yay, I finally got on a trend at the ground floor.
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Genzler - new amp for Jan 2016
- Thread starter FrenchBassQC
- Start date
yay, I finally got on a trend at the ground floor.
But the question is-- Is the same amount of current going to each 12" driver? The straight-up mathematics says that it probably would, but does anyone have some real-world experience to shed some light on this?
I have a Streamliner 600 and interested in if anyone knows how wide the bass and treble respons is for the Magellan?
Irrelevant, I use separate channels of a qsc plx power amp for each of them. one clean lows and one dirty highs
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Running off a single amp, as long as the drivers are the same - i.e. if a given 2x12 is the same as two of a given 1x12 -- I don't think it makes any difference whether the twelves are in one box or two -- electrically, they should be identical. Now, if there are differences in the crossovers (if the 2x12 and the 1x12 in question each use one tweeter, say, and are accordingly crossed over a little differently, the tweet in the 2x12 being padded more and/or crossed over higher) that could make a small difference, but I think it would be practically negligible. 2x12+1x12 is not a combination that I've gigged, though, so perhaps someone has info I don't.
- Sep 3, 2006
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- Authorized dealer for Dingwall, Genzler, Phil Jones Bass, Cort, Traynor, Yorkville Sound
I have done it like this - a lot in the past. I have also just used two small class d amps with an A/B/Y switch. It can make for an interesting setup. But of course more complicated than one amp and three cabs plug and go.
I operate entirely on the used market, so I am interested to see if this drives an uptick in the secondhand Shuttlemax market.
Jeff Genzler
Commercial User
- Feb 9, 2007
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- Currently GENZLER AMPLIFICATION / Formerly GENZ BENZ
No rack ears but a shelf style rack kit similar to a Steamliner is being considered.
Personally I have a hard time justifying with such light weight amps.
We're listening.......
Not sure exactly what you are asking here. By "real world experience" do you mean current measurements into the drivers, or are you asking if the 112/212 combinations gigs well? I've been using the 112/212 modular rig for 3 years or so and am completely satisfied with it. Very versatile and big rig capability. No, I have not put a multimeter on the drivers to measure the actual input current to each driver.
Yes, a rack kit would be great although not everyone needs one. It's just nice to have the option of keeping a tuner, power conditioner, and wireless in one lightweight 4U or so rack. Just plug and play! Thanks for listening Jeff.
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Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
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- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
FWIW, I have a very hard time rationalizing putting any expensive gear in a soft bag. As quite a few people have mentioned in this forum over the years, a smaller standardized rack format is sorely overdue IMHO.
- Mar 8, 2011
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- Authorized greenboy designs builder/Owner of BNA Audio
It's going to happen that somebody inadvertently runs at 2-ohms, and ...
B&O is rating at 2.67, but it has plenty of protection circuits and most likely the worst that would happen is an irritating shutdown. LEDs would turn on saying it's in protect mode. I would find it highly unlikely and permanent damage would be done. B&O will be at NAMM and when they get a few musician earfuls about their rating confusion they'll probably change the rating to 2 ohms, but with a lower power rating.
B&O is rating at 2.67, but it has plenty of protection circuits and most likely the worst that would happen is an irritating shutdown. LEDs would turn on saying it's in protect mode. I would find it highly unlikely and permanent damage would be done. B&O will be at NAMM and when they get a few musician earfuls about their rating confusion they'll probably change the rating to 2 ohms, but with a lower power rating.
I know the module pretty well---I've used it a lot. The amp barely gets warm at 2.67. Same problem as with the 250AX2 module. The 250 is essentially operating at 2 ohms per channel but bridged.(for a 4 ohm load) Lots of problems with 250 shutting down into 4 ohms. Unless you take heat dissipation seriously. At that point (with fans or a bigger heatsink) the 250 can do 4 ohms.
The 700 module at 2 ohms is the same story. If there is more attention to heat dissipation it should do it. I've run the 1000 module into 2.67---no problem--barely got warm. Into 2 ohms I could get it to thermal cycle. If I went nuts with heat dissipation it would probably be ok---but I truly feel that running any amp to that point is unwise. Ice didn't recommend running the 250AX2 into 4 ohms. But lots of manufacturers found out that they could get 4 ohms with proper heat management.
The 700 module at 2 ohms is the same story. If there is more attention to heat dissipation it should do it. I've run the 1000 module into 2.67---no problem--barely got warm. Into 2 ohms I could get it to thermal cycle. If I went nuts with heat dissipation it would probably be ok---but I truly feel that running any amp to that point is unwise. Ice didn't recommend running the 250AX2 into 4 ohms. But lots of manufacturers found out that they could get 4 ohms with proper heat management.
I think it would be great if there would be some sort of protection for the knobs.
Small handles on the sides or something like that....
I'm trying to get a really light rig but, Every time I split things up and play one gig, I immediately rack everything back up before the next gig. It's just more safe, clean and makes for a faster setup of you have it all in one rack. Of you are going to plug directly in and go, that's different. Really, why isn't there a rack case that is more manageable?
- Sep 3, 2006
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- Authorized dealer for Dingwall, Genzler, Phil Jones Bass, Cort, Traynor, Yorkville Sound
I have a rack rig. To me, the advantage of using a small & lightweight amp is to take it and go. A nice little case is handy, and the Plug & Go concept with these lightweight amps is fantastic and doesn't take me near as long to set up as taking my rack rig. A part of this is the lugging of the rack, a part is the over-complication (mine is) of everything I have in the rack. I don't know, I just don't see a lot of need in racking these lightweight amps. Get a floor tuner, plug in & play gets my attention these days. A custom case, on the other hand, similar in nature to the padded one that ships with the Traynor Darkhorse amp, would be absolutely great, IMO.
The minute you add a wireless of virtually any kind, and possibly a tuner, that means plugging 3 things in, and that means a power strip of some kind. That's it for me, must be in a rack. Small, light class-d amps, for me personally, are best for racking. The rack weight overall goes way down, and you don't need a deep rack anymore. I have a 3 space rack that I can open the front flap, open the back flap, plug ONE cord in, pull out one speaker cable, to cab, and I even put a 12" XLR cable with a giant DI on a label on the end, hanging out the back for the sound guy to see and use if I'm not around.
So first choice, actual rack ears. 2nd choice, a rack shelf. But either way, a MUST.
Now if someone really wants to do it right, make a rack shelf where the amp can easily slide in and out by the feet so when you do want just the amp, you don't have to spend more than a few seconds un plugging some cables. A quick release rack kit would be the best.
So first choice, actual rack ears. 2nd choice, a rack shelf. But either way, a MUST.
Now if someone really wants to do it right, make a rack shelf where the amp can easily slide in and out by the feet so when you do want just the amp, you don't have to spend more than a few seconds un plugging some cables. A quick release rack kit would be the best.
