B Contours, around 10:30ish. Also worked very nice up at 12 oclock.
BA 12-3SLT is slightly tighter and brighter, heard just a tinge more mids.
BA 12 regular, just a little deeper, seemed just a bit bassier. Preferred the reg, but this has been my main cab for a while
Together, Holy Grail of rigs. I saw the light.

Can't wait to get this out in gig conditions.

Nice comments, StingRaySteve. And Yes you are the first in Canada. Thanks for rockin the ((G)) gear!
 
IME, what people describe as a cabinet "farting" is usually a situation of UNDER-powering, not overpowering. My layman's understanding is that you're basically running out of amp, and pushing into distortion, which on a solid-state or digital amp, isn't a warm, fuzzy goodness (like a tube amp would do) but rather a square wave distortion that will kill your voice coils.

I know this from experience, as a dude who borrowed my beloved Goliath Jr. pushed it with a vastly underpowered Hartke head, with the bass knob dimed, and it sounded like poopie until he released the magic smoke from both woofers about halfway through his set. Then it sounded like nothing at all. (He paid to have them rebuilt.)

Generally speaking, if you're getting farting from your cab - stop what you're doing and look at your settings. You may be able to increase input gain and decrease output volume to achieve the necessary volume with an improvement in headroom. And if you have the "bass" knob cranked way up, that draws a lot of wattage (and unless you're playing in a dub/reggae band, is probably a bit much).

Anytime you are obtaining a weird sound from an industry respectable amp, you need to look at what you are doing first. After all, that many people can't have it all wrong, and the manufacturer certainly didn't get it wrong. If it farts, then something is misunderstood.

 
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